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About FishFreq

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    Bass fishing, water & snow skiing, of course motorcycles, and generally 'loud shiny things that make noise and go fast!'
  1. Doc_d nailed it! Take all his advice to heart. I've owned all of the above except the new Ktm 350's, and for a guy your weight the 350 4 stroke will be perfect. Only thing I'd add is a Rekluse core auto clutch. Almost stall proof. Put that on my ktm 300 2 stroke and 250 4 stroke and it makes it SO easy. 300 2 stroke is a beast, don't recommend for starting out. 250 4 stroke would be easy, however in woods, altitude changes and your weight, an elect start fuel injected Ktm 350 would be #1. It's Ktm's best seller, so resale is strong too.
  2. I see your point since you already have a spare shock, however, that bbr spring is a beast, guys have said. Not many good spring options out there, I had to have one made by Cannon/Racecraft for my 150f. For my 230f I'm running an XR350 shock with extended resi hose - it's got comp/rebound adj but that Fox shock is the sh#t. I did the crf85 USD fork swap, kinda forces you to do something about the shock.
  3. Fyi, I took the spring off the stock crf shock and moved the back tire thru the entire susp travel range and the shock bottoms about 4" shy of hitting the fender. With the cr85 shock I get to use about 3" of that extra travel, and I'm guessing you'll gain close to the same with a Hagon or Fox shock. Just food for thought before you spend money on that stock shock. 3"-4" rear wheel travel increase is a huge opportunity for improvement, and seat high and steering are unchanged. The cr85 shock needs bottom clevis shortened simply by redrilling the hole 5/8 shorter to match stock shock length. If you wanna sharpen the steering, steepen fork angle, you could try drilling that hole 3/8 or 5/16 and raise the rear end. I went 1/2" so about 1/8" longer than stock. Kill two birds with one stone. Test for interference before drilling. What'd it take to make the IMS pegs fit? Something I've always wanted to upgrade but crummy aftermarket selection.
  4. Right, backfire can come from combustion mixture escaping out the exhaust port, via bad ring seal, before the piston has moved down to actually open the port. It would be running like crap already and would have weak compression at the kick start lever too. If the piston is as worn as it was, there are other things worn too...
  5. It's really hard to say, at that point. Crank seals are double lipped, you can have a seal leaks on compression and not so much on vacuum and visa versa. Something else weird could be wrong too, like say gas has been overflowing from the carb into a bad seal on your oil fill cap - I know that's a major stretch, but I'm just saying. Teardown required anyways if you're backfiring out the exhaust again... Oil in wet clutch bikes gets black quick because the drive plates are often aluminum instead of steel, and the alum rubs off black. Or it could be real old....
  6. You can spray carb cleaner at the dry flywheel side of the crank seal, but obviously you can't spray it at the clutch side under oil. Smell gas in ur oil?! That could be ur crank seal (clutch side) or your crank case halves.
  7. Sure, seizure like that can occur with overheating, but a cracked or damaged piston at the exhaust port side can also happen due to excessive piston/cylinder wall clearances that allows the piston to rock in the bore, and it can tip that leading edge into the exhaust port chamfer (beveled edge), and after a while of hammering, the piston will crumble there.
  8. On a two stroke with a proper exhaust/expansion chamber attached, if you're backfiring out the exhaust, that means combustion is escaping when it shouldn't. From the position of your first burned piston scar - exhaust port side, that makes sense. Now that it's 'backfiring' again means it's prob burned again. Teardown required.
  9. Well it sounds like it must have been very lean if 180 worked well from 150. Between that and detonation, timing, it could easily cook the exhaust side of the piston. So many factors, hard to arm chair it. Check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner at intake gaskets and carb junctions while idling, looking for an rpm change at the leak. You could still have an air leak at the crank seal behind the flywheel or the clutch basket side. It'd be sucking oil on the clutch side. From the looks of that piston, there are either a ton of hours on that engine or someone used a cheap premix oil. With that much carbon build up, it's not uncommon to see a ring sticking in the grove. Did you have your piston/cylinder wall clearances verified to make sure you're in spec and not needing an overbore?
  10. Just PM'ed you.
  11. Hey Yap Yap, Your big bore kit to take a 150f up to 230 or to take a 230 up to 250?
  12. I'm sorry Steve, did I miss something? You have a needle with clip positions...? I will check my petcock too, but I'm guessing that would result in a lean condition, my plug is black at the mid-throttle stutter speed.
  13. You got that right Rix! Payback is you can only straddle one bike at a time!!
  14. Lol, ...and what one guy hates, another guy marries! But bikes stay longer-term because they don't talk back, you can beat the hell out of them, barely take care of em, and they're happy to go wherever you lead...
  15. Hey Vortec, Nice to see you in the ttr side. Shimming only works if you want more fuel not less.