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About foggie

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    Aircooled RD's
    R1200GS LC
  1. I had a similar problem with an aftermarket Sargent seat with my R1200GS LC. The "Low" seat version is actually a lot wider especially at the front, so with the foot to the floor test I went from being on the balls of my feet with the standard seat to tip toes on the "Low" version. With the weight of the bike, the Sargent seat was unusable. I then had to have the front of the Sargent seat width reduced by a local Upholsterer, which makes the foot to the floor test with the "Low" Sargent the same as the standard seat!! I'm currently back on the standard seat but I have had the front of that seat narrowed and it's better. That's probably whats needed on your Seat Concepts, reduce the width of the seat at the front where it meets the tank.
  2. At the end of the day the bike has a steel frame and so is never going to be as light as a proper Enduro bike, it's a cheap trail bike and so has been built to a price.
  3. Do you have a link to the website?
  4. E-mail Jeroen at the address below. No duty to pay as it's within the EU. Mine worked out at about £210 inc postage to the Uk. He usually has them in stock and you will have it a day or two after ordering. jeroen@dynojetvdmeer.demon.nl http://www.dynojetvdmeer.nl/ There's also a fair bit of info on the Facebook CRF250L UK page.
  5. Can't be that difficult to drill, tap & retro fit a nipple?
  6. Sorry guys, yes, I have just downloaded the CRF parts diagram and it looks like the crank bearings are plain bearings. The rest of the bearings are roller bearings. My post is probably just a confusion and may be better deleted. Let me know and I will try and work out how to do it.
  7. I haven't done a crank swap on a CRF but have just finished it on an XR400 which is very similar with the balancer weights etc. I used a Tusk puller/installer. You can't get them in the UK so I had to buy from the states. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter-Separator-And-Crank-Puller-Installer-Tool-ATV-Motorcycle-/171722603239?hash=item27fb76fae7:g:9GgAAOSwxH1UJdus Note: on opening the crankcases: Normally if you are careful you should be able to split the cases, with one crank bearing staying in one side of the crankcases and then the crank stays in the other crankcase. You can open the cases and get them back together without crank bearing damage. HOWEVER, if you have to pull the crank from the crankcase then it puts loading on the outside of the bearing race and damages that bearing. It will need replacing. To pull the crank back in without loading and damaging the new bearing you need to use the Tusk type puller as it supports the centre bearing race. The difficult part of pulling the crank in is it's geared to the balancer weight, with the balancer weight having to be opposite the crank weight when it runs (so that it balances!). On the XR, the crank has a line-up position stamped on so that you can align it to the correct position in relation to the balancer weight (not sure on the CRF). However, you only have one shot at pulling the crank in and once you commit to pulling the crank in and the gear teeth mesh with the gear teeth on the balancer, you are commited to the position. On the XR (again, not sure on the CRF) there's a certain postion that you need to pull the crank in so that the crank weights miss the counter balancer weights. In this position the line-up position markers are hidden. whilst still on the bench, I lined the markers up and then carefully rotated the crank & counterbalancer making sure that the gears stayed meshed, and then marked both gears in several positions so that once I started actually pulling the crank in I could always get the alignment correct. Note the picture below is the XR400 line-up marker to show what I'm talking about, NOT CRF250L! Apologies for the multiple images, I was trying to work out how to rotate the photo and ended up with multiple photos in the post that I cant seem to delete..... .
  8. i have bought a KTM SXC250 Battery box which is big enough to fit a Shorai LFX09A2-BS12 12V 9Ah Lithium Battery in it. I'm then going to have a goe at making a battery bracket similar to the Boechat one that mount's inside the left sidepanel (Boechat don't sell any of this kit parts any longer: http://www.boechat.ch/fr/p4-4113.html
  9. Hi, I have just about got all the TRX parts for the XR E-start conversion including a TRX loom & CDI. I will hopefully get most of it done over christmas. My weak point will be the electrics. Can I ask that those of you have used the TRX loom, what needs modifing to fit it to the XR? Is it a case of just shortnening or extending the loom to fit the XR frame? Any photo's? Thanks in advance
  10. foggie

    Honda XR400R (2004)


  11. William1, I'm in the UK but with a US import bike (US Speedo). The UK & US speedo's whilst looking the same have differen't functions. I have the UK manual but not the US. The UK manual doesn't say anything about correction factors as this is locked on the UK speedo, so if anyone has a link to a US manual to show the setup that would be great, or a PDF of the page.
  12. I have an 2007 alloy frame WR250f with the digital speedo. The batteries died and on replacement the speedo's reading upto 198 mph! I'm guessing the speedo has lost the wheel size setting due to the dead battery. Does anyone have a WR250/450 that they could give me the correct setting number. You get to the setting mode by pressing "SLCT1" button and the "RTS" button for at least 2 seconds. Note: I don't think it's as simple as calculating the tyre circumference and keying that in. I have been told that Yamaha use weird calculation using a base 700mm setting..Not sure if that's correct! Cheers Gary
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