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mr_beat

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About mr_beat

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  1. It's mostly all skill and believing in yourself. You can be competitive on an older bike for sure! That being said, the reason you don't see many guys racing older bikes is because it's easier to keep a bike for a couple hundred hours and sell it. It would be a second full-time job performing continuous maintenance to the same race bike year over year and avoiding mechanicals the way you will with a newer bike.
  2. Nice! I made the same switch this spring from Yam. Love them both but faster on the Husky this year by far!! I did when new: Hour Meter Frame guards Bulletproof rad guards - Perfect rads @ 50 hours P3 pipe guard - Stil on stock pipe @ 50 hours Kept stock skid plate and got the obie link guard Probably should change out the tubes Bark Busters w/ new grips (used oem again) Cut Bars Good to go!
  3. mr_beat

    2015 TE300 4CS Clicker Settings

    Everyone likes their setup differently, but I have the same bike and I struggled for about 20 hours with my suspension. I'm 160lbs. I like my stuff soft and can win Overall B enduro events w/ my stock settings. I found that I had to turn my compression almost all the way out, 2-3 clicks in from all the way soft. My rebound is somewhere around 9-12 clicks from full in. Hope this helps, I found it solved my problems. I was having too much trouble getting the bike to absorb angled logs and trail trash in the North East, probably closer to what you are riding.
  4. mr_beat

    Re-cutting knobbies?

    Don't waste your money on the tread doctor. Spend the extra $10-$20 on the actual knobbie knife. Take 20 mins, hang out in the garage and have a beer while you cut your tire. There's little to no smell/smoke. Wear gloves when you do it. It's perfect for getting extra time out of your trail rides. I've even used it to cut a decent tire for a race.
  5. Stand on anything technnical( Rocks, uphills, downhills, Logs, etc.) Sit in the turns
  6. Just an update - The power valve was indeed sticking. When I took the top end off and opened it up, it was actually completely stuck open. It wasn't snapping back into place. So I had no bottom end and a 'tin sounding pipe.' I took apart and cleaned and put a new top end in. Runs Great!
  7. mr_beat

    TE vs XC differences

    Thanks I didn't realize that of all things the fork would be different?
  8. mr_beat

    TE vs XC differences

    Hi, forgive me for asking this. I've searched but I am not finding anything clear. I'm considering moving to a TE 250 or 300 or 250/300xc. Is there a list of definitive differences between them? I've seen a lot of conflicting info. I'm having a hard time finding any reason to get the Husky. I'm expecting the plastics are less-plentiful and more pricey. And I sort of hate to buy a bike that is changing identity anyhow. Any thoughts?
  9. Hi all - I had to replace the wet side crank seal on my 06YZ250. To do this, I had to disconnect the power valve linkage arm. When I re-assembled, I don't have the correct pin so I used a screw to hold the arm in place and tightened to spec. Then i removed the screw or makeshift pin in this case. Since I got the bike back together, it sounds a little bit different, more tinny. But I don't have the bottom end that I used to, and it's harder to get it into the power band. When its in the power band it runs great. But I've lost bottom. What could I have done wrong here? Anything? Perhaps its just gummed up and coincidence? Maybe it got gummed up when the crank seal went?
  10. mr_beat

    Need to replace linkage 06 Yz250

    I ended up running a bead of weld metal all the way around the lip of the race to draw the meta to the center and then they practically fell out. I'll use the press for the others. Thanks guys.
  11. mr_beat

    Need to replace linkage 06 Yz250

    Thanks! Both ends and both sides of the wishbone have lips? The manual doesn't specify
  12. mr_beat

    Need to replace linkage 06 Yz250

    Thanks the Arm - which piece is this? And is there just 1 lip or 1 lip on each side?
  13. I got the kit already, I just have to tear down the bike. I have a press. My question is, are there any 'blind' bearings that have a lip behind them? That I can't press all the way through and would need to Pull out?
  14. Has anyone tried the Fastway Fit system?
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