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About Rhinoracer

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  1. Coolant flow thru radiators is always from top to bottom, in at top, out at bottom.
  2. If your only concern for leaks or failure is the hole for the rim lock, why not put a second valve in there to plug it.
  3. I run a chain thru the frame between the footpeg and the shifter, same place as bumtarder.
  4. Kenda Parker front is a desert terrain tire. IRC rear ve33 will take a beating too. That, or I need to ride harder.
  5. I try not to buy tools for problems that can be solved with a BFH, I guess yours were rusted onto the frame and the heat-cool cycles with penetrating lube got them unstuck.
  6. 3 lb 7 oz for the complete kit.
  7. I can weigh the kicker kit for you. You need to find the weight of the electric starter.
  8. I think lithium took care of the potential weight savings of removing your lead battery. Replacing the starter with a solid steel kick lever + gear won't net you much. Do you know the weight of the starter? I can weight a kick start kit I have boxed.
  9. The stock rear rim is 2.15" wide, about 1.35" narrower than your proposed front. Not sure how it will affect handling.
  10. The master link is wider because of the clip like you said.
  11. There was a set on adv forum last week i believe.
  12. Set the chain length so you can run both gears, one at max and the other at min at the adjuster.
  13. If you step on the kickstand when you stand it can cause those symptoms.
  14. An adapter for the caliper and modify the steering stops. Not as complicated as it sounds. I once fit a YZF-R6 usd fork into a 1971 CB750.
  15. Easiest would be to find a lower triple that you can press fit your drz stem into directly. Next easiest would be to find a lower triple with a stem that you can turn down in a lathe to fit your steering bearings. Then find a set of forks with the proper length and revalve or respring. Then fab a couple of wheel spacers.