superdutyscaler

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About superdutyscaler

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Family, hunting, riding
  1. My 2003 Drz400e has never had one carb problem EVER. My 07 rmz450 on the other hand needs a new float valve ever season, thing always gets pitted and gets stuck! Chainsaws, mowers, lawn equipment and my boat all get 93 gas just like the bikes and marine sta-bil....what im saying is 90% of what i own doesn't have a problem and the other 10% does
  2. No i havent
  3. Really? Bike usually starts on 2nd or third kick
  4. Ill pull it apart again tomorrow, maybe i missed something. Whats a good start for mixture screw? All stock except UNI filter and im removing the snorkel also
  5. Im gonna order a new diaphragm anyways, 2012 to 2018 its well over due. Might as well do it on my daughters 08 drz125 also since its original
  6. Diaphragm looked ok, but that doesn't mean anything. All jets were removed, carb cleaned in parts washer. Blew out with air nozzle, cleaned with carb cleaner then air nozzled dry. Jets all had light through them
  7. Bought my son a used 2012 this pass summer, bike runs okish so i ripped the carb out tonight and cleaned it. Installed new plug (with proper gap) changed oil again and cleaned the UNI air filter. Bike fired right up (choke had to be on) idled fine and took throttle, turn choke off and bike dies. Fires right back up and dies again... only runs if i hold throttle lightly open. Drove around outside (38 degrees) wouldn't idle without choke and if i give her throttle she dies so i have to feather it to get full throttle. Also i turned idle screw all the way in and no help. Mixture screw was 2 turns out, then i went 1 1/4 turns out with no help...went 2.5 turns out again no help. Bone stock 2012 except UNI air filter... could i have a bad accelerator pump gaskets? Fuel hose was all chalky inside so i installed a new one i had also tonight before i reintalled cleaned carb
  8. If not I was thinking if your ok with it, mount the number plate and drill straight through it to the stock DRZ mounting points on the triple clamps. Use a nice button head metric screw and your good to go, no brackets to mess with
  9. No i have an E model and i left both S models in the dust. And its not hard to keep the front down, i simply move my weight up on the seat...my E has crushed a ton of atv's and dirtbikes over the years. Four strokes or two strokes didn't matter, I loved seeing people literally get so mad they wouldn't stop back at where we started, they just keep riding and their buddies would sit there with us dumb founded
  10. With that new chain you must install new sprockets also. I run steel front and back on all my bikes and they last for years with proper maintenance
  11. I bought the cheapest longest box wrench I could find locally a few years back. I lightly heated the box end of it and then straightened it out level. This way I can get the wrench in there without hitting the spokes or the sprocket teeth. I hold the bolt with a Allen key and use the wrench to break the nuts loose, then use a ratchet with Allen socket to remove the bolts
  12. FCR has no top end? I've raced two S model bikes on asphalt roads before....neither of them S models could touch my bike
  13. I have 1" risers under my bars so that's why they stick up past the number plate. Other than that its a simple install, piece of aluminum angle iron 1"x1". On bottom bolt to factory headlight housing point, then drill two holes in the angle for the RMZ number plate to slid into. On top a small piece of angle to the upper tree center mounting point, then drill and tap for the RMZ upper mounting point
  14. Well the black and red do not go up under the bars...looks like I'm gonna have to cut the loom off the wires and see where it goes and then discoinnect from there. While I'm at it I'm removing the wires for my red rear fender light that hasn't been on the bike since I bought it new