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About BurntTimber

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  1. E-line made a 200 watt stator for your bike, I've seen a couple come up on eBay but they don't go cheap and they're hard to find. Not sure what other options there are but I'd start there. Even if you find one that doesn't work you can always get it repaired. This engine has one, you can see the external stator where the ignition cover goes. http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?kw=E-line+stator&epp=24&pgn=1&isNewKw=true&cad=1&acimp=0&cmd=SREF&mfs=GOCLK&so=12&call=1
  2. Consider SKF seals when replacing them, do not go with the cheapo brands, you'll find yourself replacing them after a few rides. I don't have experience with the Pyramids that Joe recommended, but it's nice that they come with grease, I use Race Tech's grease and it really does make a difference in the feel after you've finished the job.
  3. Harder to pull my spark plug on the trail if I water it with my Clarke 3.2 (have to pull the top bolt to lift it), not sure what the gap is like on the IMS. I definitely don't worry about running out with the extra fuel. Just consider the extra weight if you revalve your forks. Clear tank is handy for those long rides too.
  4. Just an update, ran the TuBliss out in BC last weekend running 12PSI front and rear (high speed riding on log road switchbacks and some semi technical double track trail). Ended up blowing a flat on the front about an hour into the ride, didn't even notice until my buddy pointed it out. Was able to run another 3 hours on it like that, just avoided the square edge rocks and no bent rim. One thing we did notice, the guy I was riding with was running the same psi with an HD tube and we were doing some rock face step ups. When looking at the compression pics (suspension totally compressed in the rear with full weight against the rock face) his tire was still full wall height but you could see the tire compress with my setup. After he saw that he was sold on the setup. I've thrown slime in the front and rear since then as well as following the TuBliss instructions to reseat the tire, so we'll see how it runs the next ride at 8psi rear and 10 front.
  5. Or throw some cash and support to the RMDRA so they can work to get the bylaws changed (maybe even a little trail maintenance). There's a reason why McLean has dedicated mapped single track...
  6. Ouch, I'd be pissed if I showed up cash in hand and someone stood me up on a sale. Better make good use of her or that's going to be some bad voodoo. I keep looking for a reason to upgrade to something 10 years newer. Other than that nice red button I'm having troubles coming up with something.
  7. Just finished another rebuild on my woods weapon CR this winter so thought I'd share my latest on the '03 Honda CR250 (now 265). | What I did this winter | Eric Gorr More Low/Mid 265 Forks - Race Tech G2-R Gold Valve Shock - Race Tech G3-LD Shock Gold Valve Rebuilt clutch (replaced notched basket & plate maintenance) Myler reinforced rads & replacement of Devol Rad guards Built a second set of wheels for summer including another 18" rear, and TuBliss front and rear ProArmor Killswitch tether (for the winter spike protection/avoiding the meat grinder) | What else is on it | Trailtech Voyager GPS E-Line 200w external stator Cycra Probend handguards Unbreakable levers (cheap chinese CNC knockoffs) Keihin PWK A/S carb swap VForce 3 PC Airbox kit Clarke 3.2 Gallon Tank EBC 280mm front brake kit Goodridge front and rear extreme offroad brake lines ODI clamp grips Wiseco Forged Basket (I'd go Hinson Steel if I had to do it over) Rekluse Z-Start Pro & plates Acerbis DHH with LED bulbs (keeps me legal) T.M. Design Chain Guard D.I.D. O-Ring chain Sunstar Works Z Stainless Sprocket and MSR front (13/50) FMF Gnarly and the stocker exhaust (also have Q-Stealth but haven't got the jetting right with it yet) | What's Next | Scotts Steering Stabilizer Trailtech Extreme racing light Investigating the Smart Carb (hate the fitment of the PWK) Cleanest it'll look for the next 3 years I figure so might as well show it off... And with the mad max winter kit on
  8. I'm a fan for the Factory Effex Evo series, get them with the shrouds and air box graphics. I always get mine for $50 or less.
  9. Don't bother with the o/s unless you have the cash to do the lines at the same time. I couldn't be happier with the look, feel, and quality of my Fastway pegs BTW. Highly recommend for the price.
  10. Just get the part number from him, Wiseco makes 265 displacement pistons for the CR250R.
  11. Can you post that list of tires here? I've got a stock of Maxxis Maxxcross IT (rear) and Michelin M12 (front) so don't think I'll be buying more until next season.
  12. Installed them last night, initial setup added some steps but you guys were right, no more difficult than a conventional setup once you have the system in place. Will test the pressure when I get home, hopefully all thumbs up. What kind of terrain are you guys running 4psi on? We ride some extremely rocky stuff here in Alberta so I'm cautious to run that low (I've heard the TuBliss can get flats easy in the rocks).
  13. Yes, I'm Exactly, I've got 2x 18" wheels built out of OEM hubs now (one winter set and one summer). I just buy the Moose stainless spoke and hub, haven't dented one yet and I run 12 psi in the rear. In addition to having the extra sidewall allowing you to run a lower PSI, I've found the tires are quite a bit easier to change. For the cost, definitely a must have for every offroad CR250R.
  14. Yup, I'm just an idiot, didn't realize I could shift it, was checking things out late last night with a solvent fume filled garage. Thanks for the responses guys.
  15. I'm just prepping my wheels for the Tubliss install (2003 CR250). The instructions clearly outline that the 8mm inner tube hole and 11mm bead lock/tire valve hole should be on the outside of 4 spokes apart. When lining the Tubliss inner tube against the front rim however they're sitting 5 spokes apart. Anyone installed this before? Any issues with the 4 spoke instructions.
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