Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Blackheart

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Blackheart

    Oil question

    FOR THE MONEY...it's hard to beat something like Rotella 5w40. With shared-sump, wet-clutch, dirt-riding thumpers, true lab-sourced Synthetic oils are hard to get any measurable benefit from, as these are relatively dirty engines and are hard on oil. I change the oil frequently rather than try to squeeze extra miles out of relatively expensive oils.
  2. Blackheart

    Very Sad KLX 300 - advice needed

    I'm going to disagree with starting it and idling for 15 minutes. The rings bed-in best under higher forces...such as opened up throttle. I'd suggest looking up Moto-Tune Break In Technique. It's used by many, many people.
  3. If you are really looking for increased power, for less money, keep your stock exhaust, open it up a bit, and buy a Big Bore from Bill Blue. You'll have to rejet. But, power will be much more than what you'll get from a new exhaust system.
  4. Blackheart

    2012 klx 250 need more power!

    Sounds about right!
  5. Blackheart

    2012 klx 250 need more power!

    Take the lid off of the airbox, or, at least the snorkle. What are your re-jet settings? Next up: MORE CC'S...Bill Blue Big Bore. Best bang for the buck!
  6. Blackheart

    Very Sad KLX 300 - advice needed

    It's all doable by anyone that can follow directions, knows how to properly use a torque wrench, and can "buy it now" on ebay. I'd do it all myself and save about 50% of the total cost, as well as know it was done correctly the first time.
  7. If you still have any doubts, I'll pay shipping to have it sent to me. I'll run it in my KLX, do UOA's, and send you the results!
  8. The British army used to always stand in a straight line, and wore red. Sometimes stepping out of the line of convention isn't a bad thing to do.
  9. The BEST way to know when to change it is to do UOA's (Used Oil Analysis). Instead of that, as long as you change it every 1500-2000 miles, you should be well within it's capabilities to protect and lube the engine. Change your oil filter every OTHER time, or perhaps every THIRD time, if you are changing the oil at these short intervals. Remember, this is not a modern, Fuel Injected car engine, many of which can go 10,000 miles between oil changes. It's a dirty, carbed thumper with a shared sump, and it chews up oil much more quickly.
  10. Blackheart

    2009 KLX250S - Performance Mods

    The old: No replacement for displacement idea. It's the best 500.00 you'll spend on this bike regarding increasing power. Of course, I'd dump the overly small front fork valving and go with something else that will actually let the front absorb hard hits first, but, increasing engine output with a big bore would be right behind!
  11. Blackheart

    KLX300R Backfiring.

    Standard carb? What jets are in it? Fuel bowl height checked? Smog system intact or removed? Carb vents clear and not pinched? Black smoke out the exhaust when it backfires? Carb boots intact? Diaphragm intact? Slide moving freely? Any other symptoms?
  12. ALL OIL IS TOO THICK AT COLD STARTUP! A 0w-XX oil is usually a zero weight base, with additives that make it act like a 40 weight when it's at 100 degrees Centigrade. There are some that are a 5 or even a 10 weight, with PPD (Pour Point Depressants) that make it flow at the lower temps, as if it were a zero weight...but, that's not common. The only thing good about a 10W-40 compared to a 0w-40 is that usually a 0w-40 will shear quicker than a 10w-40. Exceptions are some true synthetics that naturally have the characteristics of BOTH a zero weight base at the cold temp range, as well as a 40 weight at 100 degrees. The way you phrased your question makes me think you've made a fairly common assumption that simply isn't true. The fact is: Multiviscosity oil weights are expressed in two numbers, and the first number refers to the lowest temperature at which the oil can be seen to flow at all. The lower the temp where the oil is noticed to flow, the lower that first number. The oil is THICK, THICK, THICK at those low temps...too thick to flow well enough to be pumped normally through the engine. So, again, at COLD startup, ALL OIL IS TOO THICK! As oil warms, it gets THINNER. A 40 weight is thicker than a 30 weight at 100 degrees...both will be thinner at 100 degrees than when at any lower temperature. Both a 30 and a 40 weight will be VERY MUCH THINNER when at 100 degrees than a Zero weight oil is when it's freezing. See what I mean? I hope this helps....
  13. Sure you can. Just don't go to long drain intervals. If I ran that oil more than 1000 miles, I'd send a sample out to an oil analysis lab to make sure it was maintaining it's stated viscosity. No matter if it is "full synthetic" or not, they still shear.
  14. Blackheart

    KLX300R Backfiring.

    Of course it's not normal. Yes, you need to find out what's wrong. Is there associated black smoke when it does it? Does the bike stumble first? If so, it's running rich. Check the air filter first. If it was filthy, clean it. Still doing it? Carb jetting is where I'd start next. I'd also change the plug. I'd seriously consider taking off the valve cover and check BOTH the timing as well as the valve clearances.
  15. Blackheart

    Got a steal of a deal

    Well, you might be the only one with a 60.00 FMF Q2! Good find...I hope it goes on well for you. Don't forget to rejet, if you don't already have an opened up exhaust on there....