BWB63

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BWB63 last won the day on September 17 2010

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About BWB63

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    Ukraine
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    Jesus is the Way, the Truth and He is Life
  1. Been sometime sense I have posted here. It took a while to remember at least one of my sign in names ;o) I can not remember which one this is......is this the one that hated "L's" or was for them? I still argue with myself but, not here LOL I was out with David Gray at Ocotillo Wells this Thanksgiving with the 680R and it ran as well as ever! I gave up on the CR500R just this year and sold it. I do remember the great green pickle dieing on it's first run at Goler! I left because the "L's" took over and the fun of getting an "L" rider riled till they would piss their pants got old. ;o) Thanks for inviting me to have a look for old times sake, Martinfan30!! http://www.facebook.com/borynack http://borynack.com/xr650r/
  2. Linked suspension! Not a post up your butt!
  3. You just need to ride faster then the sound!
  4. Glad to here you got it worked out! I wish I would take time and fix and update the web page. I'll have my wife call and find out what password I used so I can get back on the server and fix it. Sad but, true, I have not updated the sight for more then two years because I forgot the password. Still paying for it every month but, has old information by now. We took the CR500R/XR650R hybrid through a few more changes and fixed the rake issues and race sag issues. We have a better fork setup but, abandoned the latest inverted for project. The Duramax truck build from the frame up took all of our time lately Very happy with that We have sense put all the lighting and quite a few other things but, we haven't taken pictures of that yet. I got to show it off:goofy: I have a thread here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=942235
  5. I do not think I will be able to walk much by then I'll still ride! But, if I don't have someone to pick up my bike and set me on it, I will have to ride fire roads I had to stop racing so I can heal! I am getting surgery to fix a few things and then I will back in business. I went with a CR500R for my play bike and CR250R for the tight stuff and the XR680R for racing and the big group trail rides. I really want a TC510 or TE510! But, I just dropped an unreal amount on a few firearms this weekend so that ain't going to happen anytime soon.
  6. Hey email me! desertracebike@yahoo.com lets get on the phone and go through this step by step! Hard to stab at this......I am sure it is something to do with that cap and the rebound adjustment but, maybe a phone call and then we can go from there.
  7. So, is the "R" You can spend the time and money to make them very fun bikes and back in the day they could be made competitive but, now you can buy bikes that are so much better and as always money makes a huge difference. I still think the "R" fixed right is more reliable and will out last anything else out there but, that does not make up for it's weight. Just for an example would be when the CR450R's started to take the Baja crown away from the XR650R. The CR450R's were all but, thrown away after a race. There was little in the engine that did not need to be replaced or redone. Things keep getting better and batter leaving all the BRP's to be a middle aged weekend worrier bike Hey, I still have mine and I hope to build it into the ultimate trail bike for an old retired guy! 680cc bike for fires roads when I am 60 years old with a Cadillac suspension has it's place
  8. Yes, I have! Most of those number are on this thread. I know it is a long thread but, I have real dyno time with the XR6, XR650L and the XR650R, XR650L modified and XR680R, XR628R and some other combination. No conjecture but, real bikes and real district # 38, Score and Baja races. XR400R dyno and DRZ400E dyno. With hours and hour all of the above. Stock the "L" is just a very heavy XR400, "E" button and with more torque, it has been de-tuned to meet smog requirements and to use low grade fuel to the point of being stupid! Cam is worthless and the compression is pathetic! It is a good engine if you want an airhead and have the money to bring it back to life. I am not going to beat around the bush and say it is something it is not. It is a middle age mans bike trying to be all things and does nothing well, even if you spend the money to make it the way it was designed to be. You can spend less and have more with a DRZ and I am a Honda guy all the way. Just because you buy something does not make it the best there is or good at anything because you make it work. No conjecture but, real dyno facts with lots of hours on these bikes and many more. Read the thread and get back to us
  9. DRZ 400E with bolt on extra's gives 40rwhp and just uncorked is equal to the XR650L. Not the same torque but, rev's higher. Sorry but, the truth is the DRZ 400S converted to be a DRZ "E" is a better bike for a duel sport bike. Once you change the XR650L to be the bike it should have been it does way better on the street.
  10. I am one that loves the extreme difference of a pumpers bottom end response. NO lag and much smoother low end transition. More power, more fuel and the bike responds every time when you chop the throttle. If you ride hard and you are on, off and on again riding your fuel mileage will drop quiet a bit. If it is long runs with a constant throttle you may get better mileage due to the fact that your jetting will not have to be on the fat side that some run to make up a little for no pump. It is true that as long as you do have to or need to chop the throttle the stock carburetor works well but, it is a roll on thing and that does not always work when you drop into a wash and chop the throttle to lift the front end to climb the other side.
  11. Yes, I do not understand someone that says a well running XR650R will not loop the bike on it's own on a true roll on, with 14/48 gearing, in second gear. If I am coming off the throttle and then back on say around fifty in third a roll on will lift the tire on most XR650R's. Mine will around 70~80 in fourth but that is a different story.
  12. I always thought the ST1300 was the "L" of the bigger street bikes! I have the blue one but, I do not have an "L" anymore. I haven't for a long lone time. I have had a lot of "R" type liter bikes but, they get me in trouble I stay with "R" type dirt bikes instead
  13. 5mm seems to be the best for all around dirt use. Going SM it would be different but, a good place to start. Race sag and rake (27 degrees 111mm tail) will play a huge part in your suspension setup along with a more aggressive rebound control for a good SM setup. You want a little slower rebound to slow the release during the apex of a turn or when you transfer from one turn to another in quick succession. Rake This one's easy, but commonly confused. Draw an imaginary line through the steering stem down to the ground. Measure the angle between it and another (imaginary) vertical line through the axle and you'll have the rake angle. Sportbikes are generally around 24 degrees, while cruisers come in around 30-32 degrees and dirt bikes are close to 27 degrees. Typically, steeper rake makes for a quicker-steering and a less stable bike. At a maximum 90 degree rake with the forks parallel to the ground (0 degree castor), there would be no steering effort when you turned the bars (the wheel would just tilt to either side). Similarly, at 0 degrees rake, the steering effort would be instantaneous and impossible to control. Fork Offset Point the steering straight ahead, and look at the bike side-on. The perpendicular distance between a line through the center of the steering stem and the wheel spindle is the fork offset. Altering offset allows chassis designers to tweak the trail and rake figures independently of the wheelbase, for example. Weight Distribution Simply put, this tells you how the bike's weight is split between the front and rear wheels. If you sat a 400-pound bike on two identical sets of scales, on perfectly flat ground, and both scales read 200-pounds, you'd have a 50/50 weight distribution. Sportbikes generally have more weight through the front tire than the rear, and cruisers are typically the opposite. Dirt changes as the rider adjusts but, usually very far back for whoops. Trail Trail is the distance between an imaginary line drawn through the steering stem down to the ground, and a vertical line from axle to ground. In general, larger trail makes for a more stable steering bike because the self-centering forces created by the castor of the wheel have more leverage to operate.
  14. But, your "L's" are on steroids!