Jump to content

jon_l

Members
  • Content Count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jon_l

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario
  1. jon_l

    yamaha street legal?

    No such thing. Kick-start doesn't exist for street-legal Yamahas. 3 choices if e-start will be OK - WR250R/X, XT250, TW200 A DR-Z400S can be modified for reasonable cost to add kick start. Obviously not a Yamaha
  2. I used a Lowe's utility trailer for 3 or 4 years. It was approx. 4-1/2' x 6'. Was fine for firewood, mulch, or trash. Was not great for hauling bikes. I spent a bit of time installing tie-down rings, wheel chock, E-track, etc. Still wasn't the best for bikes. Lights were a constant issue, even though the first week I owned it (bought new), I enclosed all the exposed wiring in wire loom, and moved the axle from the delivery position to the normal more balanced position (took a couple hours, pissed me off to have to do this to a brand-new trailer, but Lowe's refused to do it). I eventually replaced the lights with submersible boat trailer lights, but still wasn't ideal. Water jugs in photo were for ballast, as the V-Strom was long and porky, and without them, there was not enough weight on the tongue. The 8' long version would have been a little better, but parking space was limited, and trailers tend to spend much more time parked than rolling. My Subaru pulled it just fine. 2 years ago I sold it and bought a used 3-rail trailer, and I am so much happier. I think the difference cost me $150 or so. Put some 6/4 oak planks down between the rails, so I have a place to walk, and so road crap doesn't bounce up onto the bikes. Ramp stays put too, which was an issue with the utility trailer. And knock on wood, I have had no lighting issues. A bike trailer is a much better solution for hauling bikes than a utility trailer.
  3. The stand is great for home tire changes. Saves the back (I'm old).
  4. jon_l

    DR650SE?

    I just sold my DR650SE and replaced it with a WR250R. For Interstate highway speeds, no question the 650 is better, but I don't miss it anywhere else. For highways where 100km/62PMH is a typical speed, the WRR does just fine. Off-pavement, the WRR is way easier for me to ride. 70 lbs makes a lot of difference.
  5. I love my Gaerne Oiled Balanced, super comfortable, waterproof, a bit less protection than the Sidis I looked at, but they are great to ride and to walk in.
  6. jon_l

    Yz be disguised as a WR?

    So you want to pass off a YZ450f as a WR250R? Who would give you a valid WRR VIN? What would happen if you got stopped and the officer checked your VIN against ownership & insurance slip? If you want a street-legal race-quality bike, you should find yourself a KTM EXC 350/450/500/525/530
  7. For what type of riding? For general riding, I love my Gaerne Oiled Balanced. Not MX-level protection, less than the Gaerne sg-12 or the Sidi Crossfire I think, but great boots and comfortable enough to walk a mile or 3 in. No visible wear after 1 season, so I hope to get many years from the. Waterproof, and supremely comfortable right out of the box. These boots: with these socks: Are an amazing combination (for me).
  8. Actually, the tool never touches the rim. That is one of the + features.
  9. jon_l

    dumb chain question

    Well I did lead with "dumb chain question", and I did note "Granted the front sprocket only pulls the chain and doesn't push, so maybe it doesn't matter if it is perfect" I figured it was a non-issue, only because i never saw it mentioned. Thanks for clearing it up. Glad I made you laugh!
  10. Even though I have replaced chains & sprockets without ever having a problem, I started thinking about this one night when I couldn't sleep, and now I can't work through it on my own. How does one get the chain on the rear sprocket such that there is the same slack on the top run as the bottom? I.e. from the horizontal center-line of the front sprocket to the opposite point on the rear sprocket, shouldn't there be the same # of links? Granted the front sprocket only pulls the chain and doesn't push, so maybe it doesn't matter if it is perfect? I'm thinking the way to insure the top and bottom runs are even is to pull the rear wheel back until both runs are tight, then forward to the correct amount of slack. No "how-to" I ever read mentions this at all. I can't figure out why I never thought of this before, and why if it matters, and I didn't do it correctly, it didn't cause some bad thing to happen. Help out a dummy, you guys. Thank you.
  11. You can't go wrong with the WR250R or DR-Z400 for a fun, low maintenance dual-sport. Play with the gearing to get more low RPM power from the WRR. Try a 12 T front to see how you like it (cheap & easy), then go with +3 to +6 rear sprocket. I have a 12 front with stock rear & chain, and like it a lot, but I am paranoid about the smaller sprocket moving the chain closer to the swingarm, so next chain-swap I'll go back to the 13 front and buy a longer chain and a larger rear sprocket.
  12. jon_l

    Help with WR250R purchase

    Price is good if condition is good, these bikes are few and far between around here. 1900 is low, but I just bought an 09 with 3400, so possible. Some good mods there, and the owner likely kept the removed AIS & flapper bits, in case you decided to re-install. Check the swingarm / seal guard for wear. http://wr250rforum.f...-eaten-by-chain
  13. When I asked about oiling the K&N foam pre-filter they sell, Jeff at Procycle said use the same K&N spray-on (red) oil on the pre-filter. He said it is much better filter oil than motor oil. Based on that, I would say, give away the K&N cleaner, and use the oil.
  14. jon_l

    Honda XR250

    I'm same age as you, and I won't buy a bike without e-start.
  15. jon_l

    Hoping for the CRF250L

    Comparo of specs here http://rickramsey.ne...0RvsCRF250L.htm from here: http://www.advrider....7&postcount=334 I like Red too, and as an inexpensive, low maintenance, street-legal, dual-sport the CRF250L has me hooked except for the weight, which is troubling at almost 20 lbs more than the Japanese competition (WR250R, KLX250S). Seat height is 2" lower than the WR250R, which is good for me with a 30" inseam. As noted above, I hope Kawi brings their FI version of the KLX250 here soon; presumably they'll eventually have to due to tightening emissions stds. Seems like it would be more efficient to eliminate the carb'd version anyway. Competition is good.
×