ban1216

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About ban1216

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  1. Yeah that is the cat and it is made of precious metals at the end of the wafery metal is a fllat plate with a hole that goes into a larger chamber if you want it easy drill out the rivets on that end and remove the end cap to get easy access then refit it took me about 3 hours of hammering and pulling with various different shaped things and to remove but it did all come out eventually
  2. All you need to do if you just want the cat out is remove the entry side of the can and pul the waffle /cat out of the first chamber can even be done without removing the end if you have the patience just with the use of a few long bolts and screwwdrivers and longnose pliers as it does break up relatively easily and can then be extracted from the inlet from memory it is only about 3 inches deep
  3. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=52974 try this link as there is some generaly helpful info on the site as well:thumbsup:
  4. No but to be honest they look pretty much the same as they did but i will post a link to another site that i found some detailed pics on that helped me out
  5. Well as the title suggests i have just completed the gutting of my standard 03cans to try and find where the power was hiding and now she will wheelie off the throttle the way God intended her to I cant believe how much crap is in there i removed the ends and shortened the cans and fitted a 2 inch perforated tube with good quality exhaust packing and gas tight rivets lovin the noise now and the power feels a lot better
  6. Just checked my chassis number and the it starts with zcgh701aa3123456 The 3 after the aa is the designated year of manufacture the last bit is made up lol
  7. If you ring husky sport in the uk they will id it from the chassis number for you as they did with mine
  8. That looks the mutts nuts mate who manufactures the larger tank as i am getting cheesed of with running out of petrol
  9. I had noticed that looking at the fcr 41 it does come in many different guises I should imagine that they can all be made to work though some seem to come with single throttle cables and others have twin and some seem to have loads of drain tubes coming off em and look like an octopus Thanks for the helpful input and i will deffo invest in aa jd jet kit
  10. Thanks for the info i was hoping it was a relatively straight forward retro fit Also looking at trying to improve the power on my 610sms by doing the same mod as it seems to feel a lot slower than my mates te even with the same size sprockets
  11. Right update on this problem after about an hour the problem reemerged and we decided to go down the drastic route today of fitting his carb and inlet rubber on my bike Much to our surprise my bike ran perfectly with it fitted so we investigated further and swapped his carb back onto his bike with my airbox and filter and we adjusted his valve clearances again(spot on)and we fitted my fuel tank on his bike only to find his bike still doing the rev limiter thing at about 1500 rpm Only last thing we havent tried now is the stator windings and fly wheel so will probably remove from my bike and fit onto his next week what do you guys think:banghead:
  12. can any body help with some knowledge about fitting this carb to a te 610 pre 2005 model Will the carb just slip in to the place of the standard or what work needs to be done to make it fit cheers from roy
  13. I would check the stator windings with a multimeter first to see if you get the correct readings (you will need to find out those from a manual ) If they are ok then it will more than likely be the cdi unit
  14. Bike started and ran fine this morning only to do a plug in this afternoon on the way home apparently so the problem seems to of been the brass parts of the carb being tarnished and not moving freely in the carb but i will keep this post updated just in case anybody has similar problems to help them out with it Thanks for the input from Quantum112 ,barrobuild, and gorgon .
  15. UPDATE POSSIBLY FIXED 190 jet 3rd slot standard new needle, emulsion tube, mixture screw removed choke mechanism and polished polished small valve on left of carb near top polished air bleed valve thingy on top of carb replaced oring on mixture and idle screws bike was warm but seems a lot better the big test is tommorow morning