Jump to content

NacsMXer

Members
  • Content count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About NacsMXer

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Quads, Motocross, Snowmobiling, Shooting
  1. NacsMXer

    What size bars?

    If I had to do it again I would have just gone with the 3 1/2" risers right off the bat. Mine are essentially 3" now, and I wouldn't mind a little extra height when standing, although they are perfect when seated. I'm 5'7" btw.
  2. NacsMXer

    What size bars?

    Yes, standard 7/8" bars. If you want to use risers, the riser will have to be 7/8" at the lower clamp area and whatever size bar you will be using on the top. I run the 2 inch Rox pivoting risers with +1 inch lock spacers added for more height. Bars I use the same bend as my MX quad which is cool, Fly Aerotapered snowmobile mini bends. The bars themselves have good height but not as much as the stock kiddie bars so I added the lock spacers.
  3. NacsMXer

    Idiot here, needs some explaining

    Ok first go to Radio Shack and pick up a bag of their "Steel Flat Washers (100)". Cat. No: 64-3022A It's a lot of washers, but only 2-3 bucks if I remember. Now unscrew the top cap of the carb and remove the slide. If you look down the slide you will see a spring and the throttle cable running through it. Pull the spring up and hold the tension with one hand while you remove the throttle cable from the notch in the slide. Once the cable is free, you will see the stock needle sitting at the very bottom of the slide. Use needle nose pliers or something to remove the needle. Now take the second smallest washer there is in the bag, and place it under the stock needle clip. Reinstall the needle and reassemble.
  4. NacsMXer

    KLX110 - easy intake mod for more midrange power!

    I just finished this mod and it does work. The bike does have a bit more hit off the bottom and midrange. It definitely wheelies better and didn't run any different in a bad way. No jetting changes were needed. I went to the dealer and bought 1 insulator @ $2.00 and 1 gasket @ $1.90. I stopped at the hardware store on the way home and purchased bolts that were longer than the stock bolts by the thickness of the new spacer and gasket. M6x35 bolts weren't much longer than stock. M6x40 bolts were a hair longer, so I went with them instead. I was worried the longer bolts might bottom out, but they work just fine. After everything was tightened up, I sprayed brakleen around the insulators with the engine running and there were no leaks. Overall not a bad mod for under $5! Looks like it should make valve adjustments a bit easier as well since it moves the carb upward a bit. Part numbers for those that want to try this mod
  5. NacsMXer

    '05 KLX110 cheap mods

    Even if you install longer bolts you can still rip the mounting bosses themselves from the case. It's best to install a cradle. I went with the HRC cradle from Tbolt USA just for the peace of mind of avoiding this headache in the future.
  6. NacsMXer

    KLX110 - easy intake mod for more midrange power!

    Any jetting changes needed to do this? No bogs or other adverse engine behavior changes with this mod alone? Thanks for sharing the tip!
  7. NacsMXer

    Looking for more "snap"

    Yep, but intentionally. And still had huge gains over stock. My bike doesn't see much top end, mostly low end torque riding. Plus i'm pretty sure drilling the washer hurts you on the low end a bit but helps in the top end. I also like the stock exhaust for the stealth factor. Runs clean.
  8. NacsMXer

    Looking for more "snap"

    I just uncorked my completely stock 2005 KLX110 with fantastic results for very little money. Throttle response is way better, bike has more power, starts easier, doesn't bog out anymore etc. All for very little money. First I unbolted the airbox and removed the snorkel from the air inlet. It's a small rubber 90 degree piece and it pulls right out. Next I replaced the stock air filter with a Twin Air foam filter ($10). Then I took the carb off for the first time and replaced the stock 38 pilot and 80 main with a 40 pilot and 85 main jets. I then went to Radioshack and bought their "steel flat washers" kit (part # 64-3022A) for $2. You need the second smallest #4 washer in the kit. Take the stock needle out of the slide and place the #4 washer under it. Reinstall the carb and set the air screw to 1.75 turns out. Reset the idle if you have to, I didn't. You now have uncorked your bike and have a ton more power/snap that you were looking for. All for less than $25!
  9. NacsMXer

    Change jetting for more aggressive cam?

    Ok thanks. Oh and this is in an EX btw.
  10. NacsMXer

    Change jetting for more aggressive cam?

    How do you like the stage 3 cam? I was also wondering about the piston to valve clearance going to a higher lift cam. Surely I should be ok going to the stage 3 cam right? I mean its only .008" and .015" more lift than the HRC cam. Anything to worry about or am I thinking too hard about it? Nothing has been decked, stock gaskets, etc. Hotcams website scared me when they say the stage 3 is for use with the Hotrods 440 stroker kit only. But I see many others running it without that kit. And this is a GT Thunder stroker kit. The crank is stroked 7mm out over stock and it utilizes a custom short skirt 87mm (416 bore) JE piston with a relocated wrist pin hole. It's a runner for sure, mad torque.
  11. Ok to start out, I have a TRX/XR400 motor with a 458 stroker kit (87mm piston and a +7mm stroke). I currently have an XR400 genuine Honda HRC cam in it. I would like to switch to a slightly more aggressive Hotcam Stage 3 "stroker cam". Here are the specs for the two cams HRC cam: Intake lift - .350 Exhaust lift - .339 Intake duration - 254 Exhaust duration - 256 Hotcams Stage 3 stroker cam: Intake lift - .358 Exhaust lift - .354 Intake duration - 262 Exhaust duration - 257 So with .008" more lift on the intake and .015" on the exhaust, coupled with a little more duration would I need to jet it a tad richer than before? I'm running an aftermarket (Sudco type) Keihin FCR 39. Thanks for your help!
  12. NacsMXer

    Proper way of installing Cam Chain Tensioner?

    Thanks a lot guys!
  13. When bolting the cam chain tensioner to the XR400 motor, what is the proper procedure? The way I understand it is you need to first retract the plunger and keep it retracted until you install the 2 bolts for the tensioner. Then do you slowly unwind the plunger or do you simply pull out the screwdriver and let the plunger spring out on its own? Also, when lining the T mark up with the notch in the sight hole do you line up the mark as per Figure 1 or Figure 2 in my crappy paint pic? I have always done it like Figure 1, but would just like to be sure. Figure 2 depicts the "letter T" in the center of the sight hole. Thanks.
  14. NacsMXer

    Red or Blue Loctite for Cam Bolts?

    Thanks a lot guys! I ended up going with some Loctite blue (242 which is medium strength). I cleaned the threads on the bolts and sprocket flange thoroughly several times with Brakleen and compressed air before I applied the blue Loctite. Yup, I did compare the blue/red specs before I bought it and I did note that they both have the same temperature rating. Just red takes more torque to remove and is labeled as "permanent" requires heat to remove. The blue was labeled as "removable", removed with hand tools. Torqued everything to spec...14 ft lbs, should be good to go. Thanks again for the replies!
  15. Which one is the best to use for the cam sprocket bolts? Will Blue run the risk of backing out once the motor gets good and hot? Is Red overkill for this application? Thanks!
×