tasaman

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About tasaman

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    Tennessee
  1. Wasn't Dick Burlson only like 5'7"? Or was that Jeff Fredette? He rode the hell out of the KDX. And stick with the 200 not the 220. Several reasons all can be sourced online. Bottom line...The 200 is faster. Just like the KTM you can get a short seat for the KDX.
  2. Since you have KTM already in the family I would suggest either the 85xc or 150xc. Another good option is a KDX200 Kawasaki. These are all woods or trail oriented bikes and are relatively easy to ride. A MX option might also be the KTM 105 or Kawasaki KX100. If you decide to go with a MX bike keep in mind you can tame down the power with a fly wheel weight like Steahly and a pipe that will make power where you want it. Without the fly wheel weight the bikes will feel more like the 200xc you felt like it had too much power.
  3. I assumed this to be the case but they actually list several models for each year. And the prices are sometimes different. I do know that the RM 1990 is a L model. I just could not see why they would list the others as replacement parts when for instance the cylinders are completely different. Pistons are interchangeable but not the cylinders. Oh well. I guess I will just order and cross my fingers.
  4. Can anyone answer this? I would like to know what is going on with all the different part numbers and models so when I buy something I get what I need and don't need to re-order.
  5. I've been looking for some similar info. I have a 90 and there seems to be 3 different cylinders for the same model year. Models K, L, and M. Make sure you get the right now bud.
  6. While shopping online for parts for a newly acquired 2004 JR 80 and a longtime project 1990 RM 125 I am noticing several different models of the same part within the same model year. I will include a few of them below separately as I suspect there are different reasons for each. My assumption for plastics is color and destination country differences. For engine I am leaning to either problems arising from design such as overheating or cracking in the cylinder or head or newly discovered performance improvements. To help see what I am talking about I will include a link to the pages. If you can help me discern the differences I hope to make a informed decision on my purchases. Thanks guys. 2004 JR 80 number plate and front fender - models K1, K2, K3, and K4 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/2004/JR80/FRONT+FENDER/parts.html RM 125 cylinder - Model K, Model L and Model M (was able to find one difference in the head/cylinder. One uses a o-ring and one uses a stamped metal head gasket) http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1990/RM125M/parts.html
  7. I got some time today to work on the RM and first thing I did was an inventory of what I see and can't find. I have not throttle cable I think the one that was on it was broken so I trash canned it. The clutch perch is cracked at the screw hole and the clutch lever I purchased doesn't fit the perch. Will be getting new assembly for that. Next I pulled the reed cage and they were not anywhere close to sealing. Already had the Boysen replacements ready to go on so in they went. Much better. Lays flat and looks to be good now. And then I put the compression gauge to it. My fears and suspicions were confirmed. Will need to tear down. PSI is only 30 after 15 kicks and never gets any higher. I recon that's a bit on the low side. haha Was pricing how much top end kits are and it seems about $130 for piston, rings, gaskets. So if I want to do this it looks like a minimum of 150 in parts. I will pull the cylinder jug to find out how bad it is and if it needs honed or bore and hone I will find out. Was pricing labor on Eric Gorr's site and could be anywhere from $20 to 150. Hope it doesn't come to that. Going to work a day overtime this week and next and as long as I don't have any issues I might be able to afford this.
  8. Thanks dbart250. Yesterday I picked up some oil along with some grips and a ratio rite cup. Was there to pic up some levers and grips for the PW anyways. I already picked up a ebay clymer. Also picked up a compression gauge. It's about time I've had one. Going to put this to use later today and see what condition things might be in without having to do a tear down. First need to find out what range the pressure should be. This makes the first steps getting this bike up ready since 2004.
  9. Fellas this is my first post and here it goes. I acquired a 90 RM125 that the owner said "it stopped running". Yee haw let the fun begin. I began by cleaning the exterior briefly and then buying a few of the obvious parts that needed replacing. Clutch lever, front and rear fenders, tubes, FMF Gnarly pipe and silencer, etc. Well you know that stock pipe needed replacing come on! Also have some other parts I picked up like some reeds, and clutch pack and some other odds and ends. When I find it all I'll list what I have missed. I was on track to get this done and the bam...I found myself in Iraq, then back a while, then back in Iraq, then back a year and finally Afghanistan. I got out about 3 years ago and now I realize I have done nothing to get this thing back to the dirt. My questions are the following. I have limited tools and limited funds but want this thing up and running so I can join the kids riding instead of watching. I tore down the carb and cleaned it out real well. Everything seems fine in there. So now what? What needs attention after sitting for at about 10 years? Should I tear down wheels to clean out old grease and re lube. Also same question for shock linkages and head bearings? What about the radiators? flush or top off? What did I miss? The brake lines and other cables all seem ok. Wheels are round and spin freely. Chain and sprockets look in remarkably good condition just very oily. Tires will have to do until I find out condition of the engine. I don't want to tear down the thing unless I can't get it running....limited funds mean just that. If I have to have it bored and replace pistion it will have to wait till next year. As for the suspension the shock that is on it is blown that I can tell. No rebound dampening at all. It's like a pogo stick! I bought a used replacement and it seems fine. The forks will be last thing I will put money into if this thing runs good when done. That I will put some money into and get them done by a shop. I know the seals will prob need replacing and I want to have them set up for 200lb guy although that is my target weight not current. This will not be a race bike. Just something to get this 41 year old out with the kids. I am going to shoot a video of current state before going any further and post it. Hopefully it's not a basket case in hiding and I can do this all on my own with some help from the midgets...ages 6, 8, and 9. It's been a while since I have done any work on bikes other than the PW50 we have.Wish me luck I think I will need it and maybe a prayer too. Ed