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About Gary_01YZ250

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  1. Is changing the seals easy? I can rebuild a two stroke engine but i have never messed with forks before.
  2. I also noticed the forks rest at different levels. The left one is much shorter.
  3. I just got this bike. I added the angle values to the air forks for easier acces and bought the high speed over priced hand pump. I noticed one fork loses air and wont keep a constant psi. Does this mean a bad seal? Thanks for any replies.
  4. Does anyone know if you can fit the 2002 YZ 250 tank on a 2001 YZ 250 Frame? I noticed Zip Ty tanks stop at 2002 and now I want one. Thanks
  5. My 2001 YZ250 locked up on me last season. The kick start wont move. I am about the brake the case open and see what happened. While pricing out a new bottom ends (original still in bike) I noticed you can buy the wide ratio transmission gears for the YZ250X and stick it in a YZ250. It cost about $350. Is it worth it? The bike is currently setup for a mix of motocross and trails riding suspension-wise and it has a FMF Gnarly pipe and VForce reeds. Still stock sprocket and chain sizes.
  6. Update: A few people on my post recommend running a lighter gear oil. I may try that first.
  7. I have the same problem on a 02 RM125. I have replaced the cable (thought it was stretched), the lever (it broke when dropped), and installed a new clutch kit (the springs may have been weak). I have this all detailed on another thread. I hope to take it into a mechnic I trust this weekend and see what they say.
  8. screamer294 I will be taking my bike into a repair shop here in Michigan and I will let you know what they did and what it cost. It probably wont happen until next weekend. My nephew rides this bike and we did an endure last weekend and he couldn't keep it from stalling on the hills. It was a long race.
  9. I made every adjustment that can be made on the cable and at the lever.
  10. I have a 2002 Suzuki RM125. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch still drags and grabs. It makes it impossible to start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. I bought the bike used and it exhibited this condition since the beginning. I have: 1) Replaced the clutch lever (Moose Shorty Lever) 2) Replaced the clutch cable with a pro motion bike specific cable. 3) Replaced the clutch plates (friction and steel) and springs. EBG Clutch Kit. To my understanding, there should be slight play in the lever (3/4" max), then it should disengage the clutch for shifting with about 1/4" movement. Thanks for your time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I have seen both front and rear plastics on XRsOnly. Not sure of the quality overall, but they advertise Maier plastics.
  12. Hey all, since this seems the thread for it, I just bought two basket cases. One is a 1983 Honda XR200 and the other is a 1990 Honda XR200. They only cost me $350. The previous owners were really clueless, I hate when people paint plastic. It never looks good. I plan both bikes as my winter project this year. The idea is to keep the motors as stock as possible and dual sport both bikes. I plan to use them for tight wood rides here in Michigan. I already have Two strokes when I need to go fast. I also have a back end from a 1987 CR125 that I want to swap on my other XR which is a 1987 XR200. I really don't like the 17" tires and the swap parts came cheap. One quick question, does anyone powercoat engines?
  13. I have powerwashed my bikes without an issue. Considering what needs to be done, I would wash the hell out of the thing. One good soak shouldn't cuase any issues in my opinion. The problem with powerwasher is it can force water into places it shouldn't go, like electronics. One good wash should do more good then harm.
  14. My 87 XR 200 rear brake has stopped locking up the rear tire. I checked the pads and they look great, but the inside drum seems worn and has two grooves craved into it. I attempted adjusting the pull of the lever on the drum without making any improvement to performace. I added two new pads with no improvement either. I really don't like the scissor action of this drum design. Do you have to replace the entire hub to fix this issue? Is there any off the shelf coversion to disk brakes or bolt on suggestions? Thanks for reading.
  15. I tried that but is sits too far inside the casing. I stuck a screw driver in the oil fill hole to hold it still when I loosened them, but that interferes with the plates when tighting them. I may just put it in gear and have a friend hold the rear tire, but I would like to know the proper method before I try something that moght not work and be stuck in the woods with a broken bike.