• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About scrmn

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Hampshire
  1. I may have missed it but how did you secure the plexi glass to the back side of the number plate? I am looking for ideas as to how to do it with out drilling holes through the plate. Nice post. Thanks
  2. ArcticCat

  3. ArcticCat

    Is there a cross reference for an automotive oil filter for a 2001 Arctic Cat 400I ATV?
  4. Do i need a battery when using a reg. / rect.? Is it just there so the lights will turn on with the key for inspection purposes? I am now thinking to make things easier i should just use a regulator/rectifier but am not sure if i have to connect a battery to it. Can i just terminate the battery ends with some shrink tubing?
  5. Woops i left out that i have a 97 XR400. N.H. does not require the light to stay on with just the key. I have a bicycle horn on it now and it passes inspection. Now that i have a rewound stator i would like to up grade to an electric horn. The Head light is stock but i am looking to up grade to something like the Acerbis cyclops in the near future. Can i run a Acerbis led tail light off from AC or do i need to change to DC? If i can get away from having a battery that would be nice.(one less thing to tend to) I may be in the same boat as you as far as changing over to DC is concerned.
  6. Can any one provide me with some direction for hooking up my single output rewound stator (wiring diagram). Here are some guide lines i would like to follow unless convinced otherwise: 1. no battery 2. no turn signals (not needed in NH) 3. Head light, horn, LED tail/brake light Should i change over to D.C.? Larger Regulator? I did a search but didn't find what i was looking for. If there is a post out there please direct me to it. Thanks
  7. That's great that you have some time to do some shoping around. Im sure some thing will come your way. I stated this earlier but had no responces so i will try one last time. Is it worth my time and effort to try and sell my old shock? I damaged the rod taking the nut off the end so every thing else is in great shape.
  8. I priced out a shock rod at $200. Another $50 or so for rebuilding it. I figured for an extra $50 was reasonable. I have found shocks around for $200 but same thing here, after rebuilding it you are at around $250+. The one i got wont require rebuilding it. It better not require rebuilding. Some may feel i got screwed but at least i can now ride my bike.
  9. I managed to buy a new one on ebay cheep. Thanks for the help.
  10. The part numbers for a 1998 to 2004 shock are the same. I managed to get some measurements from a 2001 xr400 shock. The 2001 shock had the same measurement as my 1997 shock. This tells me that any shock from an xr400 years ranging 1997-2004 will fit. (I didn't look up the 1996 shock.) I managed to score a shock and spring on ebay for $300 with only 6 miles on it. Lets hope so. On a side note, does any one think it is worth selling my old shock for a parts shock? If so what would be a good starting price. (for ebay) Every thing except the shock rod is in good shape.
  11. I have been looking on here trying to determine what rear shocks will fit different model year XR's. I see this question asked quite offten but never see a real answer. Sticking to XR's only what model years will fit other XR's? Example: Will a 2001 XR400 shock fit on a 97 XR400? If there is a thread out there covering this please direct me to it. Thanks Mike
  12. Will a 2001 shock fit my 1997 bike? What years will not fit my bike?
  13. I took my rear shock apart in my 97 xr400. Following the manual as to rebuild it. The manual says there are welds on the threaded end of the shock rod. I didn't see any welds so i assumed the nut would spin off. Then nut came loose very easly and i was able to spin it off with little trouble. After i got it off i found that the last 3 or so threads had broke off exposing the valve peice inside the rod. Now i have to replace the rod but the local shop says it is no longer made. Grrrrrr Here on TT the rod costs $183. Ouch. I have been looking for another used stock shock or an after market one but have had no luck Any suggestions for a reasonable aftermarket one or know some one who is looking to sell one? Thanks Sincerly; Mike
  14. Today i went down to the local bike shop and asked them if they could get the bolt out. The said they would try. As they were doing so i watched. To my amaizement they got it out free of charge. Here is what they did: One tech person pulled on the fork tube while the other held the fork slider housing and operated a butterfly impact gun at the same time. A couple pulls of the trigger and out came the bolt. I asked them how it was that it came out and they said that by pulling out on the fork tube gave enough preload (friction)to the bolt. They said i could do the similar thing by putting back in the fork spring and cap. Oh yeah, they didn't even use any special fork tool to hold the other end of the fork damper. After taking the fork apart i found out what was spinning, preventing me from taking the unit apart using the special holding tool. The two slots that the tool engauge into is only a small peice of metal that is press fitted into the end of the fork damper. Obviously there isn't enough of a press fit to prevent it from spinning while trying to remove the center bolt with out an impact gun??? Hope this helps.
  15. When I engage the tool into the notches and rotate it while holding the fork housing i can see the center bolt rotate as well. When i use an impact gun to try and loosen it i can feel resistance on the tool but the bolt dosn't unthread. Thats why i think the pressed joint between the internal tube and the piston on that same tube is spinning not allowing me to loosen the center bolt. Almost like some one used high temp lock tite on the threads. When i get home tonight i will take some pictures to help explain what i mean.