• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

336 Excellent

About Doc_speeder

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Well, running your bike overly rich won't do it any favors either. You will build up more carbon deposits as well as risk gumming up your ring grooves which can cause blow by and loss of compression. Jetting correctly will get you more consistent throttle response and make the bike easier to ride, even though you will have more available power. Jetting TOO lean will hurt your engine, but it sounds like you are a long way from that to me. A properly jetted crisp running big bore 2 stroke is a thing of beauty to listen to. It brings a smile to my face and tear to my eye lol.
  2. I'm no expert, and I know you weren't really ON IT, but it sounds like your jetting is rich enough to be leaving significant power on the table.
  3. I know every bike can jet a bit differently...but that seems really lean. Any chance your float is too high? What altitude are you running at?
  4. Lol. Thanks for sharing. We've all been there in one way or another!
  5. You're backwards on your screw adjustment idea. 4 strokes have a fuel screw. Screw it out for richer. 2 strokes have an air screw. Left is lean. Turn it in for richer.
  6. So, you feel 20,000 km on a small single cylinder 2 stroke is not acceptable? At an average of 50 km/h, which seems unlikely for urban use, that is 400 hours... and at 40 km/h it's 500 hours. I think that's pretty damn good. How long should they last?
  7. Are you sure it's not just leaking from the water pump and running down under?
  8. Please read my post more carefully. My problem is fixed and has been for 2 years. My question was about specified float height. My bike runs clean with minimal sponge.
  9. Depending what oil you use, it could maybe be goo from your power valve vent tube? Do you have any pictures of it?
  10. I know this is a touchy topic, but my 250X works very well with an FMF Gnarly. Increased the bottom end lug power significantly. At first I noticed a little earlier sign-off on top, but after doing the power valve shim mod (free and easy mod) switching to the "Suzuki" needles and leaning out the top end a bit more, it freeking revs. It's got - by far - the widest useable power spread of any two stroke I've ridden. Period. End of story. It is just as good on a slow off-road trail as it is at the MX track. It doesn't pull down low quite like a KTM 300, but it is very close to the KTM 250. However it revs out much higher and cleaner than any of the KTM's I've ridden. Plus, it has a "playful" character that makes KTM's feel rather agricultural. I know first hand from drag and dune hill climb races it will run and hide from a 2011 KTM300xc with a fresh build and jetted quite well. When I do my top end, I'm going to try a thinner base gasket. I think between the slight boost in compression and slight lowering of the ports, it will move the whole powerband down a bit. Cheap experiment anyway. I've found this motor responds very well to SMALL changes, and that they really add up.
  11. When I want to drain mine, I shut off the petcock and let it run for a bit on the stand, then stuff a couple blue shop towels under the drain plug and let it drain. All the fuel gets soaked up and prevents the mess. There's not much in there if you let the bike run for a bit first.
  12. If you run it out while riding very slowly or idling, it won't likely won't hurt your engine as there is a decent oil film on all the moving parts. However, as stated, it doesn't really accomplish your goal. Using the drain screw is a better idea.
  13. So when I got my 2016 250X new, it was impossible to jet and fouled several plugs in the first few hours and just wouldn't run clean. It was a sputtering spooging disaster. I checked the float height and even without measuring it looked high. I bent the tab and dropped it (dropped fuel level, raised float bla bla bla). Didn't measure it, but immediately my symptoms were gone and my bike became tuneable with jetting. So that was 70 hours ago... Today I took my carb off and actually measured the float height as described in the service manual. It's a bit more than 8mm. Specified height is 6.5mm. In general, my bike runs pretty clean and freakin rips, but occasionally, like when descending steep hills, it still exhibits traits of a too high fuel level in the bowl. I wonder what's up with this? Is it possible that this is like the oil level plug for the gearbox? At some point, the design changed and the manual wasn't updated? Anybody else experience this? It's not a problem, I've always believed in tuning float level by "feel", not strictly by measurement, but it's strange that the specified measurement would cause the bike to run like crap...
  14. It really depends on available traction, specific gear ratios, and engine power characteristics. Practice practice practice. Experiment, don't be afraid to let it rev, they're built for it.
  15. Yes, very good observation about taking risk without actually gambling. Regarding squeezing with my legs and feet--I guess I overlooked that because that is something that I've just always done whether on the track or off road. Good point to mention as it really helps with keeping your arms and hands relaxed. I was trying to get some good go pro footage but my battery was dead and I forgot my spare. Next time I go I'll try to put up some video.