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bcs

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About bcs

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    California
  1. bcs

    whoops did it again!

    you are also dealing with the problem of the vacuum slide carburetor. Not sure what carb you have, but most of the street model DRZs have a vacuum slide. that means there is not a direct connection between the throttle cable and the slide, as you normally have on a dirt bike carb. Instead, engine vacuum actually pulls the slide up. When you get into the whoops, the severe up and down motion can actually cause the slide to move up or down, which interferes with performance. the only fix is replace the carb with a non vaccum slide carb, like the Keihen FCR that is so popular here.
  2. i have the MSR "trans jak". It is very poorly made, not at all windproof, and the zippers don't operate well. Ready to trade on something better quality. Definitely a case of get what you pay for!!
  3. Overall layout of the bars now. I just switched to the pro tapers recently, so I had to re-arrange things. I no longer have a cross-bar on which to mount the roll chart. You can see that combining the start and kill switches frees up room on the right for the roll chart. Still want to work on a better mount for the chart. Close-up of the combined switch. Not sure why I made the label--I guess it only benefits the guy who tries to steal it (or me, if I have a lapse of memory). Note that when you order the switch you can specifiy whether you want red, black, one of each, etc. I used lots of heat shrink and a dab of silicone to armor / waterproof the switch and wires. For Kurt, here is the solution to the interference between the turn signal switch and the hot start lever. Just a couple bucks at the hardware store: Custom turn signal brackets from a flat piece of aluminum stock (Home Depot): After 3 days dual sporting in the Sierras last week, my only complaint is the roll chart is too low--have to look down too far to read it. Any suggestions on a better mount? Not shown is the GPS (you can see the ball for the RAM mount on the right side). I use the short 1-1/2" arm and it sits just right--not too high.
  4. Hey Kurt, I have the same setup on my 2006 for three years now. It has worked well. I also got the same great customer service from Dale. Only problems are the turn signals. The brackets he gives you for the front are flimsy. I tossed em and made my own from a flat piece of aluminum stock--just shaped and 3 holes (2 for the pinch bolts and one for the signal). Its much sturdier and fits closer in. The lenses on the rear turn signal break repeatedly. The main problem is that they are designed to mount to a flat surface, but the fender is slightly curved. If you tighten the screws, the lenses break, and if you back off, the screws fall out. It will be a constant annoyance. One suggestion--I took a trip to my hardware store and bought some small stainless steel spacers and longer allen bolts for the hot start lever. Raising it about 5mm makes it clear the handlebar switch and it looks very sano. One more--just recently I decided there was too much clutter on the bars, so I went to highway dirt bikes and bought one of these: http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=BrakePerSw_2 I ordered a silver (not black finish) one with momentary contact switches and installed it on the brake side. This eliminated the separate kill switch on the clutch side. It is smaller than the stock e-start switch so it gives you more room to adjust lever position, etc. Looks trick, too.
  5. bcs

    Clutch Switch

    Bump. Anybody? I got the same question, mine fell out this weekend and when I try to re-insert it in the perch, it seems to be missing some clip to hold it in.
  6. bcs

    Cycra hand guard problem

    Oh what a difference the correct part makes. The guys at the shop set me up with the right U-clamp today. Now it fits together the way it should, without any bending, cutting, etc. Looks like this: For those of you who may go down the same path, the correct part number for the Cycra U-clamp is 1156-02. They are stamped "KTM" but if you read the cycra catalog they are described as fitting 08 pro tapers. OK, OK, I know this is a boring thread, but since I started it I figured I should at least share the answer.
  7. bcs

    Rusted spark plug

    Maybe I should make sure the drain is not clogged with dirt. By the way, what's up with the spark plug boot on this bike? It's huge. I have never seen one like it. Is there a coil or something built into it? I notice the connector running to the top of it is just two normal wires, not like a traditional "spark plug wire".
  8. Installed a Scotts steering stabilizer, a BRP sub mount. Also installed new Pro Taper "countour" handlebars today, in the Henry/Reed bend--almost identical shape to the stockers. Then I tried to install cycra probend hand guards. I think maybe I got the wrong parts, 'cause when I tried to fit one on, loosely, it looked like this: Does this look right? I know sometimes you have to bend the guards a bit, but this is too much. The hanguards are cycra probend (not the CRM) and the U-clamps are p/n 1150-02. I have the U-clamps on the bar loosely. They are tapered and fit OK where you see 'em, but for the length of the hand guards they need to be about 2" closer to the handlebar mounts. I'm thinking the guys at the shop gave me the wrong clamps. Or am I going about it wrong? Thanks.
  9. bcs

    Rusted spark plug

    Pulled the plug on my 2006 WR450F today and it looked like this: What the is going on with this? Maybe too much pressure on the garden hose when I wash it? Seems like its pretty hard to get water down from the top, but I guess that drain hole is a possibility... I put in a new plug, of course, and vaccumed out the spark plug hole just in case any dirt was there. What is causing this? Anything I can do to prevent it?
  10. Have a 2006 WR450. tomorrow I'm gonna buy a Scotts stabilizer, a sub mount, new protaper handlebars and cycra probend hand guards. Any disadvantage to this setup? This is gonna raise my bars at least an inch. Will I have any problems wiht the length of cables or the front brake line? Last question--in the stock position, the speedo/odo is already hard to see--its kinda low behind the number plate. When I raise the bars, I think this will be worse. Not good for dual sporting. What has anyone done to make it easier to read? Thanks!
  11. bcs

    Header pipe glowing RED

    Pilot jet is clogged...mixture at idle very lean. Remove float bowl, clean jets, reassemble, ride. (ok, that's what I found the last time the header on my 450 was glowing). I'll bet it didn't start very easily, and didn't idle well--maybe you had to have the choke ON even though the bike wasn't cold. If so, its definitely a clogged jet.
  12. bcs

    '78 IT175 exhaust gasket?

    My 79 IT175 (sold it in the 80s) had that sort of gasket. My recollection is that the material was more like string, and that it was inserted into the header flange, rather than wrapped around the exhaust on the cylinder head. I also recall the bike weeping oil, and using hi temp silicone on it, which does not work very well either. Enjoy your restoration. Post pics!
  13. bcs

    DRZ or WR????

    I have a 2003 S-model DRZ, with all sorts of mods and a dual-sported WR450. On the street, the DRZ has better manners. Off the asphalt, there is no contest--the WR450 is superior in all respects. The DRZ is heavy and will never handle like the WR. The one great thing about the DRZ is the tremendous torque for hill climbing. The WR does not lug like the DRZ.
  14. bcs

    Tube change on the road

    Never had tubeless tires myself--forgive me if this is a stupid idea--but if you are tubeless and you puncture from a nail, why can't you use a plug, similar to those used for auto tires, to repair it on the road? Some of the plug kits are small and could be carried easily. then all you need is a bike pump or CO2.
  15. bcs

    did 3x3, re jet and now a leak from bowl!!!

    btw, a very cheap but valuable things you can do is replace the stock float bowl screws with allen screws. The phillips heads on the stock ones will strip easily. the allens don't strip, plus they can be tightened with a short, right-angle allen wrench, just in situations like yours. I think i got the screws from keintech (nice and super helpful guy!) but any good hardware store should have a suitable screw.
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