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Slartidbartfast

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About Slartidbartfast

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    TT Member

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    Louisiana
  • Interests
    Motorcycling, Photogrpahy, Travel

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  1. Slartidbartfast

    Big piece of metal on oil strainer

    My mind went through the exact trail this thread has followed. Looks like a bit of bearing cage except there is no way for such debris to get into the oil tank (if it was in a sump strainer then sure) so it can only have either entered via the fill hole or have been in there since the bike left the factory. Neither of which is really much cause for concern as there is a strainer of course.
  2. Slartidbartfast

    Portable fuel for dirt bike

    All across the developing world you find gasoline stored, transported in and dispensed from PET soda bottles - Think 0.5L to 2L coke bottles and the like. They are nearly indestructible, seal tightly even with vapor pressure inside and can be acquired freely almost anywhere.
  3. Slartidbartfast

    90's rm and rmx250 swing arm, link, shock changes

    I have picked up a nice clean RMX swingarm I'd like to install to improve on the action and lack of stiffness in the stock swingarm. I do NOT want to lower the rear of the bike so should I be looking for a longer shock or is there some combination of RMX and DR parts that will allow me to get the same ride height with the original shock (actually a dirt shock, recently rebuilt BTW?)
  4. Slartidbartfast

    Three Easy Ways to Improve Engine Cooling

    Despite Evans claims to the contrary, their product has significantly less heat capacity than conventional coolants so will always make the engine run hotter. It is intended for classic vehicles because it operates at low pressures and will not stress fragile old hoses and gaskets. Installation of Evans requires very careful flushing of your system to get rid of all existing coolant or you lose this benefit. Going back again when you find out it's not working is also a pain. Evans coolant is completely unsuitable for most high performance motorcycle engines. Also note in the original article, discussion of increased pump rates missed the fact that, at high rpm, high volume pumps can cavitate, leading to LESS flow in the system. They are most suitable for slow riding situations. Replacing a worn pump with a new OE pump is a great way to restore lost cooling capacity on older bikes. Finally, using the correct type of coolant specified by the manufacturer is important. In particular, switching from silicate-containing to non-silicate (OAT) coolants can lead to sludge build up.
  5. Slartidbartfast

    Octane Ratings: higher = better performance, right?

    Most 10 year olds have more respect - and if they ride dirt, can ride a wheelie other than in a straight line without crashing. This kid is a moron. I expect mommie and daddy paid for the bike and the medical care. They will probably pay the bail and/or funeral costs too. Article is spot-on. Quibbling over terminology is silly. BTW, pre-ignition by itself means nothing - it leads severe knock/ping/detonation but knock also occurs from other causes. As explained in the article. Finally, small changes in injection timing are unlikely to have any effect on knock, unlike ignition timing where 1 or 2 degrees can make a significant difference.
  6. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    Can't believe how long it's been since I did anything to this project. Back on it this week. Have stripped and cleaned the old Hyosung carb. It was full of thick varnish and sediment deposits but cleaned up really well in an ultrasonic bath with dollar store "Awesome" cleaner. Found the tip of the idle mixture needle broken off and jammed in the seat, however - still working on that and might need to try something else. Read on another forum that the Hyosung carb runs very rich on engines without the 4-valve head so might try another manifold solution that will let me use the Suzuki carb.
  7. Slartidbartfast

    DRZ125L upgrades

    It certainly seems a lot more appropriate for what you want to do with it, although possibly a bit high strung. If you can talk the old man with the 250 down $1000, that might be better still - About 4 x the horsepower of your DR too.
  8. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    This seemed like the least inelegant solution (by no means perfect, but a better bodge than the obvious alternatives.) It took only a few minutes with a Dremel cut-off wheel I should point out that the object of surgery is a scabbly spare carb. I think I'll see if I can get the bike running with it but, ultimately, if this works, I will do the same thing to the good carb. Looks ok
  9. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    Found a little time to work on the bike today and made up Adapter Plate Mk-II The carb and intake clear the shock nicely ...but here comes Alignment Problem Mk-II in the form of the asymmetric studs on the new inlet stub. Somehow I don't think it's going to seal like this Removing one stud and pivoting the carb around a bit to line it up with the inlet reveals the extent of the misalignment. I presume it is intended to be like this and I am seeing the problem because I'm using it upside-down. I sure there's a way around this. I just have to figure it out. Current thoughts include: An additional Heath-Robinson adapter to allow the left side of the carb to be bolted up Cut the manifold and turn the carb attachment part over, then try to glue it back together Slot the mounting holes on the carb to allow it to move up a bit
  10. Slartidbartfast

    Rear pads?

    Brake pad change is easy. Removing the caliper is also straightforward - you just have to remove the shield first. While the pad change can be done without removing the caliper, I suggest you remove it from it's mount for cleaning and lube of the sliding pins (lube with silicone grease) DR 350 Manual can be found several places on-line via google. Pretty sure most parts of the DR250 are the same.
  11. Slartidbartfast

    Is engine ruined?

    I'd be surprised if you don't need to do some work on the valves also. Don't try to turn it over until you know the valves are moving freely or you will bend a valve. Keep fingers crossed in hope that not much water made it to the bottom end.
  12. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    The new intake manifold came in and it looks like it's going to work perfectly once I've made another adapter plate.
  13. Slartidbartfast

    Larger jets to improve Lean condition from factory

    Agreed on shimming the needle (or going to a different needle profile). However, if the bike will start from cold with no choke, it is now running too rich at idle.
  14. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    Hoping this is going to do the trick: Stud/hole spacing is 48mm and 60mm on the Hyosuki but I'm sure it can be made to work. 27mm bore is spot on. This appears to have more of a bend than the stock item which is perfect, but for only $11.90, including shipping, I won't be afraid to modify it to get exactly the right angle.
  15. Slartidbartfast

    Heart Transplant - DR-Z125 into Hyosung RX125

    If I had the time and equipment to fool with it I'm fairly confident the head can be resurrected. I don't even have the necessary equipment to remove the valve springs so I gave it a shot of WD-40 and put it away - That was 2 years ago. The bottom end has some surface rust on the flywheels but everything else is OK so my guess is that someone ran it low on oil (or never changed the oil) which buggered up the cam and rocker pads, then left it out in the weather with the cam cover off and spark plug out. The cam bearings are rough but the rockers move smoothly. I have decided that getting the carb to point out to the right (away from the exhaust) is the way to go. Either a wedge-shaped adapter or an entirely different intake stub would do the trick. If I can find a spare Hyosung inlet stub, I can try modifying it to get a greater bend. It looks like some kind of plastic but I'm thinking it may be a hard rubber, based on the smell from dremeling it, which would rule out plastic welding.
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