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About nate1590

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    TT Member

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    Rhode Island
  1. I turned it in as far as I could and still get a decent idle. Still the same problem. The bike also pops quite a bit on decel if that helps
  2. Hello all, I bought a 1990 xr200r, all original down to the chain, sprockets and tires. it was not abused or stored improperly. I changed the oil, rebuilt the shock, and off I went. It started okay, but had problems idling and mid-range bogging. I rebuilt the carb with a new pilot and main jet (stock size), new float, set float height, new needle (stock clip position) and generally cleaned the carb very well. Also put in a new spark plug. The bike now starts first kick, idles well, and revs out fine. The problem is in the mid range (1/3-1/2 throttle). If I hold it at steady RPMS there, it will bog and sputter. The plug was black, so i assumed rich condition. I dropped the needle one clip, and it got a little better but not much. I am not sure what to change, and I don't want to change everything at once and get much worse. Does anyone have advice as to what I can do to remove the mid-range rich condition? Thank you for reading!
  3. Ring not centered on the pin, stuck out and caught a port? a picture would help everyone ID the problem easier.
  4. The 12 tooth does give the bike a nice pickup in the woods, I tried it on my 01 cr250. Just keep an eye on the front of the swingarm, the 12 tooth will cause faster wear through the slider pad and eventually into the metal if your not careful. What are you running for a rear sprocket?
  5. thanks for pointing out about the y axis, that helped with the last graph. I have the program set up for my stock settings, I am working on setting up my rear shock to be good in the woods. Here is my stock Comp. valving. Looking to keep lsc about the same and make my hsc much softer. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Iv'e read through the doggers revalve thread, but his stacks are much to stiff for my needs. stock showa comp valving. fyi im running 2.5 wt oil with stock spring LSC 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.2 44 0.15 44 0.15 44 0.15 44 0.15 37 0.15 CO 30 0.15 CO HSC 40 0.2 40 0.2 38 0.25 36 0.25 34 0.25 32 0.25 30 0.25 28 0.3 26 0.3 24 0.3 22 0.3 B 30 0.3 30 0.3 40 6.0
  6. Hello, I am hoping to find some help from others who have used and are familiar with the program. I am stuck trying to put in my needle settings so I can compare curves of different needle settings. I have the pro version. I don't know how to put this in, so all my graphs only have one curve instead of 3. Also, my damping coefficient vs. velocity will not graph at all, even though i have selected the data columns from the restackor tab. I hope I am being clear on my problems. The bike is a 2001 cr250 btw. Thank you for any help, and I hope this turns into a useful thread for DIY suspension tuners.
  7. Probably the best thing you can do is re-valve the suspension. You can send it out or do it yourself, this is an awesome thread with tons of good suspension http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/327668-diy-04-450-suspension-re-valve/ the stock mx suspension is harsh in the woods, also make sure your spring rates are correct for your weigh barkbusters are a must in the woods, maybe go up a tooth or two on your rear sprocket. On my cr250 I run 13/52 which works well in NE woods. If your running long races a over-sized tank will save time by avoiding pitting for fuel.
  8. I have an 01 cr250 and run 13/52 combo I have had it for 2 years of trail riding only and it works well.
  9. I was told by my local shop when compression gets to 160 psi cold, its time to think about doing the top end. I have always run belray H1R at 40:1 with 93 octane pump gas. Stock jetting so its on the rich side.
  10. I have a question about clutch basket interchangeability. I found one on ebay listed for an 04 crf450, new in box oem basket, but the part number on the box is actually for a crf250. I know 02-07 crf450 baskets will fit my bike, but what about crf250 baskets? The auction ends in 2 days I'm hoping to snag it if it fits.
  11. to take the nut off you can use an air wrench, it will snap it off without anything holding it. to torque it is where I used this tool, and its 60 ftlbs so its not putting a ton of force with this tool since the loads on the whole basket and hub
  12. its one metal and one fiber, riveted together to make it a solid unit. make sure to line it up in the clutch basket before drilling and riveting or the splines wont line up. Then use a piece of brass and jam the main gear and clutch basket gear to stop it from turning, and torque the clutch nut to 59 ft-lbs.
  13. I can get a used side cover for $40 or $60, i agree I would rather have a solid piece than on that has been welded. I had replaced the clutch plates and drive plates with an ebc kit with the steel plates about 5 hours ago, but didn't fix the basket because it was still race season. I like the look of the Hinson kit WPP3009, it comes with cushions and hardware, just need to switch the gear over. I am going to order a Wiseco piston and oem gaskets today. Hoping to pull the PV apart and clean it up this weekend. Thank you for the replies.
  14. Ghetto clutch holding tool, just riveted together and used a sheet of brass to stop crank from turning. cheap but effective. engine out of the cradle head when I took it off top of piston stock piston after takign the jug off. Cylinder fought me hard, the dowels were corroded so it came off hard after being bolted on for ten years. rubber malet and some patience did the trick. inside of the cylinder. Ring gap was .023, so not quite out of spec but on their way. Powervalve all gooed up. Still works smooth, just a little slow to return. Head after a good cleaning. I think I can get the rest of the carbon off. Again if anyone has any questions about the procedure feel free to ask, I hope this will be a helpful thread!
  15. Hello everyone. Winter is coming and I have a few months off from racing, so it is time for maintenance on the bike. I am the second owner of the bike, and I have put 90 hours on it over the last 2 seasons, previous owner about 20. I race hare scrambles in New England, so this is a moto bike turned woods bike. Here is what I have planned. Grease all the suspension bearings, stiffer fork springs, re-valve the shock, and re-lace a crf250x rear wheel so I will have an 18" rim. I also will be doing the top end, since it is the original honda piston with over 100 hours on it. It tested at 145 psi compression cold, so it was definitely time. I also took the right side cover off to fix a pretty good crack I found after a race. Bent the skid plate wing into the cover after hitting what I assume was a rock. It was a rough, muddy season so the bikes took a lot of abuse! After taking the engine apart, everything looked to be in very good condition. It will be getting new piston, rings, gaskets, clean the power-valve (there's a lot of sludge in there). I've taken a few pictures along the way, if anyone has any questions about this feel free to ask. I have a couple questions for the CR gurus... 1) what is best to clean powervalve? gas, carb cleaner? 2) The ring gear on the back of the clutch basket has some play. maybe 1/8 inch rotational play. I know there are cushions back there, but should the be free play too? I can post video of what I mean if needed. 3) I'm going with a wiseco piston. Should I get the wiseco top end kit w/ gaskets, or just piston and use OEM gaskets? Thanks for reading and hopefully the pictures can help someone else out. pile of parts growing here is the crack in the side cover. grinding was from removing the quicky jb weld job. Going to attempt to have it tig welded, not sure if you can weld that cast alum. crf250x wheel, not bad just needs new set of spokes.
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