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FasYankee

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About FasYankee

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    TT Member

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    Connecticut
  1. FasYankee

    Flatslide for the TTR225?

    Is there a non-CV carb available for the TTR 225? I have one that is a project. I'm not a big fan of CV carbs, and would like to get an appropriate FCR, anyone know what size would fit?
  2. FasYankee

    Valve Timing issue, Pic's included

    I already did the yzf cam timing mod myself.....I'm more concerned with the fact that the intake cam seems retarded by one tooth in reference to the fact that the crankshaft is in exactly the TDC position, ignoring the position of the exhaust cam for now. I think what I'm going to do is re-position both cams so that they reflect the exact orientation as outlined in the factory manual, and then rotating the motor by hand, assure that there is no interference (valve/piston), if everything is good, run it, see if there's a marked difference. I understand that if it is correct, then it should be at WR spec (stock) valve timing. At that point, I'd retard the exhaust cam one tooth (for yzf cam timing), again turning the motor over by hand, checking for interference, and then run it again. Although I haven't fiddled with cams in years, I remember when I built my blown '78 TransAm in highschool auto shop, we degreed the cams a few different ways with different results. I'd just like to be sure that I'm getting all the power this thing has to offer, in basically stock form.
  3. Hey all, went to do a valve check the other day, and noticed something weird.... I put the engine to TDC as per the manuals instructions, and the cams look like this: Now keep in mind that I've done all the free mods, including the yzf cam timing mod, in which I retarded the exhaust cam by 1 tooth. In these pictures the crank is PRECISELY lined up at the TDC mark (flywheel/case), and I checked before and after each pic. I'm only concerned because the manual depicts the cams being in a different orientation, i.e. the lobes should be EXACTLY lined up with the head/valve cover sealing surface, and the "I" and "E" should be in the 3 and 9 o'clock position and the dots should be at the 12 o'clock...again, understanding that I've done the yzf cam timing mod the exhaust cam should be slightly (1 tooth) different than the picture in the manual. The bike runs mint, starts 1st/2nd kick cold, with choke, 1st kick hot, every time. Has a slight rough running condition at steady throttle, noticeable "hit" in power in the midrange, the plug reads perfect. I should also mention that this bike is a street legal motard, I am the 2nd owner, except for the throttle stop and removal of the peashooter cap from the exhaust, the bike was bone stock when I got it. here it is now: Should I fiddle with the cams, or just leave it? I'm just curious if the bike could make some more power with properly timed cams.....
  4. FasYankee

    What makes the DRZ (sm) so special?

    nope, no cush drive on the sm wheels, DNA wheels. I see where you're going with the big bore.....less revs/more torque.....what about raising the compression?
  5. FasYankee

    What makes the DRZ (sm) so special?

    What I'd really like to do is to take the reliability aspect of the DRZ (the specific reasons) and incorporate them into my WR. I really enjoy the WR, I'm a huge Yamaha fan (R1/WR/YSR currently, last bunch of bikes have been Yam's with the odd Suz/Hon/Kaw thrown in as samples) and I'd rather build on what I have. That being said, I thought of welding/balancing the crank, maybe lightening it in the process, chamfer the oiling passages for better flow, new (read beefier) con-rod, lightening/balancing the flywheel, forged piston, and somehow adding an in-line oil cooler, or an additional resevoir tank(other than the frame). I think the cooler would help 2 fold, adding capacity, and obviously cooling duty. Valve checks/adjustments I'm not too concerned about, they're easy, and the 5 valve heads on all my streetbikes have consistenly stayed within tolerances for the most part. (I had a '94FZR1k that had well over 45k miles, valves always within spec). Any other suggestions that you guys can think of as far as bullet-proofing my WR? I don't beat my rides up, but I'm not easy on them either.
  6. I posted this over on SMJ, and was referred here.....at any rate, my query is what specifically about the DRZ SM makes it so bullet-proof as opposed to other supermoto single engines, either purpose built, or converted dirtbikes? Some responded the higher oil capacity, which I can see as a contributing factor, while others responded "engineered better", which, well, doesn't really pinpoint what I'm looking for. Is the crank journal oiled better?, larger con-rod? Longer stroke? There must be something specific...... I currently have a converted '00 WR400 which I chose b/c of the steel valves and wider ratio tranny. I really enjoy the bike, but am concerned about blowing it up. I had considered replacing it for a DRZ, soley on the reliability reason, but then got to wondering what specifically was the reason they're considered so superior.
  7. Anyone know what the stock (WR) rev limiter is set at as opposed to the Grey wire mod (YZF) rev limiter is set at? The thread that had all the technical information on it has the images of the ignition graphs, but they're removed/lost...... Anyone know the answer?
  8. FasYankee

    Possible to use AC only

    man, wiring that thing is so easy, get the lowdown at www.farplaces.com that guy was even kind enough to include schematics. Get the 7 wire conductor from a trailer place, get the battery from interstate and stuff it in the airbox, also put kill switches (lights and ignition) inside the subframe grab holes. Should take you a day to get it wired if you have no experience, an afternoon if you know your way around a schematic. I would go with the non-relay'd version (there's 3 on the website) I tried the relay'd one, had too many diode issues, so went to the switched one, and now just remember to shut it down properly when I get off. G/L man!
  9. FasYankee

    Airbox Delete?

    Anyone running no airbox on their WR? And by this I mean running a filter only on the carb. My bike is a Sumo, so would hardly (if ever) see serious dirt/mud.
  10. FasYankee

    426 graphics at MGX Unlimited

    Man, that place is pricey!!!
  11. FasYankee

    1999 wr 400 questions

    If the bike runs $1500 sounds about right for that bike. If he's unwilling to get it running, show up with $1k, cash (I wouldn't reccomend going alone), a can of fresh gas, starter fluid, and and a metric toolset, see if he'll take the $1k cash, seeing that the bike isn't running, if he says yes, ask if he minds if you fiddle with the carb to try and get it running. If he says yes, remove the fuel line from the carb and drain the tank (into a container), unscrew the float bowl drain and watch the gas, as long as it's coming out and not sandy brown that's good. Replace the fuel line and the float bowl drain, put some gas in the tank, and remove the seat, make sure there's no critter nest in the airbox (under the seat) and inspect the foam filter, make sure it's not disintegrating, if all is good, put the seat on momentarily, turn the petcock on the tank to res, and pull the decomp lever in and give the bike 8-10 good kicks (hold the decomp lever in). Remove the seat again, give the air filter a good huff of the starting fluid, put the seat back on, find TDC with the kicker, pull the decomp lever in with slight pressure on the kicker, as soon as it goes down slighly, release the decomp lever, let the kicker retract to the full upright position and then kick it hard. When I got my '00WR400 last yr. it was the same scenario, hardly ridden bike, been in storage for years, the gas was shellac. I did all the above and the bike fired first kick. It only ran for a minute or 2 but I was able to listen carefully for that time and heard nothing to cause concern. I converted it to Sumo, and the thing is mint, after getting the carb sorted and doing the free mods, it really was a diamond in the rough....I'm exceptionally happy w/it! If you have one I would also reccomend bringing a stand, put the bike up there and wiggle the forks fore and aft, checking the head bearings, also the swingarm for play, wheel bearings, shifter/brake levers, etc. Normal wear and tear items, you can also rotate the wheels, look for bent rims, wobbling rotors, etc. Keep your money in your pocket till you are certain, don't get all emotional about it, it's just a bike. Go there with the intention of "getting a bike to run". There are other things that could keep the bike from running too, could be something simple, could be something serious, and $$$. I do agree with Arctic about taking for a quick test ride, but remember, you're already dealing with an admittedly neglected machine, take it easy and be careful.
  12. FasYankee

    What's are the steps...

    First off, you need the Certificate of Origin, get that, and look at it, if it says "offroad use only" or anything like that, you need to get all your aftermarket stuff, here in CT you need speedo with non-resettable odo, headlight, taillight, indicators, chainguard, red/yellow reflectors on rear/front of bike, highbeam indicator, and DOT tires. If you go to http://www.farplaces.com/dual.htm there's an awesome write up on how to make it street-legal. After you've done all your work, you'll need to go and apply for a "composite" motorcycle registration, basically what the custom guys do when they fab their own choppers.... Then you go off to inspection, they look over the bike, if anything is wrong/missing they tell you, you fix it and you're good. If you have no C/O, then you need to post a bond, DMV will tell you how much the bond needs to be for, and then you can get it, usually from an insurance co. You'll also need a chain of custody paper trail, all notarized, as far back as you can go....go back far enough and you'll probably find the C/O! If the C/O doesn't say "for offroad use only" then you just go to DMV and get plates.
  13. FasYankee

    WR400F 2002?? What's the history on this bike?

    so is it a 400 or a 426???? what's the answer man!!??
  14. Well did the grey wire......(found the post somewhere, the grey wire, on the '00 is in fact a useless ground included in the killswitch loom)....then I decided that since I had the tank off already, I'd do the bk mod.....easy, and the o-ring mod....no problemo, then I figured I'd check the needle position, well the clip was in the #2 position, which I thought was a little odd, so checked the manual and put it on #3......then I figured, what the hell, might as well change the cam timing.....everything is right here in front of me...easy as pie....also the throttle stop mod had already been done, by the P/O. so now I get her started, which was a bitch, b/c while setting the AP squirt, I'm sure I flooded the heck out of it..... Well now she huffs more than ever off the bottom.....I think that it's a lean condition, may need to fiddle with the mix screw as well, as I found that the P/O was kind enough to back it out 3 full turns..... going to try and raise needle later today, and see what the situation is.... Anyone have a secret method of getting the throttle cables on and off the carb???? I can't really fit my mitts in there to weasle them on too well, and that's actually the most difficult part of the job... oh, and BTW, when she gets off the bottom....she's a completely different bike.....brrrrraaaappappp!!!!
  15. FasYankee

    Grey Gray wire mod misnomer?

    Congratulations on your '05 WR, your forgetfullness, your alcoholism, your lack of reading comprehension skills, and your performance guage buttocks....... anyone (else) want to give a shot at the query? What I'd like to know, is which wire, if not the gray wire as part of the kill switch circut, is the wire to cut? It seems that just like most other forums, normally, if you ask a simple question, you get either "use the search feature" or a link, but most of the referrals that I've found searching "gray grey wire mod wr 400" gets you over to www.thumperfaq.com, which is close, but it's a different bike, different wiring harness, different colors on the wires. I've learned alot using the search function, found most of what I was looking for and even some good tid-bits that I wasn't looking for..... But the gray wire mod specifics have escaped me thus far......
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