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10guy

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    Oregon
  1. Hey Eddie, I'm going to be riding my klx400 at higher elevations. I took it out a couple of weeks ago and it had some carb issues. It would run fine until it got warmed up and then it would just bog. I expected it to be rich and so tried to lean it out some but didn't have any luck and was with a group so I hopped on a back up bike and used it for the rest of the weekend. I'm going back out to that area and would like to use my klx, where should I go with my jetting. It ran fine with the current jetting at sea level to 1000 feet. 1) Bike is a 2003 klx/drz 400 2) Elevation will be 4000 feet to 6000 feet. Temps will be in the 50's and 60's. Just riding trails at a mellow pace with a couple of newbies. 3) Bike is a 13.5:1 cr, 439cc big bore, 3X3, ported and polished by a respected professional, full muzzy exhaust, original hot cams intake and exhaust 4) Current Jetting is: Main Air Jet (MAJ) #200 Needle Jet (NJ) 2.9mm Slow Jet (SJ) 38 with no coast enrichner Main Jet (MJ) 142 Jet Needle (JM) James Dean red clip on #3 Pilot Screw (fuel screw) 1 out Slow Air Jet (SAJ) Adjustible set 5/8 turn out 5) Runs fine cold but as it warms up it just bogs at anything above 1/4 throttle. Am running at a higher elevation than normal. 6) Gets worse as it warms up.
  2. 10guy

    2006 KLR650 Milage

    I've got 128,000 miles on my 1990 tengai. Bottom end has not been touched, neither has the transmission (clutch has been replaced a few times, the bike has lived it life heavily loaded and set up for adventure touring). Top end was done 100,000 + miles ago complete with a ported head. It is now in need of a total rebuild, that will be the project for next winter.
  3. 10guy

    My DRZ is cactus

    Something to think about. The drz comes with 2 piece valves that have been known to separate, not all that common but it does happen. If the engine was full of water and turned over to full hydro lock, in other words tried to start it but it either turned a little and then stopped or wouldn't turn over at all, there is a very good chance that the valves were damaged. They may or may not be bent but at the very least they had excessive pressure against them thereby weakening them. Personally I'd strongly consider replacing them with good aftermarket one piece valves.
  4. 10guy

    Positive thoughts for bronco78

    Not sure his actual rank but if I remember correctly he is the highest non-commissioned officer, master sargent or something like that. He just got a promotion that keeps him in for another tour at least. Last time he was over there he build a couple of bases on the end of the line. His last one was a significant distance to the closed friendly base and even further to the nearest US base. When I get his address I'll post it here (as long as Mrs. bronco thinks it is OK).
  5. 10guy

    What De-Greaser/ Cleaner

    Careful with the simple green around aluminum parts. Make sure they are cool before you apply it and then make sure you rinse it off really well, and then rinse it off again to make sure. There is a reason the air force doesn't allow its use on planes.
  6. 10guy

    Soon to join the DRZ family!

    Welcome, now it's time to open the wallet and get the card out...
  7. 10guy

    motor full of gas

    It's not a good thing to get to that point, bad things can happen to valves.
  8. My bike is an easy starter, it just likes to run. I know of another drz that is not nearly so easy to start. Not very different at the time and certainly nothing that should be as dramatic as it was but just different bikes.
  9. Your smile will be bigger with the fcr. It is not a difficult carb to work on so re-jetting for any performance change is easily done. I've gone from the stock 142 main jet to 167 main jet and now am at a 140 and will possibly end up even lower 135 or 137 looks to be the end goal.
  10. 10guy

    DRZ weight loss

    10 pounds sounds about right. If you have the stock cams then you have an auto decomp on the exhaust. I believe that the new hot cams also have an auto decomp as well IIRC. And as long as you haven't dumped it on a slick up hill or in some other very awkward position, and as you've said, haven't flooded it then it is not that bad I guess. I don't have personal experience with it since I'm running high compression, hot cams exhaust with no decomp (luckily I have the manual, I even use it sometimes in conjunction with the starter), and it can be a bitch to kick without any decomp. Stock S compression shouldn't be that bad though.
  11. 10guy

    What kind of carb?

    This is the top of the fcr carb. The cv has the black plastic thing.
  12. 10guy

    Bike wont start after valves shimmed

    Not sure what your "real tight" is but when I work on an engine I use one of three torque wrenches, in-lb, small ft-lb, and large ft-lb. You can have it too tight and still turn it but it wouldn't be very good for the cam bushings.
  13. 10guy

    What kind of carb?

    Looks like a cv carb to me, must have come off a california e Not a fcr
  14. 10guy

    DRZ weight loss

    How much weight do you think you save by pulling the starter and then adding a blocking plate and a kick start kit? If you go that far then pulling the battery should be done and replaced by a capacitor or a smaller 12v battery. So the lighter flywheel doesn't remove weight from the bike? Yes it is definitely more noticeable with the quicker engine response but this guy is talking about taking off plastic containers that weigh next to nothing and electrical switches which are the same. You can also save a few pounds by taking out the starter clutch and gears. Then once you have done all that you will have a four stroke kick start only bike with no manual decompression. If you stick with an autodecomp exhaust cam it will be better for sure but it still could be a real bugger at times. Not sure I'd recommend taking off the fan, but to each his own.
  15. 10guy

    Torque Setting for DD and Stroker install

    It's been a while since I was here last, thanks for the update.
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