Jump to content

uncleargile

Members
  • Content Count

    830
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About uncleargile

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario
  1. uncleargile

    04 rm-z 250 won't idle without choke and high oil presure

    So I got a new feeler gauge and it looks like all clearances are to spec except one exhaust valve. The tolerance is .17mm - .22mm and my clearance is .13mm, It's not enough to cause the condition I'm having imo but it may be indicative of a problem with the valve or seat. I think I'll maybe give the carb another go and if that doesn't work i'll pull the head and have a look inside. I tried various ways of sealing the hot start and choke better but they had no effect.
  2. uncleargile

    04 rm-z 250 won't idle without choke and high oil presure

    I put the proper jet in and it had pretty much no effect. The hot start doesn't have any sort of o-ring and I have been wondering if it should so good call there, I'll look into that.
  3. I'm working on a friends rmz 250 and it won't seem to idle without the choke on, right away I figured it was the pilot jet or fuel screw but after lots of cleaning and adjustment it still behaves the same. I measured the valve clearance and it seems a little tight but my smallest gauge is .005" which doesn't fit the intake so i can't tell what the actual clearance is but i can move the bucket easily so i think there is some clearance. Also the bike was seeping oil out the crank access hole after i would run it. I changed the oring on the hole which fixed the problem but now it seeps out the countershaft seal. I'm not sure if the seals are just bad from age or if the oil pressure is too high. I also notice a lot of foamy bubbles in the oil sight window after running. As far as i can tell the bike is stock and jetting is stock except it has a 190 main jet which seems really big i think stock is 178. also the bike gets hot really quick and is somewhat hard to start but I've heard its a very hot running bike so maybe its normal.
  4. uncleargile

    BT-016 vs Contiforce SM

    Thats good to know fish, ive talked to Pete before and i would like to give him my business if the price is close to what im looking at now.
  5. uncleargile

    BT-016 vs Contiforce SM

    Pete's superbikes has pilot powers for $108,Bt-016 for $123 and they don't have conti's listed. I may have chosen a poor title for this thread cause its now between bt-16's and pilot powers. Ive got a pirelli diablo supercorsa on the front now and an irc protech sp01 on the rear which makes the bike turn in fast. While part of me likes the fast turn in it doesn't seem practical for city driving. How would the turn in and wear compare between the bt-016 and pilot powers?
  6. uncleargile

    BT-016 vs Contiforce SM

    Thanks for the advice guys, especially about Pete's superbike.
  7. uncleargile

    BT-016 vs Contiforce SM

    I need at least a rear and eventually a front tire and im in Canada so pricing is a bit different, i mostly commute and 90% of the time im riding pretty tame. My biggest concern is tire wear followed by predictability. The prices ive got so far are $175 for a 150/60-17 BT-016 and $180 for a 150/60-17 Contiforce SM. Oh ya and im riding a drz400s with stock drz400SM wheels. Has anyone run both these tires? Is there anything else in this price range i should consider? and what tire should i expect to last longer?
  8. uncleargile

    18" front wheel

    Would it be silly to put a 18" front wheel on my 03 drz400s? I would love a set of SM wheels but ive come to realize i can't justify the cost and i won't ever be racing. Ultimately i would like to sell my drz and get a street bike or a drz400SM but ive been told the most i could get for my bike is $3000 canadian which makes it not really worth it since i have about $9,000 into it and very low km's. The main point to going with the 18" is to lower the bike a bit and get access to more street tires.
  9. uncleargile

    Free Power (Electrical that is)

    Hey i just realized that connector from the rectifier melted on me a few years ago and i just cut the connection out and resoldered it. Here i was worried about cutting that wire and now i realize i cut it along time ago. Most of the resistance may be from that connector, i just checked my battery at idle and its at 14.37v with only the connection bypassed.
  10. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    wow that was too easy its like it was designed to be bypassed does the E not have this? i expect a hard plastic 2 prong connector like most of the other connections.
  11. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    nice thanks again guys sounds pretty clean and simple
  12. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    whats the cleanest most reliable way to bypass it?
  13. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    well damn i feel stupid for some reason i didn't think i matter and i sure does that indeed was the problem. All the plastic under the grey plastic connector attatched to the clutch lever was broken. Now i wonder if i should buy new parts or bypass it. Thanks alot guys:ride:
  14. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    maybe i remember things wrong but if it's in neutral the clutch and sidestand switches shouldn't matter should they?
  15. uncleargile

    I lost my E-start today

    ya ive done that too unfortunately thats not the problem this time
×