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motomadman

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About motomadman

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    TT Bronze Member

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    California
  1. motomadman

    2006 YZ250F Starting Problem

    Typically the #1 reason for hard starting is valves are out of adjustment. Beyond that, it could be a lot of things. I cleaned my carb and it didn't help. I've been out of commission for a while now, but I'm pretty sure my problem related back to a solution stated above which is simply the idle screw needed an adjustment. So somple I didn't think of it
  2. Heard this before? The bike won't start by kick-starting, has to be be push-started. Seems to perform fine once running. I checked the valves, had to adjust the right intake by .006in (it was at about .002). Still doesn't want to start, ugh I've considered tearing apart the carb, but do not have high hopes for that because the bike does not sit for long. When I kick it over, I am under-impressed by the compression kick-back. I bought the bike new, it has 80+ hours off moderate motocross. I'm not hitting the rev limiter, but do push the bike hard and ride in dusty conditions. I can't find any specs on compression or leak-down numbers. Does anybody know of reliable information on this for the YZ250F? Any other suggestions or ideas? Thank in advance and I'll post details on whatever resolution I find works. Ride On
  3. motomadman

    Radiator Lowering Kit

    Does anybody know of a Radiator Brace that works with the Radiator Lowering kit? I tried to mount a Works Connection Radiator Brace but it interfered with the lowering bracket. Here's two pictures. The first is correct mounting of the Lowerting kit without the Radiator Brace and the second is an attempt at having both mounted. They interfere with each other though...
  4. motomadman

    Old Man, has Question?

    Go with a flywheel weight for sure. Will smooth out the power delivery without robbing horsepower.
  5. motomadman

    Radiator Lowering and Radiator Braces?

    Ah yes, but lets see a pic of your bike from directly in front. Here's a couple pics of mine. First with just the lowering kit Then with both the Lowering Kit and the Radiator Brace You can see the radiator is pushed out by the width of the Brace + Lowering Bracket and the Lowering Bracket has a space where it's supposed to tighten down. The radiator rubber mount is supposed to protrude into that area. If I fully tightened it the lowering bracket would bend and possibly break. Here a pic of both sides together to better compare
  6. motomadman

    Radiator Lowering and Radiator Braces?

    I just tried installing the Radiator Lowering kit along with Works Connection radiator braces - and found I can't have both at the same time. I could make it work with some extra washers but that would push my radiators out by about 1/4 inch. Does anybody know which braces are compatible with the lowering kit?
  7. motomadman

    Triple clamp offset affect on race sag

    Yeah, sounds strange. But from what I understand increasing the offset will decrease the trail.
  8. I'm just wondering if I should change my sag setting when changing offset via Applied triple clamps? I have a 2006 YZ250F. Recommended sag for these bikes is around 95mm. The lower sag is supposed to help them turn better. I am adding Applied 27mm offset (24mm stock) triple clamps. I asked the Applied tech, he said it has no effect. I was thinking maybe I should bump up to 100mm sag. I know, I know - I'll try experimenting, see what happens.
  9. How does installing a Radiator Lowering kit effect installing Radiator Braces? Thanks!
  10. motomadman

    06, rear suspension clicking noise?

    You've got some slack in the rear suspension. Check that the shock is in tight. Have someone lift/lower the swingarm while you inspect. You should see the movement come from somewhere. I'll probably be at either end the shock (top or bottom), could be the linkage or (less likely) the swingarm. Good luck and keep us posted.
  11. motomadman

    maintenance intervals

    Check you manual, it has service intervals. Get an hour meter (can get them as Sears or mc shop) and change the oil/filter every 8-10 hours. Have two airfilters and rotate a clean one on every hour or so depending on conditions. See your manual about checking the valves, you should do that once in a while as well.
  12. motomadman

    RG3 or Applied? (22mm or 27mm?)

    >Instead of all this clamp offset worrying just stick with the stock clamps and lengthen your rear shock 1.5mm like the 07. Yeah, a lot of guys with CRF's run aftermarket links like the following: http://www.koubalink.com/crf.html These essentially decrease the trail to give better turning. A less expensive alternative to replacing triple clamps. I'm not sure why this isn't being done with yamaha's though Anyone?
  13. motomadman

    Front tire... do I ever need to replace?

    My rule of thumb is to replace the Front tire once for every two Rear tires ... Trials tire!?!? I swear by Dunlop 756 for all but hard pack
  14. motomadman

    Gone (to CRF250R) and Back again (to YZ250F)

    >You must be doing something wrong to go through 3 sets in 60 hrs..... I'd agree, but I'm a vet rider big on maintenance; I've minimized risk factors * Change air filter every ride; verified no visible dust in air boot * Change oil often * Don't over-rev * Stainless valves * In-line filters on carb vent lines * Professional (& expensive) valve jobs (by Engine Dynamics) I do ride in a dusty area and that's what Honda says is the problem - micro-dust. These four strokes all run the same carbs and I found dust in my carb - hence the in-line vent line filters. There's been a few threads on this in the CRF forum. Has dust in the carb been an issue with the YZ's? If anyone's interested, here's a link to some pretty nice in-line filters: http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/866913.asp
  15. Yeah, same old tale. Had a 01 YZ250F, loved it and bought a CRF250R when they came out in 04. Learned about valves the hard way and back to Yamaha for reliability. Seems I'm not alone; There's lots of references from people who have done the same. I'll spare you the gory detail, just that my CRF is needing it's 3rd valve job with only 60 hours on it. I've gone to extremes to try and preserve it, but it just wont last. My old 01 YZ250F (which I sold to a friend) is still going stong on it's original valves. Prices on the 06 YZ250F's are great right now, so that's where I'm going. These forums are an invaluable resource when getting a new bike or if having a problem. I'm back here now to see what all the hot mods are for a 06 YZ250F. You guys have probably seem them all many times over. Here's my short list: * Applied triple clamps with 27mm offset * Radiator Lowering kit * Sag at 95-97mm Which I'll round out with: * 756 front tire * Fastway F3 pegs * Hour meter and magnetic drain plug Am I missing anything? I know JD-Jet kits were big on the CRF's.
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