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About MXH

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    United Kingdom
  1. MXH

    Not running right

    Cheers guys I will give both ideas a go and let you know if they were on the right lines
  2. MXH

    Not running right

    Having a problem with my '00 WR400 which I'm hoping someone can advise on. It's fine when on full throttle, but on steady part throttle, or even accelerating gently (coming out of a slippery corner etc) it feels like it's missing - it's lumpy and juddery - doesn't pull cleanly at all. I've had it from new, and straight away put an aftermarket pipe on it with the bigger main jet that came with the pipe. A few months back the pipe was deemed too loud, so I've gone back to the standard silencer and the standard main jet. I thought it might be the pipe causing the problem, but I put the loud one on back today and the problem is still there. The only other mod I've made is to remove the airbox lid. Another thing that may be relevant is that around the same time I noticed the problem. I had another problem that it wouldn't rev out - just spluttered under full load. It was running a CR8E plug (the original!!) - the only spare I had was a CR9E and it worked fine with that. But when I put a new CR8E in I had the same problem on full throttle, so now I've stuck with the CR9E. Can anyone piece together the clues in this and have a shot as to what the problem might be?
  3. MXH

    Engine Seize

    I did a similar thing with my WR a few years back. Replated cylinder, new piston & rings but all else OK. So when it's up and running again do what I did - lockwire both of the engine drain bolts.
  4. MXH

    Gear Selection problem

    Hmm, that link was all over the place - this one is hopefully correct - Link It's only a small peg and there was a hell of a lot of swarf in the filter. That, and the fact that the bike was ridden for a good 5 minutes after the problem arose, makes me think that there's unlikely to be much left in there to clean out.
  5. My 2000 WR400 decided yesterday that it wasn't going to change gear any more. I stripped it down last night and found out why - there's a bit missing. See the peg on item 2 that goes into component 10 at http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.aspx?c=5,1649,1668&i=19905,2 well that's not there anymore. Anyone else heard of or had the same problem? The worrying thing is that I can't find the bit anywhere, although there was definately more swarf than usual in the oil filter, suggesting that it's just broken up. I was thinking of just replacing the part, running the engine gently for 10 minutes or so on some fresh oil, draining that out, refilling then back to normal use. What do you think?
  6. MXH


    Cheers for the reply - seems you like yours then !! The thing I love about my 400 is the power, especially the low down torque. But 3 years development is a lot so that's why I'm interested to hear how much of a difference there is compared to a new 250. I'm also a bit lazy, hook a gear and let it pull. Not going to get that with the 250, am I? On the flip side, following KTM125s and the like through the woods makes me wonder how much quicker I might be with something lighter. Decisions, decisions eh!!
  7. MXH


    OK, I've searched the forums but can't find what I need. I've got a 2000 WR400, pretty standard apart from the aftermarket pipe and free mods (airbox, yz timing etc) I'm thinking of getting an 03 WR250, so could anyone give me any info on the folowing 1. What's the difference in weight (dry weight comparison if poss) 2. Power - obviously less, but what about characteristics? If it feels like a 2 stroke, why not get a 2 stroke?? 3. On the move- much better, or still got that 'big 4 stroke' feel? Anything other pro's or cons? Thanks for any comments Mike
  8. MXH

    Pins and needles

    Over the last few months I've noticed that I'm getting a tingling, pins and needles type sensation in my right hand for about the first 1/2 hour to an hour of riding, after which it seems to clear up. I ride a WR400, but have had it from new in March 2000 and haven't changed anything for a couple of years. And as it's only the right hand, it makes me think it's me rather than the bike that's the problem. Anyone suffered from something similar, or have any ideas as to what causes it and what I can do about it? Thanks Mike
  9. MXH

    WR450 has anyone ridden one?

    I was talking to a guy on the Yamaha stand at the Stoneleigh dirt bike show (who turned out to be Geraint Jones, multi British enduro champion). He reckoned that that the 450 was a vast improvement over the 426, in all departments but especially power-wise. However, he also said that he thought the 250 was a better bike overall !! Mike
  10. MXH

    Leaking fork repair

    My fork leg got a whack from something which caused a very small chip and a sharp edge, which in turn caused the fork seal to go. I've rubbed down the sharp edge, but what's the best thing to use to 'fill' the chip? Are there specific products, or has anyone got some good tricks? Thanks Mike
  11. MXH

    Front brake problems

    Mark, I was saying that I agree with the theory of your screwdriver test. BUT the problem is that I cannot firm up the lever no matter how many times i pump it. The bike is stationary and I am pumping the lever but it does not firm up. I am not spinning the front wheel at all - that's why I'm saying it can't be a bent rotor. Mike
  12. MXH

    Front brake problems

    Mark, I agree with your screwdriver test - but the bike is stationary (ie the front disk is not spinning) and I can pump the front brake 10, 50, 100 times and it does not firm up. If a bent rotor was causing the problem, would you not expect it to firm up in this test?? Therefore it's something else - I have tried bleeding the whole system through with new brake fluid but it's still the same. Suppose I'll just have to get a braided hose and try that. Mike
  13. MXH

    Front brake problems

    Dan, Thanks for the response, but this isn't the problem in my case. If the disk rotor was warped, you would expect that pumping of the lever would firm it back up again - only the rotation of the disk would push the pads back. This doesn't happen in my case - the lever comes back to the bars even after pumping it a few times. It almost feels like there's air in the system, but I've bled it through a few times but to no avail. Any other ideas? Mike
  14. Have noticed over the last few months that my '00 WR front brake is getting more and more spongy with more travel. Just ridden an enduro today which was very fast (therefore lots of braking) and the lever was coming back to the bars. I'm not losing fluid, so it must be the standard brake line expanding - mustn't it? Anyone had the same problem? I assume the solution is to get a braided steel hose, but just want to check I'm not overlooking anything. Cheers Mike
  15. MXH

    WR on the track?

    I had the suspension revalved on my Y2K WR400 to suit MX riding, changed to YZ timing and now it feels just the same as my mates YZ. Only difference is a bit extra weight (not that I can notice it but it must be there) and the 18" rear. I'm sure you can get rid of a lot of the weight (eg coolant reservoir) if you wanted to. Mike