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About cjard

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  1. Having wired a set of heated grips to my bro's 450, they work well for keeping his hands warm (too many power tools/smoking/drugs back in the 60s have shot his circulation, can't keep em warm on the trails in winter) but they drain the battery faster than it charges. does the light coil have a higher output/enough juice to run both the lights and the heated grips? Theyre oxford hotgrips and consume max 48watts (4 amps) for the pair.. i havent been able to find anywhere that says what the wattage of the stator is
  2. if i lean my bro's wr450 more than about 30 degrees away from vertical, fuel runs out of the carb overflow - havent had time to investigate yet but suspect float height. if the bike is running well, perhaps he should re-route the overflow pipes out of the side and on top of his boot - he'll find out pretty quick if stuff's running out of them - stands to reason that if fuel mileage is bad it's going somewhere - doesnt have to be the engine..
  3. I knew there was a fellow rocket roadster owner who occasionally turns up at the local meeting point - was fortunate enough to get there after him so I could park in the foreground Then, surprises, my dad turned up on his (the red one) And later we happened to notice that 3 Triumph Street triples had been parked on the other side of the 'forum' 6 bikes, 18 pistons, fantastic coincidence!
  4. my bro's bike did this, sometimes the starter would engage, sometimes not. under the little round cover on the left side of the bike is the starter cogs, the motor engages with a larger cog on a small shaft and that shaft is supported on the end you can see, by a small metal hoop that that part of the entire flywheel cover casting my bro's hoop had brokenoff and disappeared into the engine to get mashed up , the cogs shaft had slipped sideways, bending the hole it sat in on the engine left hand crank case.. ive since fitted a new flywhee cover, rather than try to weld a new hoop in, and i now stop the bike by gently stalling it in first gear, as it doesnt produce the same horrendous clunk and sound of starter motor being spun backwards as the piston bounces off a compression stroke and turns everything backwards
  5. Looks like it's had a bit of use.. how much, is anyone's guess - one of the parts removed seems to be the speed sensor for the front wheel.. clock shows 0 kilometers Any idea how to switch the clock into miles per hour? I'm gonna look at a dbkiller first, then maybe a powersurge or similar. I might even try installing an o2 sensor and the wet map switch to see if there's any favourable config There's quite a significant clutch drag on this bike, i've found out.. Any ideas what the usual cause would be? Clutch needs bleeding? Wrong oil in gbox affecting the plates? Notches on the basket fingers? Can you guys make your headlight and brake light work without the engine on (ie ignition on, but start/stop switch in the stop position)?
  6. What sort of riding do you do offroad? I've just started to go smaller, changing down from a yz426 and wr400 to a te310 and wr250.. In contrast my regular riding buddy went up from a Husaberg 400 to a husky 510 with a recluse clutch. Odd thing is, I now find it a lot easier and that i'm quite a bit quicker on our usual tight rocky trails. If I screw the nuts off em I find I can keep up with the boys on the bigger stuff really quite well - both me and my mate are massively in agreement that the newbies that have joined us, with only-road-riding experience, would be best off on the wr250.. Bigger bikes just have too much power, and the riders too little experience in getting it to the ground.. Essentially if you can only put 20bhp into the ground the rest ends up as roost, wheelspin, instability and works constantly to put the beginner on the deck
  7. Took my wr250x yam and my 2009 TE310 out on the trails today for a bit of a compare and I did fond the te a very different beast. It's had a load of mods done, afaik: O2 sens removed, throttle stop removed, sounds like no airbox lid, noisy Husqvarna exhaust. No idea if the fuel map is altered Onto the questions: It feels a little more poppy/bangy than I'd expect and the fuelling seems to be either on or off at low revs, like there's a savage "fuel cutoff on overrun", a touch of throttle and it barks up with quite a surge, might not be what I want on a tricky descent.. Can this be changed? Is it a map thing? A lack of O2 sens thing? When cruising at medium low speeds on pavement it feels like it surges/lulls a lot more than the yam, like the computer can't decide how much fuelling to do. Anything I can do to even out ge ride? What can I do to make it quieter? I've never heard a te run before but at WOT I can't hear myself think on this thing. I can fit both thumbs side by side in the exhaust exit- Was the exhaust modded or changed for a race can? It's very very hard to find neutral, feels like the selector forks are made of bendy plastic - you push the gear lever progressively and it feels springy/squidgy then stops and.. Push a bit mire and ClickItsIntoTheNextGear really quickly. In comparison the yam feels firm right off, bit of resistance then "rolls" into the next gear. It feels to me like the clutch is dragging a bit, though it doesn't seem to be pushing to set off when sat stationary. Seems easier to find neutral when rolling slowly to a stop, which makes me think it's clutch drag. Should I try bleeding it or is thus just how husky boxes are? Onthe subject of the gearbox, the ratios on this box feel more like my old yz426 motocrosser rather than my wr400 enduro.. I thought the TE was the enduro version so I was expecting wider gear spacing.. Is this normal for a TE? The speedo on this bike shows E41E for a second when the bike is powered up.. I've read a mix of stuff, that it's an error code, that it's a coolant sensor fault, an o2 sensor fault, that its an indicator that the speedo unit is configured for use on a TE (and when on an SM model it shows S41E).. Anyone know the script? Thanks guys Ps sorry for bad spelling. Fat fingers on an iPhone
  8. by stanchion I meant outer tube...
  9. The chrome slider on the brake side. Stanchions are both fine.. I just couldnt quite be bothered to split the fork apart and fit another tube.. but if you reckon part 3 in the below pics is interchangeable between forks (and worth the hassle)...
  10. Fix all the things I broke last time I was out!
  11. Is there anyone out there who has properly dynoed a bike before and after EXUP removal? Maybe I should borrow my mate's dyno and give it a go..
  12. Sorry, by exup, i meant AIS Fairly sure my bike still has the exup.. And it's supposed to be better for increasing low end torque Hmm.. I'll have a think on the fuel prommer; FMF or PCV? I see in the UK we can get a PCV clone by twobrothers that allows dynamic switching of maps, even with gear.. I've been thinking about a Microsquirt; think most people are put off by the complexity so I've only ever found one other person mentioning that theyre gonna fit it to their bike..
  13. Having bent the forks on my 03 WR, Ive found forks from a 98 WR400 and a 02 YZ426 in a local breaker's yard, but which fork is closer to the ones I've bent? Dimension-wise they are the same, but I don't know about the internal valving etc Cheers
  14. When you say "to the top of the engine gear" do you mean the bike was so full of oil that the camshafts were floating in it? Cause that would sure cause a lot of problems... Refer to your manual for the oil change and refill procedure,and fill level
  15. ive read a couple of people saying that they can loft their wr250r front wheel with power only in gears 1 and 2, clutch it up in 3.. ive seen a yotube vid of a guy popping it up in 5th (standing on the pax pegs) with what seems a relatively small sprocket.. i can power mine up in first, but not far enough that i can keep it up into second.. the bike is set up thus: 12 48 sprockets flapper removed exup removed my 220lb arse sat as far back as i can.. stock muffler 18inch knobby on the rear is it a technique thing, or is there some power gain to be had that i'll need? this bike seems to have plenty when i start screwing the nuts off it, cos the 450+ owners i ride with dont leave me behind. and i dont have any problem skipping the front over any puddles that jump out.. i just struggle to lift the front. should i strap a bag of rocks to the rear fender as a learning tool?
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