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About mattman122

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  1. mattman122

    YZ 250 Gearing for Woods

    I have ran a 13/50 for the last year on my YZ and felt that I ran out of gears too fast especially on open straights and grass track sections. I have a cut head, JD kit, 8oz FWW, Vforce3, Rekluse and running the GYTR factory fatty with shorty silencer. I never seem to have an issue in the tight single track but I typically run a gear high to save energy. I just put a 14 front on last night for a HS this weekend that should be about 80/20 tight single track/open grass track so it should be a solid test for the 14/50
  2. mattman122

    YZ/YZF triple clamp comparability

    80 bucks is what they quoted. I probably could have had it done locally cheaper, but i know Clayton does a top notch job so to me there was no other choice
  3. mattman122

    YZ/YZF triple clamp comparability

    I went ahead and purchased a set of clamps from a new 450 with the adjustable mounts for 150 shipped. I sent the top clamp today to Trick Eng in TX to have them bored 2m. Ill post pics when they come back next week sometime
  4. Found a brand new set of triple clamps from a 2014 YZ250F pretty well priced. Anyone know if these will fit my 08 YZ? From my understanding these are 22mm offset as opposed to stock YZ 25mm
  5. mattman122

    KDX 220 Dies when it gets hot

    Yeah, this was my initial thought also and we did everything you just mentioned. Weird thing is, the bike can sit on a stand and idle for days, even revving it up. Its when you put it in gear and ride it that it just dies with no sputter or any sign of a problem, just dies. When I rode it last (before changing CDI), I didnt even make a hard pull on it when I was riding it down the driveway as the bike wasnt even fully warmed up to optimum temp. I have not checked the timing, but I wouldnt think that a timing issue would act like this, in my mind a timing issue would cause it to run badly all the time?
  6. mattman122

    KDX 220 Dies when it gets hot

    Well, new CDI did not do the trick. I guess new Stator is next on the list unless anyone else has another idea
  7. mattman122

    YZ 125 18” Rear Wheel

    I just laced up a 18 for my 125, putting a Kenda Washougal DCII on it with heavy duty tube. Should have bike ready to ride in a week or so ill report back
  8. mattman122

    KDX 220 Dies when it gets hot

    Ordered a CDI off Ebay as it was cheaper than a stator. All I can do is try it and see.
  9. mattman122

    KDX 220 Dies when it gets hot

    So I was able to ride the bike the other day. I warmed it up for a minute or two then went to ride it down the driveway and sure enough it just died with no warning I wouldnt even say the bike was "hot" yet. I tried to kick it and it never would fire. Put it back on the stand, replaced the brake pads and tried to fire it up again and it fired right up... So, yeah Id say it happened to me after about 2 minutes total from first start to riding under power. I think I will order a new stator today if I can find one cheap on ebay, and also have to get a puller. Ill also check the timing I agree on the new piston, I ordered one today. The only other thing, my dad replaced the stock rear fender (it dry rotted...) with a new "MX" style. He taped up the wire from the tail light and put them in the air box. Any chance the wires are shorting and causing the bike to ground out? just a thought. Didnt mean not to reply to this post, I honestly forgot I posted it lol.
  10. mattman122

    Enduro Fork setup YZ125

    So I am in the process of rebuilding my YZ125 and will be putting my suspension from a 06 YZ250 on it which has been revalved by Enzo. The 125 will be ridden on pretty rocky single track. I have the forks apart for a refresh so figure I might as well get a baseline valving setup. Here’s what I currently have Base 32x.4 Piston 32x.1 (20) 28x.1 26x.1 24x.1 22x.1 18x.1 16x.1 14x.1 12x.1 20x1.5 17x1.5 11x.2 Rebound/mid 11x.2 12x.1 14x.1 16x.1 18x.1 13x.1 20x.1 (4) Piston 20x.1 (4) 16x.1 14x.1 10x.3 11x.3 11x.2 17x.3 (2) Sleeve Collar/spring im not sure exactly how to measure the float but compared to my 250 the Mid setup was strange. Again, just looking for any suggestion on a baseline off-road set up. I have no clue what springs are in it so I figure I’ll order a new, known, set for my weight
  11. mattman122

    Can someone take a look at this stack

    C-P, I have not checked the float height, I will do that this evening.
  12. mattman122

    Can someone take a look at this stack

    I did make a mistake in reading my writing, went out and checked this morning, it actually goes 2 x 17X.3 10X.1 3 x 20X.1 18X.1 Piston
  13. mattman122

    Can someone take a look at this stack

    Thanks for the help that makes sense as for the Mid, I took it apart tonight and it is as follows Cup Washer 8x.1 (between sleeve and cup washer) sleeve/spring 2 x 12X.3 10X.1 3 x 20X.1 18X.1 Piston 3 x 20X.1 12x.1 18x.1 16x.1 14x.1 12x.1 10x.25 16x1.5 nut
  14. mattman122

    Can someone take a look at this stack

    What you are describing is exactly what I feel, going into a corner it will randomly dive then just like you said if I hit a rock while braking it’s a very harsh hit. A few months ago I raced a harescramble on a river bottom so it was super sandy and whooped out. I had front end dive issues bad there, which I would take was from the low speed being soft.
  15. mattman122

    Can someone take a look at this stack

    Ok, so I understand what the crossover is and it’s function within the stack. I have 4 32mm shims which would be my LS then my crossover into my HS stack which consist of 7 32mm before it begins stepping down. I would expect the HS to need to be stiffer obviously but is the LS to soft on this setup? Would this setup work if I focused on the midvalve like you mentioned? Obviously every rider is different, I’m just trying to wrap my head around the theory on all of this