Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


1 Follower

About DaveJ

  • Rank
    Get Help Now

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If you want a better resolution of this image, or a copy of an Excel file that will allow you to do a three way comparison, inputting rod diameter, pressure, reservoir volume, and spring rate and pre-load, email us at info@smartperformanceinc.com. Disclaimer: Everything is subject to change if we find we made a mistake somewhere. We'll post updates if we have them. EDIT: Sorry...got some spelling errors in here. We'll get them fixed.
  2. DaveJ

    Fix for 2016 YZ450F off-set

    We have one sitting in the shop at the moment, zero hours, that will never see dirt. It's going to be in tiny little pieces in the next few days, but I will most likely not be swinging a leg over one for at least another week or so. Bottom line...everything chassis and suspension comes with a compromise. 25mm off set will work better for some applications, and a 20 or 22 will work better for others. Adjustability will always be key, hence the beauty of the XTRIG. I'm working with some guys over the next month that will help to shed some more light on the 25 vs 22 vs 20 debate. Lastly, keep in mind that well behaving bikes are created from comprehensive designs. The answers are in the details and any set-up is only as fast as its weakest link. In other words, no offset setting will ever make up for fork or shock that is not tuned correctly. Hope this helps.
  3. Yamaha has released the 2016 YZ450F with a 25mm off-set. Based on testing in the U.S. and Europe, the bike handles better with either a 20mm or 22mm off-set. The recommendation is to revert back to the 22mm 2014-15 clamp system or switch to the 20-22mm adjustable off-set XTRIG ROCS system. I would assume that RIDE Engineering and others will also be releasing a fix shortly. OEM The 22mm upper clamp is part number 1SL-23435-00-00. Available at Rocky Mountain ATV for $123.19 The 22mm lower clamp is part number 33D-23340-00-00. Available at Rocky Mountain ATV for $402.15. LINK: Rocky Mountain Parts Schematic Note: ThumperTalk is currently not showing parts for 2014 thru 2016 Yamahas. Note: The bar clamps are interchangeable between the 2015 and 2016. Note: The 2016 YZ250F and YZ250FX are not effected by this problem. XTRIG The XTRIG ROCS clamp is a 20-22mm system, available for 22 or 28mm bars, flex or rigid mount. LINK: XTRIG 20-22mm 2016 YZ450F ROCS Additional Details and Test Rider Input on the 25mm offset First Ride 2016 YZ450F - Dirt Rider Magazine Transworld MX First Test - Input from Rich Taylor VITAL MX - First Impressions - Users
  4. Okay...cool. I'll see what I can do. Thanks!
  5. Nothing yet on the PSF-2. When you say conversion, do you mean converting away from air as a spring and using a metal spring to hold the bike up?
  6. DaveJ

    Need A YZ450F Suspension Guru

    Okay...so anything is possible. What really matters here is what problem you are trying to solve and what is the best way to solve it. Or perhaps you just want to experiment or throw some money at the suspension and see what happens. But...keep in mind that the bones on your 2007 is damn good stuff...and there isn't going to be any magical conversions from switching over to a 2010 or 2015 or whatever fork.
  7. Cool thread. Okay...I want to make sure that we divide what is real dyno data to that of what is produced with ReStackor. Are we cool with that? Actually, I don't mind either way. We can call software simulation or math a dyno if we want. But...I just want to make sure that we understand the difference. Additionally, dyno data is going to be limited not because of the short supply of dynos, but because of the fact that most dynos can't replicate displacement and velocities like what we see in the real off-road world. So...I hope we have other "dynos" to consider....right?
  8. You might have missed my post where I went back to this and gave him some advice on where I think he should start.
  9. You need to let this go. I don't owe you a 100 page explanation on anything. I even reserve the right to post half-ass answers if I so choose. I'm not being paid to put information out here. There were things in those earlier posts that you didn't seem to understand, (that could have been me, that could have been you) and with that I offered to call you and help and then you declined my offer...and now you're back here bitching at me for not giving out more information. Let that go and let's move on. I'll try and do a better job covering some of these topics in the future.
  10. You're right. I should have been a bit more detailed with my numbers.
  11. I completely understand and obviously I get what you are saying. Let me get some numbers together and we'll look at those. Thanks for a detailed post.
  12. DaveJ

    Really dark fork oil !

    Bingo. New, old...doesn't matter. And getting all the stuff that is sitting down at the bottom of the fork is really hard to do. So...you pour in new oil and all it does it stirs up the old dirt. Trust me. If you properly clean the insides, polish the tubes and springs, you're discoloration problem will go away.
  13. DaveJ

    Would I benefit from a Revalve?

    Cool. I get it. Thanks! By the way, Factory Connection doesn't make big changes. They play it safe...and they have very good customer service...which is a great business model. There are also a marketing machine and they have also done a ton of good stuff for the sport. I have the utmost respect for them. But I do agree, that the production stuff, well maintained, is a great starting point.
  14. Just to help you with the math....a .800 reduction in height is basically an inch. That was the only point that I was making. I didn't think that someone would be following me around sniffing my ass, looking for every opportunity to be an antagonist. Lastly, you don't know jack sh*t about what SMART Performance is...and even if it was a garage shop, why would that matter? Apple started in a garage, so did HP. In fact, there are a lot of very famous race engine builders that currently operate out of a garage. But just for the record, we are at 805 University Ave, Los Gatos, Ca. Unit H. 95032. We have set-up over 3,000 bikes. We have bikes that have raced in Supercross and National mains, multiple bikes at Loretta's every year, we have an endless list of TT reviews by users that claim their SMART Performance set-ups are the best they have ever ridden, we have a first place title win in SCORE, (in fact we ran third overall in the Baja 1000), we have run Dakar, and...what the hell...we have a 100% perfect score on eBay with 500 reviews. We are also the third largest buyer of KYB parts in North America. We have drop rigs, flow benches, GET, and high speed video systems that can run at 1200FPS. I personally have two degrees (Cal Poly SLO) that cover computer science, mechanical engineering, physics and business and I have two very senior business partners that make me look like a chump. We also also have 6 contract engineers working on suspension stuff and most likely looking to hire two more. So...just how stupid and two man garage shop do you think we are? Do you really want to talk about .4 vs .8 vs. 1.0? Is that really what's bothering you?
  15. DaveJ

    Showa Shock Piston Band

    This is one those things were I strongly disagree with Race Tech. When you attempt to smooth out a piston, using a flat plate and your hand, the piston will inherently tilt as you move back and fourth, and that rounds the edges. If for some reason you really wanted to face a piston, then it needs to be done on a really good lathe or mill, with a proper jig. Additionally, most pistons I measure are near perfect. So...I don't understand the need. As for ring ODs, those numbers are all over the place. Glide ring fit is far from perfect and we have done a lot of work in the past with looking for better and more perfect numbers. In other words, a re-sizing tool is the best you can do, and then its just a matter of throwing it in there. However, THAT doesn't mean that there isn't room for improvement..and that can be made with different material, machine work, different o-rings...etc. And of course, it's all about compromise - friction vs. sealing...etc. The stock band sucks, but for production stuff that needs to last a decade or more of abuse, it does the job very well.