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stavendirtbike

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About stavendirtbike

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    stavendirtbike

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    Connecticut
  1. stavendirtbike

    Motion Pro Uni-Sag Accuracy

    I will be trying the vertical method and comparing how much different the readings are between the two. I will also adjust to the recommended sag via the vertical position and see how the bike responds to it.
  2. stavendirtbike

    Motion Pro Uni-Sag Accuracy

    What bike MTrain? Visit the FC website. They have several photos of different bikes of where the sag measurements should be made. ALL are from the seat bolt! http://www.factoryconnection.com/sag/
  3. stavendirtbike

    Motion Pro Uni-Sag Accuracy

    At this point slowgs2001, I am going off what the suspension builder who actually built and setup my suspension (Factory Connection) for sag measurement technique. It is very annoying getting so many different variables as to vertical vs non vertical measurements. Each suspension builder's how-to's, factory manual instructions, how-to's from fellow riders are all at one end of the spectrum or the other when it comes to this. Quite annoying since it is beat into our heads that SAG IS CRITICAL! My theory: go by either 1. The methods in which your suspension builder uses or 2. The bike's factory service manual method if you don't have suspension revalve or services from an outside company. Ironically, both the Suzuki factory manual method and FC's methods of sag measurement are in agreement; measure from the SEAT BOLT. Also, talking with the Factory Connection rep who was at my local track yesterday, we verified that the sag on both my bikes were spot on at 108 using the good old fashioned tape measure. Again, my Motion Pro tool reads 90. Factory Connection claims they did some testing with Uni-Sag and Solo Sag type tools and found them to just not be anywhere near as accurate as a measuring tape. Too much room for error. Getting on and off the bike causes the tool marker to move slightly (there goes a few mm's). How it mounts into the axle can also have slight movement (there is another few mm's out the window), also, there is some "stiction" within the tool itself. Measuring tape is tried and true. Just need another person there with you.
  4. stavendirtbike

    Motion Pro Uni-Sag Accuracy

    http://www.factoryconnection.com/sag/ What is interesting is FC also recommends the seat bolt for a slight angle as opposed to Race-Tech's vertical approach.
  5. stavendirtbike

    Motion Pro Uni-Sag Accuracy

    I bought the Motion Pro Uni Sag tool a few weeks ago. Great looking tool, easy to setup and all but I am questioning its accuracy. When using this tool on an already known correctly setup suspension, this tool consistently will read too little sag, by quite a bit. Referring to Race Tech or mostly any sag how-to references, most are saying measure to a Vertical distance. The Uni Sag measures are at quite an extreme angle since it mounts to the axle and seat bolt. I will measure vertically with a measuring tape and get correct sag. I will then mount on the Uni Sag and find readings low, way low. Am I doing something wrong? Is the tool indeed inaccurate?
  6. stavendirtbike

    Can a 250 2T be tamed to match that of a 250f?

    Thanks guys. I have always been fond of Suzuki handling and styling. I know the 04 and up RM250 is excellent just like their 125 was. However, from what I have read, the yz250 off the showroom floor has a very tractable power delivery. I know the RM is known for EXPLOSIVE hits do to it's very light flywheel. Certainly going to be between those two bikes. I don't think I can go wrong with either choice.
  7. stavendirtbike

    Can a 250 2T be tamed to match that of a 250f?

    I don't get how you interpreted my post as getting a bike that is slow and boring? I don't like the weight of the 450 nor its handling characteristics. I want a bike to compete in the 250f class but am considering a 250 2T but looking to see other's inputs on controlling how the power is brought on.... this does not mean "slow and boring", it means tractable.
  8. I ride/race 80% of the time at my local club track which is a supercross style track. I own a 2007 RM 144 and a 2009 RMZ 450. I have a blast on my 144 and never plan to sell it. The 450, although a great bike, has proven to be a bit of a handful for me. I feel like the entire time I am taming the beast on the tight supercross sections, lugging that extra weight around, and just overall getting more worn out on it. The 450 is a BLAST on the more motocross style tracks I have ridden it at where you can really unleash the beast. I ride these types of tracks maybe 3-5 times a year. I weigh 140 lbs in street clothes (my 450 is revalved and resprung for my weight). Why not sell it and just keep the 144? Although the 144 is FUN, it is still a LOT of work to try and keep up with the fast competition out there on the 250f's. Modern 250f bikes now with EFI are making excellent power, easy to ride, and have come a long way. I had a 2008 RMZ 250 and a 2001 YZ 250f. Both of those bikes can't compare to the EFI 250f's. Then again, I love not having the engine braking effect, valves to shim, timing chains to replace. I would love an 04-08 RM 250 2 stroke. 250 2 strokes are also allowed to race against the 250f at my club. I am uneasy on buying a used 250f. I am completely confident in buying a used 2 stroke. BUT, the 250 2stroke in stock form can be as much a handful if not more than a 450. I don't want to sell my 450 in favor for another handful of a bike that I have to ride cautiously around the track and wears me out. Can a 250 2 stroke be tamed down to the point where the power is still there and it is just as easy to ride as a 250f? Or, am I better off jumping in at the EFI 250f bikes and calling it a day?
  9. stavendirtbike

    2007 RM 144

    Bought this 2007 RM 125 about 4 years ago and rode it mainly stock, other than the addition of the FMF Fatty, Powercore II, and Vforce reeds. I ride at a fairly technical tight supercross style track and consider myself a top C or slow B rider (I pointed out in C and moved up to B where the competition is much greater). I had lots of fun on this bike as a stock bore but was looking for a bit more. The bike seized on me last year which turned out to be the connecting rod at the crank locking up. Luckily nothing snapped and luckily it happened before a big double! Tore the engine down. Replaced EVERY bearing and seal with OEM suzuki parts. Sent the crank out to Mr. Crankshaft who rebuilt the crank (always send my cranks to him). Sent the cases, cylinder, and head to Eric Gorr for the 144 kit. His work was exceptional. The cases etc came back looking brand new. I went with the "mo-better" porting package and the pump gas head. I rebuilt the carb with a Moose kit and kept my jetting to FMF specs which are a 400 Main (stock is 370), 40 Pilot (stock is 42.5), air screw 1.5 turns out (stock is 2), and the stock needle and clip position (3rd from top). I also sent my suspension to Factory Connection for a full re-valve. I needed a softer rear spring as well since I only weigh 140 lbs and I wasn't able to get the recommended sag out of the OEM spring. I also added a Pro Circuit linkage. For cosmetics I had to go with the trimmed side plates and RMZ front fender and number plate. I send the trimmed panels to K-Rae Graphics and they custom fitted the graphics to the custom side plates. I trimmed them with a circular grinding disk. The front fender proved to be a bit of a challenge. The stock "ears" for the OEM number plate made contact with the RMZ fender. I had to trim the fender for those out. It was somewhat of a pain to line up the two holes for the new fender but I got it to work. I used an Acerbis fender and number plate. Holding up fine. The bike runs awesome. VERY crisp, the jetting is SPOT on! Much more improved. Don't expect 250f like torque... it is still a two stroke and you have to ride it aggressively. The most beneficial part of this was the nice boost in the mid-range. It pulls hard. I tried some of my friend's race fuel mix and it ran even a bit better. I still think the 250f has a good advantage over this bike, at least at the tight track I ride at. Jumps are right out of corners with big gaps. You really have to be on your game to clear these sections. I have a 450 as well, so when I get tired and start to fall off my game, I hop on that =) Bike is a keeper. Looks awesome, runs awesome, handles awesome, and last year of the U.S. Spec RM125. My club track I ride/race at just added a two stroke only class. I will definitely be running it there. As far as running it in the 250f class, it is a handful trying to keep up with the grunt they have out of corners to clear the big doubles and such. Gotta keep riding and improving!
  10. stavendirtbike

    RMZ Front Fender

    Sorry screamer, again, I've been pretty busy. I will get the total price for you later today. I know the Gorr work came to around $500 if I remember. Jetting: Again I will find the specs I wrote down but I used what FMF recommended. I believe everything was the same except I went leaner on the pilot to a 40 from a 42.5. The bike runs AWESOME. Very crisp absolutely no issues with the 144. Here is a video of me running it yesterday. My buddy on the KTM 250SX killing it and I'm going pretty slow just dialing in my suspension. You can hear how crisp the exhaust sounds. I usually run pump 93 gas but that day my buddy let me try some 110 =). The revalve is awesome. I will post a new thread soon with pics and everything I did for this project over the winter.
  11. stavendirtbike

    RMZ Front Fender

    Forgive me, been away for a bit.... enjoying this 144 too much! Absolutely well worth it. Bike is a BLAST to ride. More bottom, EXPLOSIVE mid, revs a bit further up top. I did not have to make any jetting changes. Currently sent the suspension out to factory connection for a full re-valve. All that extra power had me pushing the stock suspension even further and I was not liking it lol.
  12. stavendirtbike

    RMZ Front Fender

    Great mod. Also trimmed up the side panels to look a bit more modern like the RMZ. 144 Eric Gorr kit installed and did a full rebuild. Can't WAIT to ride this thing. More excited to ride this than my 450. Will post some pics once I get my custom backgrounds put on the trimmed plates and new RMZ front plate
  13. stavendirtbike

    Torquing Flywheel Nut

    This Worked! Silent Echo, I'm sure the impact wrench would *work* here but I'm very picky when it comes to crap like this lol. BTW, that special Suzuki flywheel holder tool is $100+
  14. stavendirtbike

    Torquing Flywheel Nut

    Just did a top end and new timing chain on my 2009 RMZ450. Unlike most dirt bikes I have worked on, my motion pro flywheel holder does not work on this RMZ. Most flywheels have two holes to insert the tool for holding unlike the RMZ450. I got it off easily via an impact wrench. I am thinking getting it back on with the impact wrench is a big no-no. Is the only option here the specific Suzuki flywheel holder that is listed in the manual? Also, no room to get a strap wrench around the flywheel.
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