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Drz Charlie

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About Drz Charlie

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  • Interests
    Ride, eat, drink, rinse, repeat

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  1. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    Thanks for the input rjg.
  2. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    I sure understand about operator error...ha. Your opinion is noted and valued. Thanks. Race tech states that they can install gold valves in the 2000 forks, and rebuild with new parts for $450 and the rear for $400 plus shipping and taxes. All based on my riding weight and average load carried on the bike. Average load is going to be elusive. About 220# of rider, and probably another 20# for AGATT and a hydration pack. Add into that the wet weight of the bike farkled up. I suppose we all add another 8-10# of stuff like tank bag, gps, tail bag, tools etc. But when camping off the bike which I do a lot I add another 24# of gear (actual weight). I have static and racing sag set now. I understand the concept and shouldn't have trouble with it when I get suspension parts back. For me spending $1k is a lot better than spending more for another bike based on shear economics (or lack of). I just want the bike to be better behaved and stay more firmly planted in turns. In addition these old bones need less pounding so I can extend my riding career. I'm open to more thoughts on this so please, if you're reading give me your two cents worth.
  3. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    Ok, I think I have decided to keep the DRZ. Now for tougher questions. 1. I know that I suck miserably at fork set up though I am comfortable (seemingly so) with my current forks. I currently (due to being inseam challenged) have the forks raised by nearly 3/4". I want them resprung and revalved for my weight plus camping gear. Since this is a stock 2000 S it has very basic forks. Do I need to upgrade the forks to a something later than 2004 and then have them revalved/resprung? 2. The rear was set up by Sasquatch 4 years ago. I was never satisfied with the work but lived with it. What should be done with the rear stock/modified shock? It is also a 2000. Does this need an upgrade as well? 3. Do I do the work myself? I'm thinking not because I don't have the correct tools though I have the mechanically ability. 4. If I send the shock/forks out to be rebuilt who do I use? Racetech seems to be the go to here on TT but are they the best/cheapest/do I get what I pay for? Hit me back and help me make some decisions.
  4. Drz Charlie

    How many miles on your DRZ, and what has gone wrong?

    86,754 as of this morning. Second engine as I flogged the life out of the first one on Baxter Pass, Colorado. That one had 78K on it. What's gone wrong? 5 stators in the two engines (one already in this engine). I also suffered a burned wiring harness and ignition switch due to faulty wiring (harness rubbed through and the fuse didn't blow because the PO had a 40 amp fuse as the main). Other than that, normal wear and maintenance including wheel bearings, speedometer cable, swing arm maintenance, new head bearings. Overall pretty good service considering how hard the first engine was used.
  5. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    TxTiger, it's the same ride Tony Huegel developed with some minor changes for old farts.
  6. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    I change fork oil once a season, The rear shock was rebuilt by Sasquatch two years ago and sprung for my weight. Valving is mostly non-existent in the 2000 forks so I know that is an issue. Also, I ride a lot of gravel, two track and up until my latest accident, single track. As such I air down to 14# in the front and 16-18#'s in the rear. That helps a lot but still the front pushes badly. This is especially true in mud and on freshly graded gravel. Someone above mentioned weight forward in the turns. Yeah, I do that and have been doing it for a long time. I think for me flexibility is becoming an issue as well. I do Tai Chi daily to counter the effects of age but eventually age will win. I am leaning toward trying the MX21 as many have suggested for the front.
  7. Drz Charlie

    Help with Front end push - DRZ 400 S

    Great responses all! Thanks so much for the information. As a sidebar I do run a fork brace and have for sometime now. Interesting comments about the 2007 forks. I may start looking for a set. As I said my problem is mainly financial at this point so purchases come slower than i'd like. Keep the thoughts coming, this is a great thread for me to learn more from.
  8. I have a 2000 Drz "S". It now has 86,000 k on the odometer. I've rebuilt the engine twice in that time and it still runs great. This is my "go to" bike for dirt and gravel. Since I'm getting older now (64) and find the bike is gaining weight (curious). I know my time with the DRZ is limited due to weight. I want to hang with the bike for another couple of years before I opt into a WR250 or something similar that has less weight. As the second owner of the bike (purchased in 2002) I've always had troubles with front end push. The SAG is set correctly and the rear shock is sprung for my weight (210#). I run D606's on the bike and have for the last 6 years. Corners on fast gravel can be a real adventure if you aren't prepared for it. In really rough stuff the front end does not stay planted. This was my undoing while riding in Wisconsin on the Wisconsin Adventure trail this last summer. I wrecked badly and had a two month hiatus from riding as a result. I considered a Scotts Stabilizer to help keep the front end planted but the cost of the stabilizer and the mount is prohibitive to a retired career military guy. I am planning on riding the Great Western Route in September of 2014 with friends. This is a 20 day track that is benign, gnarly and extreme all rolled into one. It has baby head rocks, deep bull dust, deep sand and anything thing else you think of of to add to the mix. That said, I want to correct the push condition. I love the D606 on the back because it wears well. but also know that the 606 on the front is part of my problem with front end push. I'd like some help sorting through possible fixes. If you have a set up that works please tell me your weight, indicate how you are set up, the parts/tires you used and why it works well for you. Thanks for the help.
  9. Drz Charlie

    upper subframe through bolt

    According to the torque spec sheet it's 25.5 foot #'s
  10. Drz Charlie

    Integrated my blinkers in to my hand guards

    I have the exact set of brush guards and had my signals in similar to what you did The down side to doing it that way is if you end up spinning your brush gaurds on the bars. This results in the signal lights wiring being snapped or pulled out of the lights. I did it. You could put a loop in to prevent that though.
  11. Drz Charlie

    Helmet thoughts?

    AFX FX-39 Reasonable cost, lightweight and feels good.
  12. Drz Charlie

    Dead Stator part cinq

    Check post #49 above.
  13. Drz Charlie

    Dead Stator part cinq

    I tore the DRZ down again today and cleaned the carb. All I got was a very small piece of dirt out of the main jet. That was enough to cause problems. It's running great again. It took 3 hours from start to stop to clean the carb, glad I know this bike as well as I do. Damn I hope that's all I have to do for a while.
  14. Drz Charlie

    Dead Stator part cinq

    It's been a full year I guess. Yeah, I know it can't hurt to look at it and clean it up. I'm just on DRZ repair overload...
  15. Drz Charlie

    Dead Stator part cinq

    I'm happy to report that my Ricky Stator stator is working fine. It's output on the voltmeter is 14.4 - 14.5 volts constant under load. I did however have other problems on todays ride. I have a high speed stumble present. Anything over 40 MPH and the bike stumbles. My first thought is that I have dirt in a jet. But I use a tank sock filter to put gas in the tank (the tank is clean inside) and an inline pre-filter between the tank and the carb. The bike sat two weeks during the process of ordering waiting and installing the new stator. I'm guessing whether it's bad or gelled fuel from alcohol fuel (which was my last tank). Thoughts anyone?
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