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About eastreich

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  1. eastreich

    thermostat? fan setting?

    Pretty much. You can also run into issues as vibrations will eventually cause wear between the aluminum fins and the thermocouple insert. I have seen ONE extreme case where a hole was worn in the fins from the blade insert and a resulting leak (and radiator replacement) was required. Also, environmental conditions can have an effect on them. Again, it is all relative, as long as you are aware of it (and it seems that you are!). I have looked at my 450, and I think the only place to install the inline sensor is in the coolant hose going from the head to the T-piece inside the frame. The other option (if a guy has the skills) is to weld a small chunk of billet to the bottom of a radiator then drill and tap to the appropriate NPT size to stick the thermocouple into the radiator (like it was for OEM right side radiators on some past EXC models). If you look at the picture below of the Trail Tech Digital Fan kit with it's blade temp sensor above the fan, you can see the stock plug in the NPT port below the fan in the bottom radiator tank that could have been used for an immersed sensor (and was used on past KTMs for the OEM fan switch).
  2. eastreich

    expert BRP advice

    I've spent way too much time in the lab, and playing with the polisher/etching/microscopes. From when I put in my first HRC piston (2002) everything I had at my disposal in the lab (I'm a metallurgical engineer), and with the technology available at the time for manufacturing if this was a forged piston Honda was losing a LOT money at $225 retail for each slug. The HRC piston has a much lesser density than any off the shelf forged piston someone can buy, whether that is a Wiseco, JE, etc... with properties that are much closer to a cast piston. I do not know who made the piston for HRC, but if you do find a Mahle piston it doesn't look like this. Then again, this is Honda/HRC and they don't do things the way anyone else does. It wouldn't be the first time Honda has taken a loss on something just to do show they can. At the time winning in Baja was of the utmost importance to Japan, similar in how hard they are trying to win Dakar now.
  3. eastreich

    Front tire - destroyed

    Tire pressure is absolutely a factor. On 2 of the same tires, the tire with lower pressure equals more carcass flex which will tear knobs faster, ESPECIALLY if the knobs are stiffer as in the case of a MX32, MX3S, or similar tire...
  4. eastreich

    thermostat? fan setting?

    Just a thing to remember, the little fin insert that Trail Tech uses is NOT all that accurate. If you have it set to 200, your coolant temp is actually higher. It can give you a consistent reading, but it isn't accurate if you know what I mean. If you really want the temp to be accurate with the Trail Tech stuff, you need to use the inline water temp probes that you splice into one of the coolant hoses. Definitely not as convenient, and the billet splice piece does not have the best ridges to stay in place if you run a coolant system with a higher pressure: case in point on my XR I am running a higher pressure radiator cap and I have had the splice piece come undone on rides. I now check it every other ride just to see if it is starting to slide out and can then readjust it. It may not be as big of an issue with stock hoses compared to the silicone hoses I run... https://www.trailtech.net/7500-3052
  5. eastreich

    expert BRP advice

    The Lectron is way better than a stock 650L CV carb, and is a slight improvement over the stock 650R PJ (only if you don't know how to jet) IMO. If you are after fuel economy and don't know how to jet, the Lectron is arguably the best choice. If you are after out and out performance on a four stroke, a pumper carb (TM or FCR) will run circles around the Lectron.
  6. On a 450 you need to knock the perf cone out of the center for the PMB spark arrestor to fit in there, which is why they don't specifically list it to fit the 450. Every time I have been checked, they have looked at the perf cone and said "looks good," even though it really isn't legal.
  7. eastreich

    Honda Back In Flattrack (factories returning)

    It is not necessarily easier to be that much lighter. Lots of wheel spin where a little lead in your back side can help with hook up. You obviously don't want to be a fat guy like me, though... Her older brother Cory also races pro flat track.
  8. eastreich

    2018 450 XC-F Service Manual

    ebay is your friend. I picked up a manual for my Husky from this guy. Same book, a few different pictures. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-Service-Workshop-Shop-Repair-Manual-Book-2018-450-SX-F/223366868237?hash=item3401b3ed0d:g:6sIAAOSwRuFZ35gr:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
  9. eastreich

    Honda Back In Flattrack (factories returning)

    Shayna Texter. She was semi-factory Husky for 2018. Her bike was a testing ground for the upcoming factory KTMs. If only she could do decent on TT courses, as the terrible results on those is what is keeping her from being the singles champion. She can win any race when they only turn left.
  10. eastreich

    Honda Back In Flattrack (factories returning)

    Have to start somewhere. Good on Honda, and they will be competing against factory KTMs in the AFT singles class. KTM is planning to use the singles as a jumping point to eventually put the new 800 Duke into the AFT twins class, so let's see how far Honda is willing to go. Honda could probably do some work with an Africa Twin engine to use for the Twins class, but that is not going to happen right out of the gate. Need to give them some time to ease back into it. It has been a long time since the Bubba Shobert/Ricky Graham/RS750 days, and if American Honda can get back into flat track after 25 years off there is hope that they could do the same with Superbikes.
  11. eastreich

    Front Rotor for XR650R

    I've used the standard Braking (non-floating, wave, stock diameter) and it was fine. As good as stock, better than a Tusk or EBC IMO.
  12. eastreich

    expert BRP advice

    I won't disagree. I only run riveted chains on my 650R, although I am using the XV2 Pro now instead of the ERV-3.
  13. eastreich

    Rm 125 conversion kits

    And if Suzuki is really going through with this... https://www.motorsport.com/motogp/news/suzuki-racing-company/4337767/ ...maybe this stuff isn't just going to be a pipe dream. I will still only believe it when I see it, as Suzuki has fallen a long ways. But there is only one way to go, and that is up. I wish them well, as more competition is good for everyone. If they can get the MotoGP side all in order (that is obviously the priority destination for their Yen) then it can free up some cash for the dirt bike side eventually.
  14. eastreich

    Rm 125 conversion kits

    That is why I said "similar." I said what I did because for the most part everything else is completely interchangeable on all of the models (fuel tanks, radiators, etc....) Even on newer Japanese bikes that may use the same shrouds and seats between 250/450Fs someone will not be able to interchange radiators, fuel tanks, etc... as the main spars of the frame are different from model to model and those pieces are bespoke to each bike displacement. As to the original topic for the Zook twinkie, if Suzuki is going to make a 125 smoker that you can drop into a 250F chassis they are going to need to make new cases for the twinkie that will make the swingarm pivot correct and line up the engine mounts for the 250F cradle. And in the end you are having a cradle that is designed to hold a much heavier engine. This will result in the cradle being much stiffer than it needs to be for good feel on the 125. If Suzuki was smart, they just make a new cradle that they can use on the assembly line to go with the 250F main spars and headtube. You will get a lot closer to the feel that the 125 needs AND you will sell more bikes total.
  15. eastreich

    Rm 125 conversion kits

    The flex characteristics of the lower frame cradle, and in how said engines bolt into the cradle, result in the differences you feel. Biggest difference in feel is going to be in where the Y of the cradle starts (to go around the exhaust) and then the angles of the lower cradle as they wrap around the bottom of the engine. This will be vastly different for each "family" of engines and result in a different feel to the chassis even with the rest being identical. The shape of the cradle will also impact how the main backbone of the frame flexes.