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kdsd731

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About kdsd731

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    California
  1. Here is a video of the spark. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILlx9GC2AUk
  2. I have a 2003 DR650ES and I had no spark. I diagnosed it and found the pick up coil bad. The entire stator assembly was replaced with a new one (RM Stators). I tried starting it and found it to not start. I have spark, fuel (clean carb), and compression (120psi). I supplied fuel directly into the cylinder and tried starting with no luck as well. I checked my spark again and I have spark, however, It seems as if it's not sparking on the compression stroke. While cranking there is about a solid 1 second count between spark on both plug wires. Would a bad CDI be the cause of this? I imagine it should be virtually a consistent string of sparks while cranking.
  3. I can't for life of me get the starter motor out of the cases. I pull it out of the left case and the bottom rear of the starter motor hits the top of the right side case. I can't figure out how to shimmy it out of there? Anyone know any tricks? Stupid question but I can't get it. And I've worked on many bikes and have never had an issue removing a starter.
  4. Well, I figured it out. It was the bad carb mid seal causing the entire issue. Luckily I had a 99 WR400F come in for a carb clean so I swapped the carb and it ran great. I tried to reseal it with a fuel resistant sealant since no o-ring is available for this model carb but it didn't work. Time for a new carb. I'm sure the guy had to put a 52 pilot to compensate for a bad mid body seal just starting to fail. Thanks for the input guys.
  5. Wouldn't the bad slide plate seal make it idle unstable and rpm's hang and not require the idle screwed all the way in and seem extremely lean? Also, no one gave a response to my question about the carb bodies leaking seal possibly causing the lean condition by not creating the vacuum needed to pull fuel through the pilot circuit. Would that be a logical explanation? I know the faulty carb body seal needs to be addressed but would that be the most likely cause?
  6. I know the pilot jet is too large. I picture it being a 45 or 48 ideally. It had the 52 in it already. I just started drilling out it to just see what it would do with more fuel. I don't see the harm in drilling the pilot in a pinch if you know the size micro drill bit you need. But anyhow, jet size aside. I cannot for the life of me figure out why it's behaving so lean. I suspected an air leak but cannot find one. The hot start on this model is a remote knob attached to the frame and connects a hose from the air box to the intake manifold. I have verified it does not leak air when shut off or at either hose connection. This last time into the carburetor however, I did notice that after I sprayed carb cleaner in the pilot circuit and blew it out with the compressor that the silicon joint that connects the upper carb body to the lower carb body (the part that you never should separate-the carb halves) bubbled a little bit. You think this could be causing my lean condition by not creating enough vacuum through the pilot circuit to draw enough fuel? I'm just surprised the carb cleaner didn't spike the rpms when spraying the carb if that is it. What part are you talking about exactly?
  7. I'm working on a 99 YZ400 that was just purchased. Told that it was parked in good running condition and has been sitting for a couple years. What I've done: Flushed the fuel Replaced the petcock Cleaned the carburetor (it's spotless and every passage is clear and squirts carb cleaner through it)Replaced the needle valve/seat Replaced the float bowl gasket Service foam filter Checked valve clearances (good) Checked leak down (8%) Just to start off, I am motorcycle technician by profession. After my initial repairs, it started 1st kick with the choke. But it would die instantly without the choke. Didn't matter how far out the fuel screw was or how high the idle was. I then double checked my pilot circuit. It's spotless. The pilot is a 52 which is big already. I raised the float height to spec and tried idling again but it still stalled but ran a second or two before stalling now. I raised the float height as high as it will allow and it idles extremely rough and lean now with the idle almost maxed out. I then drilled the pilot to a size 58. The bike now idles but is still very lean and idle is still adjusted to far in. I squirted carb cleaner all over the manifold, gasket areas and anywhere an air leak could be and found none.There is no way I am going to install a larger pilot. Something is wrong. Any ideas?
  8. The slide plate is in good condition and is installed correctly.
  9. I'm working on a 2004 YZ250F that a relative has picked up from someone recently. It has major idle problem's with out the choke. The carb is absolutely spotless and every passage squirts a good flow carb cleaner, especially the idle circuit. The fuel is fresh as well. This carb has a power wing plate welded in the intake side. I have tried jets ranging from 38 to 52 with no significant change in performance. I am at almost full idle with the adjuster to get it to roughly idle without the choke. Once again the pilot circuit is 100% clean. I have verified the valve clearances are good, the timing is good and leak down is good. I am stumped. Any ideas?
  10. kdsd731

    Weird spark issue on 07 Raptor 350

    How do I go about adding the 10% discount to the order?
  11. kdsd731

    KX450F fuel pump issues

    Thanks guys. I ended up determining the stator becomes faulty when hot. So a new stator fixed the issue.
  12. kdsd731

    Weird spark issue on 07 Raptor 350

    I have checked the continuity through the run/stop switch and it passed. Right now the switch is just dangling off the bars. Actaully, yes it was. My customer doesn't have much money and wanted to get an aftermarket one off ebay. That is interesting. I was unaware that a few out there do not work on this bike. I actually still felt it could be the stator even before you told me that. What would you do? This is the stator installed now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/160833191030?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  13. I am completely stumped. I am working on an 07 Raptor 350. It has a intermittent spark. However, the spark only shows up occasionally when releasing the start button. It never sparks when cranking. Only occasionally when releasing the start button after attempting to start. I have replaced the stator, swapped CDI's, swapped batteries, swapped ignition coils, checked ground continuity for the CDI and the battery, cleaned the ground for the ignition coil, cleaned all connectors, checked continuity between all wires in the ignition circuit and checked power to the CDI. I have become completely stumped. I have no idea where to go from now. I have found several threads started on google for this same issue but no one ever has a solution. Please help!!!
  14. kdsd731

    KX450F fuel pump issues

    I'm working on a 2009 KX450F. It runs great until you kill the engine. Then it won't restart for 10 minutes or so. I disconnected the fuel line from the throttle body and noticed when cold, fuel flows out the hose when kicking over the engine. However, I noticed when it won't start, I do the same thing and this time it has no fuel flowing out the hose when kicking the engine over. I added 12v to the pump and it poured fuel. Something isn't sending voltage to the fuel pump when hot.
  15. kdsd731

    Suzuki Help with an LT80

    I am having trouble with a 2005 LT80. It is a very clean quad and is 100% stock except for the oil injection system has been removed and the vaccuum operated petcock has been replaced with a standard Yamaha one. The carb is spotless and has a new o-ring under the main jet. The compression is 120 PSI. The reeds are in good condition. It starts easily with no choke and idles great. The problem is after a long extended wide open run (Sounds great during this by the way) it seems that quite often it will start bogging and stall when I get off the throttle to make a sharp turn. After stalling it starts right back up only if the choke is applied. Once started, if I turn the choke off it is good to go again. I checked the fuel cap vent and it seems to be fine. The fuel level in the tank is above the petcock pick tubes and I'm on reserve. Any ideas why it seems to be sucking the fuel dry? And it only seems to happen when getting off the throttle after a wide open run. My wide open run is a pretty long street in which it doesn't stall during the run until the turn.
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