• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About kxmike87

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. RK MXZ3 light but strong
  2. pull ur brake pedal off and adjust the pedal joint under the master cylinder. it will make ur pedal height higher and then u have more movement to push the piston onto the pads more. i use to do this when my pad would wear out a bit until i replace them.
  3. right there
  4. stock valvetrain isnt up to par. its easier to replace the stockers and get new seats. i did and 4 rides with a break in and they still are the same clearance.
  5. I run straight C-12 and im running a je high comp piston too. just only thing because of the porting and hot cams i had to rejet to a 45 pilot jet and leanest clip position on the needle and it barks real nice when i want power. I dont think ill run 50/50 anymore since C-12 is only $6 a gallon where im getting it and since i have done some mods
  6. depends on ur weigh too. if u weight 150 or under u can run a 120. i did to help me corner better while i was learning how to ride the big bike. but now i run a 90 since i have learned to lean alot better. a 120 will work with very light riders
  7. did he ever get his CDI recalled back to the factory? there is a recall.
  8. Updates or recalls. sounds like your talking about a recall. if they were done before the dealer got the bike you wont be notified really. since its not a recall since you didnt have to take the bike back. But i havent heard anything yet.
  9. honestly everyone on this board should have done that. i know i did when i put a new clutch in. my stock ones were so weak i could compress them more than 1/2 way with my fingers and the news ones i could barely compress. i felt the difference in torque transfer and the stiffness in my clutch lever. my finger was hella tired by the end of the day LOL.
  10. Just do some motor mods. high compression piston, better valve springs, some cams and port and polish the head. And get the boyesen quickshot for sure.
  11. i tapped mine to 5/16 instead coarse. alot easier to tighten. for awhile i was putting silicone to hold mine in which was a big no which i was doing it but i had no choice but i would check it after steppin off the bike every moto. or use a timesert www.timesert.com they work great used it once on a frame bolt i stripped out.
  12. But to answer ur question i have never seen anyone put a electic start. the right side case and cover would have to be modded like crazy to get it fit with the exhaust and carb in the way. the heat from the exhaust would probably kill the starter solenoid. or some how cut into the seam of the cases and use the clutch basket gear as the starter gear
  13. check ur valve clearance sounds like they are tight. when mine were tight the bike wouldnt start at all unless it had a bump start.
  14. thanx for the input guys. i checked the piston and its good. i bought the same plug CR8EIX iridium verison and put 2 banjo copper washers that fit perfectly. bike fired up 1st kick and running good. big weight is off my shoulders since i dropped 1200 in the top end doing this rebuild.
  15. I just got done rebuilding my top end. i put new je high compression pistion, kibblewhite valve kit, hot cams. well when i went to fire it up it ran for a while then quit. i thought for awhile pulled the plug and the raised dome on the piston hit the plug and closed it. should i pull the head off to check the piston for a crack. i look down the sparkplug hole and saw a imprint on the piston. how hard will it be to find a plug that will be a few milimeters shorter and should i replaced the head gasket when i pull off the head to check it even though the engine only ran a few seconds. im riding a kx250f 04'. any input would help on the plug and checking the piston. i also though about putting a new plug same one with another plug washer to clear the piston.