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About wahweap

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  1. KELSTR, thanks for your post, and after reading it I had a flashback to 1982 where I hung out after work at my freinds Harley, Suzuki, KTM dealership in Bend, Oregon. One day I overheard the H-D rep telling the mechanic that on the new Harley evolution engines that have Nikasil bores like the CRF that the pistons and rings MUST be assembled dry or they would smoke. Totalseal ring Corp, who manufctures the gapless ring sets also specify that their products be asembled dry. I don't think people realize that as soon as an engine lites off that there is an oil mist coating everything inside. Thanks again for your post that has had so much common sense about this subject that has about 99% of the owners baffled !
  2. Everyone that scratches their heads on the oil loss issue of this engine must realize that it is a supercross flying machine that has an engineered intention of running WFO for no more than one hour before it is under a tent or up in a trailer getting a full service. If you want to see how fast it can burn oil, try it at high rpm in a sand wash, and get someone to take a picture of how big your eyes get as you check the dipstick after a hard one hour run ! I called Honda in late November after my first smell of oil from the pipe and they fell back on the 15 hour top end life after I told them I hd around 20 hours on it. I have not read one story on oil loss yet where the owner is selling his CRF because of this MINOR maintanence issue. This is a very high maintanence machine that requires adding oil after one hour. I went on a ride the other day from St. George, Utah to Toroweep, Grand canyon (72 miles) at full tilt with 14-45 gearing (85 mph) and it ate 1/3 to 1/2 of the oil. I new it would be low, and I carry in my backpack a qt of Mobil MX4T synthetic, and as I add the oil all I am thinking about is how bad the thing beat everyone thru the turns over Mt.Trumbull and that I need a stabilizer for going over 80. Get over it, its ring design lets oil by, so what ? It is in a class of its own.
  3. There is NO such thing as a break-in period for an engine with a Nikasil bore. A break-in period for an engine with an iron liner and an iron ring is important, but that is reserved for your 350 Chevy ! The Honda also has a roller crank and these engines are designed to be raced right out of the box. It is possible that some of the engines could have bores that are within .0005" of being round and that might be an answer for the few that do not use oil. The inherent design of a low tension ring package on Nikasil explains high rpm oil loss. This is a supercross machine and it was not designed with Baja wins as part of the type of use it would get. Yeah, I am troubled too, I put my 250F into a 6 ft wide by 4 ft deep wash at speed a week ago and I am troubled by the fact that I am not able to add oil because my knees are still to sore to ride yet ! Anyone that complains about this machine AT ALL just does not get what this most awesome machine is all about. Keep your oil topped off and see how good you can hang on.
  4. The Mototune info applies to engines with iron liners and not Nikasil bores and there is a big difference. Honda is vague about it because it is a RACE engine and they fall back on their manual that states the 15 hr. piston life. Wiseco will have a higher compression piston that will not only give us more power but will have a different ring package for better oil control. To me the biggest problem with oil getting into the combustion chamber is that it lowers the octane of whatever fuel you might be using and that is why 100 avgas will give you longer piston life than averaged 92 octane pump gas. My engine only uses oil when I am wringing it out against the rev limiter, otherwise it never uses any. I only use Mobil MX4T 10-40 Synthetic.
  5. This whole break-in discussion that goes on and on could finally be over if some engineer from Wiseco or Keith Black or whatever piston manufacturer would please come forth and explain to all of us what break-in procedure should be used for every different bore surface and ring type that are used in today's modern 2HP per cubic inch liquid cooled engines ! Our CRF250R engines use a Nikasil plated bore with a low tension ring package that I would assume is either already "broke-in" or the ring seats in as soon as the throttle has been open hard for more than ten seconds. Other bore surface/ring sets like a steel liner with an iron ring, break-in immediatley, where a moly ring set uses a much differrent final hone finish on the bore and requires a more controlled break-in procedure. I have built Mercury V-6 outboards that use Nikasil and chrome plated bores and there is no break-in procedure givin at all and it is the same setup as the Honda uses and they tell you to use the most expensive synthetic oil that $$$ can buy ($49.00 per gal) If Honda says to use the synthetic for this specific engine then we must realize that they pay their engineers a lot of money to figure this stuff out and the guy that designed this marvel most likely told them what lubricant is required in its 28 oz. sump. I let my 15 year old son ride it for an hour last sat. he has an 03 CRF230 and after feeling the power and handling comparison, well the kid is now ruined until he owns one. The power of the dream.
  6. MAX49, Our wonderfull little engines use a LOW tension oil ring that will let oil by at high rpm, and until either Honda or Wiseco comes up with a tighter sealing ring design that has the same low friction as we have now, then you will need to add oil. The only people that this is really a problem with is the desert racers as they will need to carry oil or it will be part of the pit stop. When I first complained to Honda I was honest about the hrs used and I think I told them I had around 20 and he was quick to point out that the book says that the top end is to be renewed at 15 hrs ! The oil loss is just part of the deal if you ride hard. I am surprised that RHC has not addressed this topic . What do you think Ron ?
  7. Mobil now makes a motorcycle synthetic MA rated oil called Mobil 1 MX4T in 10-40, and 20-50. Checker/Shucks auto parts stores and Harley stores sell it or you can go online to mobil.com and they have a city locator. It is the most expensive oil you can by unless you get it from a jobber.
  8. Joe, the manual covers pressure washing and there are a bunch of places that you do not want high pressure wands to be pointed at. Any seals, airbox intakes, carb, head bearings, rear suspension links. I use starting fluid with a red spray stik in the nozzle to keep all of my seals clean. It is real fast and easy to wash all of the dust and dirt off and it dries without any oily film for more dirt to stick to.
  9. Yes, the switch keeps someone from having the throttle wide open, in first gear, a beer in the left hand and then pressing on the starter button to see what might happen. Try it sometime, very exciting, hang on tight ! No, really it is what is known as a nuetral safety switch and would be the first thing to check when the starter won't spin, ah, after you check the battery that is.
  10. The CRF does not have a decompression lever, the small lever is to lean the carb mixture for hot starting. The auto decompression feature has a spring loaded weight on the cam that partially opens the exhaust valves during kicking and becomes inop as soon as it fires.
  11. Drain the engine every three tanks and the trans every five to six and you won't beleive how dirty it is even with that little of run time.
  12. Metalgear, you need to drain the oil that it came with before you even ride it and fill it with your favorite non syn oil. Just get used to the fact that the oil will need to be changed every third tank of fuel, and the trans every six tanks, period. If you go beyond this and notice in shock how dirty the oil is, well, you have been warned ! The first oil change needs to be done after only about 10-15 minutes to get out the initial bearing flash and other suspended metal particles that the oil will hold. Buy a few cases of MA rated motorcycle oil and DID Xring chains before you spend all of your $$$$ on other goodies. If you learn how to play the CRF maintanence game the machine will go and go and go. Your family will miss you !
  13. What makes a seal leak is when dirt gets between the seal lip and the shaft that it either goes up and down on, or a rotating shaft, and the dirt makes small gouges in the seal lip allowing oil to get by. When you land from jumping it causes more presssure on the inside lip, and the lip actually gets pushed harder against the stanchion. Blowing a seal is when it comes completley out of its bore. Before each ride I wash the seals and the entire stanchions off with starting fluid. This gets all the dirt out of the seals without forcing it in them like you can do with a pressure washer.
  14. As soon as I went out three turns on the mixture screw I have never used the choke since, and like someone said on an earlier post that you must PUSH the kick lever through and not kick on it like you would a two stroke. I still have not mastered the after stall starting drill yet ? Anyone got that down yet ?
  15. DOJO, you need to take the spark plug out and have a look at it as it will probably tell you the whole story. It is possible that it could be slightly oil fouled, or even have have a coating from flooding. once it lites off does it have black smoke ? if not, then try backing out the mixture screw a full turn, I have mine out three turns as I still have the stock pilot jet. Hope this helps.