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tombba

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About tombba

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  1. 2016 300xc here with e-start issues after replacing Bendix,bushings,starter,battery.Bike will kick over and start fine but still won"t start with the e-start after all the parts i replaced.will turn over though. Just so I understand,I can e-start it simply by pressing the kill button simultaneously(or a split second later)when pressing the starter button? OR... I can do a ground wiring mod to fix it for good and not have to hit both buttons? if so...in a nutshell what exactly do I do to re-wire? Thanks guys ,was ready to give up on this
  2. I put a Slavens S3 high compression head on it and I"m speculating it"s tiring the starter too much.Started fine with it for a couple years though.
  3. I actually tried a new lithium battery and it didn't help
  4. its been going on for about a year.I"ve had the high compression head on since I got the bike 3 years ago and e-start worked fine with for a couple of years. the e-start has issues both hot and cold but I always kick start when cold
  5. I"m at my wits end on fixing my starter on my 2016 300xc.The e-start will turn over fine for 7-10 seconds or so before its starts to slow down and not fire.I"ve watched all the youtube videos on troubleshooting and so far have replaced the following. The starter with an Arrow 410w.The Bendix.All new bushings and greased all the internals per Slavens video.The battery is fully charged and at 14v or more.Power is getting to the starter fine.I haven"t changed out the crown wheel but the lash between the starter teeth and crown wheel are nice and tight. I took it to a mechanic and he checked everything and is speculating the Slavens high compression head I have could be creating to much compression for the starter even though is does turn over fine.One thing I"ve noticed is when I coast the bike downhill in neutral the e-start does work almost as if I"m helping the flywheel turn or something.Could too much compression be causing the issue?Its" almost as if the teeth on the Bendix isn't engaging the flywheel.BTW, I've even tried 2 brand new Bendix as I"ve heard you can get a bad one.Again the crown wheel is the only part of the equation I haven"t tried .any ideas?
  6. I'd better re-think $$$.Hmmm...Mousse upfront,tubliss rear
  7. Btw...I’m less concerned about pure performance and more about reliability. I think mousse front and rear the ticket for me.
  8. Great info guys. I’ve used tubliss front and rear on my300xc for gnar for 5 years and love it. One time at the Desert100 race in Wa state I finished the race and the front was flat probably for half the race!I felt a slight warble while riding but it didn’t slow me down. Red inner tube did its job. Had a14 bmw f800 with tubes for a few years. Did remote rides like the Wa backcountry discovery route. Ended up selling the bike because it was a pig on the trails. Did ok on fire roads and of course was a dream on the highway. I was scared shitless to ever have to change a tube in the back country even though I had all the proper tools and made numerous tube changes in my garage which were still a pain in the ass!cant imagine doing it on the trail if it’s hot or freezing cold and feel your hands!So...fe501 or500excf here we come! Probably will good mousse up front Tubliss rear or 100 percent mousse and just change em out more frequently. Realistically I’ll be more dirt than highway anyway. Btw did a 4 day Baja ride with Chilly few years back and I remember he used mousse setup. Did our fair share on pavement too.
  9. I’m getting a 500 ktm for dual sport and trail riding and will occasionally be on the highway maybe 50-50 of the time. Don’t want to carry tools for fixing a flat. Any you guys run mousse or Tubliss without any problems? READ MOTORCYCLE TIRE TUBES & MOUSSE REVIEWS
  10. Brand new 2013 crf450r with Core3.0,17 oz FW,tokyo mods remap.Doesn"t flame out but does stall intermittently,esp. when goin down a steep hill with no throttle. I think turning up the idle is the only solution and that's next on the list.freeplay gain is right on.love the bike and the core 3.0 but the stall is aggravating.
  11. Hi again guys. So I want to dial in my front forks with the best mod possible so all I have to do is check air pressure before every ride. I'm 5 11 174lbs mostly Woods riding with some desert and track thrown in and prob a conservative B fifty something rider. What's the best course of action?buying a"kit" from race tech and having someone local with knowledge do the install?Not that experienced of a mech and afraid I might open a can of worms if I try to mod myself. I heard 22m triple clamp offset works well too. This is turning out to be my mid life crisis project with no budget constraints! lol
  12. Good to know. Thinking the fmf. A little overwhelmed with all the performance reviews. FMF is the shortest and comes with the UFO plate.
  13. picked up the new 13 CRF450 yesterday and rode it a short distance.Compared to my14 KTM trail tricked EXC the CRF feels like a lightweight MTN bike on steroids! (IN a good way-perfect compliment to myEXC)It feels noticeably smaller,lighter,shorter wheelbase,closer to the ground for planting my feet etc.I"m 5 11 175 lbs.This is gonna be fun! So...thanks for all the input guys.My first to do"s I"ve decided on 17oz Stealthy FW,Renthal 520 Oring chain with 51t TWINRING (was undecided between the 50-51 but decided on the 51 since in reality I"ll be doing most woods riding in the Pac NW and start riding a little desert and heading to the MX track as well).Rekluse will be on the next list when the budget dictates.Remap and single exhaust(one that will give the header a little more ground clearance).
  14. picked up my new 13 CRF450R and I'm looking for the single exhaust upgrade. My priority is the the one which would give me the highest profile(most ground clearance) for the header.Stock is of course relatively low to ground and I'm worried it"s a little too exposed.Any ideas?
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