Steven_Pack

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About Steven_Pack

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  1. Just saw your post. I have an '02, raced exactly once. stored for one year due to a busted leg (not on this bike)Almost perfect condition. Have applied triple clamps, Pro-tapers, skid plate, extra desert tank, White brothers silencer, brand new Michelins, and awesome suspension by Moto-Pro (sprung for approx 170-180 pounds. email me at saint_steven@msn.com, or I'll watch the post. Maybe worth a drive? Asking price is $4200 with the extras.
  2. Thanks! Sudco had the part, shipped it. Honda wasn't too worried about ever getting one in stock.
  3. An easy way to set float level is this: with the carb off and held upside down, blow into the fuel line while lifting the floats up. as the floats are allowed to lower, they should effectively shut off your air supply when the plastic arm holding the floats is almost (about 5-10 degrees) from horizontal. In other words, almost level.
  4. Back in 02 when the bike wasn't even an hour old, it sucked sand because of the factory defective airbox. Honda wouldn't acknowledge a "bad airbox" at first, but the valves were eaten up. I replaced the valves with stainless, but couldn't ever get the bike to run on the bottom. Then I discovered that the dealer had installed the stainless valves, but didn't do anything with the valve seats, and the valves weren't even sealing. So, after fixing the head for sure, the bike still wouldn't run. After many hours of frustration and experimentation, I found that leaning the main to a 172, running a 35 pilot and the stock needle all the way lean (at 40 degrees F), the bike ran well. Soon as it started warming up, the bike ran blubbery on the bottom again. I am only assuming, based on some past experience, that the needle and the nozzle are likewise worn from the sand and dust in the intake. It really is all I have left to go on. I did lean out the float bowl as well this time, and haven't fired the bike up yet.
  5. the honda part no. is: 16165-MEB-671. The honda sucked sand the first ride when it was new, and after replacing the defective airbox and the valves, still couldn't get the bike to run with stock jetting like everyone else was running. I stumbled onto a good running motor when I leaned out the main to a 172, pilot at 35, and the stock needle all the way lean. But that was at 40 degrees. As soon as it started warming up, bike was running blubbery again on the bottom. We're at approx 4500 feet and dry. I am wondering if a JD kit, using a leaner needle than stock might compensate for the possibly worn out needle nozzle. Any thoughts?
  6. Dealers are all out of stock, and the part's on backorder. Does anyone know where to find a needle nozzle for the FCR for a '02 CRF450?
  7. The needle nozzle (Needle Jet, Needle Holder) for my honda's FCR carb has been on back order forever. I've tried Service Honda, Midwest Action, and a few others. I've tried the parts sources listed on the Web for Keihin Carbs too. Does anyone know where to locate a stock needle nozzle? Seems like people are going through them like candy!
  8. I am considering switching from my 03 300 to a stroker. Appreciate any comments regarding which bike you all like best. I live in the west, ride desert hare n hound, some WORCS races, am 44 , have sons on YZ 250 and YZ250F. Fairly aggressive, do all own maint and repair, but don't want high strung problem, if you know what I mean. Thanks
  9. The little 1/2 circle clips can be installed incorrectly, binding the cam. If you've over-torqued to any great degree, the cam caps could be distorted enough to sieze. Be extra careful.
  10. There seems to be lots of intake camshafts siezing in the head these days. Once cooled down, there's a good possibility the bike will turn over again and even run. Ours ran for several practices and even a WORCS race after the intake had siezed, after allowing for cool-down, etc. Just a thought. If it's still seized, you can run the motor backwards a bit by turning the crankshaft backwards, and then check the intake camshaft and cam bearing journals for aluminum galding.
  11. If the '04 exhaust cams will fit in your machine, I have an extra, new in the box. I'll part with it for around $50.00. if interested, let me know at saint_steven@msn.com
  12. Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea why the cam siezed? Did you adjust valves? Possibly over-torque? I just finished installing new intake cam on new head, and I can't help but wonder if all of my new parts and all of my work are just going to "sieze" again! Still, in all fairness, I do know many, many people with the YZ/WR 250s that haven't had a minute's problem.
  13. Yeah, unfortunately we did adjust the valves, and there is some argument as to whether the cam caps were over-torqued a bit or if the cam was installed with the circlip slightly out of place. We'll really never know. The guy who runs engine dynamics in california says he sees this quite often on the little bikes, but one thing seems to be in common, and that is people servicing their own bikes. I guess even if you think you know what you're doing, it helps to MAKE SURE. These bikes aren't like the 396 chevys we did motor work on as kids!!
  14. tried to email you. Don't know if it went through. anyway, I'll sell cam in unopened package for $50.00 if that works out for you. let me know here or at saint_steven@msn.com
  15. Our 04 siezed the intake cam in the head, resulting in damage to the intake cam and the head. Can be fixed, but actually we got lucky that more wasn't damaged. Reason, according to Engine Dynamics Company (the company that repairs the cams and heads)is extremely tight tolerances from the factory. Could be other issues, but bottom line is this: be extremely careful when performing valve adjustments and putting everything back together. there are tips and techniques that MUST be followed.