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About TTR125Ldad

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  1. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    I received the new OEM carburetor today; installed it; opened up the petcock; pulled the choke; the bike started on the second kick. I immediately pushed in the choke, and the bike ran up the driveway like it had been running for 10 minutes. It did not sputter, cough, etc. It required no warm up time at all. Three hours later after sitting in my cold garage, it started on the first kick. I am a happy camper, except I am bothered that I still don't know what is wrong with the old carburetor. It has new jets, a new needle valve, the floats look fine...I guess this will forever be a mystery. I hate the feeling of defeat. Thanks for all of the opions and attempted help along the way. I welcome any further speculation that might explain the mystery of the uncooperative carburetor. I think I will sell it on Ebay. A better mechanic than I might be able to do something with it.
  2. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    A good thought, but as far as I can tell the float is working. I have had it out of the bowl several times, and I have adjusted the float level twice. If the float was taking on any gas, I think I would have noticed. I have never noticed it being anything but clean and dry. But if my new carb assembly works, I am determined to figure out what specifically has been wrong with the old carb. I may try your trick at that point. Thanks. If the new carb doesn't work, I am going to burn the evil bike so it cannot hurt anyone else.
  3. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    Fresh gas? Actually a good question to ask. But, yes, when I rebuilt the petcock, I drained the gas tank and refilled with fresh gas (this week). Spark plug: I do get a good spark; I cannot say that it is consistent, but it does pass my tests. Carb cleaned: I have had this carb disassembled at least a half a dozen times, had it bathed twice, replaced pilot and main jets twice with new ones. What is the CDI? I cannot help but believe that the carb (or some component part of the fuel / air systems) is the problem. I have not been able to start the bike in my last few attempts, but when I lay the bike over on its carb side it at least tries to start on the first few kicks following the lay over. I have even left the bike on its side for 6 or 8 minutes at a time. Then the first few kicks it tries to turn over, and then leans out again. Starting fluid spayed into the air filter helps, but that is in no way a permanent solution. Thanks again for the posts. I will make sure and repost when I get the new carb assembly installed. I hope the old carb is the problem. I feel so defeated that I have not been able to isolate the problem.
  4. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    If my new $200 carb doesn't work, I will truck this worthless piece of junk to Florida and give you a crack at it!
  5. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    Thanks to all who offered an opinion. I just spent another hour with the bike. I removed the choke cable. Looks clean as a new one. I went ahead and lubricated it at both ends. The O ring looks good. Reinstalled the cable and have about the same one inch of travel that I have always had. I had a dealer check the valve adjustment last year. He said it was OK for what that's worth. An air leak between the carb and head is possible, but the boot looks fine. I can't get the bike running now (I gave up at about 80 kicks with no response other than my heart giving out) or I would use the WD40 trick to check it. Inside the boot however there is a trace of gasoline, so if the boot is leaking air, it could not be significant. The new spark plug still looks good, a little moist, and a little black, but fine. I cleaned it before reinstalling it. I suppose that I could pay a dealer for a compression test, but I really don't want to deal with a dealer again, especially as I said earlier, I know more than those guys even though I am an idiot. Plus the bike runs so well on the occasion that I do get it started, I cannot imagine that the engine is the problem. I am running a 17.5 pilot currently, tried the 20 pilot which did not help in a previous year. The main jet is one size larger than stock, I don't remember the number. Well I must now go to work and pay for the new carb assembly that I am about to purchase. I hope that solves the problem or I may just roll this bike up on the highway and abandon it. Someone would think they had something until they tried to use it. I am so disappointed with Yamaha. I may just have a lemon, but so many on this board have starting problems, and Yamaha keeps rolling the same bike out year after year.
  6. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    The petcock is now working fine.
  7. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    It has a new plug in it now. I have probably replaced 6 or 8 (perfectly good)plugs over the last couple of years. I have gone through all of the logical steps of a guy who is not a mechanic. I am going nuts. I wish there was a good Yamaha mechanic around Chattanooga. The dealers that I have been to don't know as much about this fuel system as I do. That is sad because I am an idiot.
  8. TTR125Ldad

    For the last time - starting problems with TTR125L

    Ok, in addition to upgrading the pilot and main jets, replacing the needle valve, adjusting the bowl floats...I replaced the petcock seals which were leaking. It still takes approximately 200 kicks to start this piece of junk. 200 kicks and I have to bounce the bike around (to slosh the gas about) before the thing will start. I just can't get this thing rich enough to cooperate. Only an exercise nut would want this bike as it will give a normal guy a heart attack to get it started. Any help is appreciated...I am close to buying a completely new carburetor assembly, but before spending $200 I wish one of you guys would save the day with a simple solution. I would never again buy a yamaha bike. Hondas I have owned in the past...an sl70 that I drove off of cliffs, an xr100 and xr250 were all first kick starting bikes. I am shocked that Yamaha still puts the crappy 20mm Mikuni on their 2006 bikes. All this griping coming from a Yamaha boat fan. I have no problems with my Yamaha boats!
  9. 2002 TTR125L with about 20 hours of use. The only way that I can get it running for my son is to remove the carburetor, remove the float bowl, and reassemble. It has always been this way. I have had it back to the dealer, no help. I have read every thread on this site. Changed pilot and main jet, opened air box; no help. I cannot remember which jet sizes I put in. It has been a couple of years and I had bought two size pilots and two size mains, so I cannot recall which sizes are in now. Neither helped. I am in Chattanooga, so I do not have altitude issues, and we do not get temperature extremes. The only other things I can share are that the petcock doesn't shut off the gas when switched to off. I have to plug the petcock hose when I remove the carburetor. Also, I have always felt that the compression on the kick was weak (my hondas kick back a bit). But once I get the bike started, it performs very well. I want to do something quick as I aim to sell the bike before Christmas. It hasn't been used enough to be beat up, it looks almost like a new one. But it is hard get much out of it if it won't start. Other than jetting, air box mod, leaning the bike on its side, turning it upside down, etc. any advice would be appreciated.
  10. TTR125Ldad

    BBR Discount Parts

    I don't know what specific BBR parts you want or for what bike, but I recently purchased an engine cradle and chain guide for my son's 125L. I bought from www.slmracing.com. I stumbled accross this company while searching on Ebay. The parts I bought were listed on the slm site at 125.99 and 62.99, respectively. That was cheaper than I had found anywhere, but I called the number listed on the website, talked to Andrew, offered 175.00 for both parts DELIVERED, and he accepted. I paid using PayPal, which I prefer to giving a vender a credit card number. I received both brand new parts in about a week. There may be a better price somewhere else, but I have seen used BBR parts sell for as much, so I am satisfied. Look at their website. Click catalog, then bit bike parts. If they have anything that interests you, call Andrew. Hope you find what you need!
  11. TTR125Ldad

    starting problems with 2002 ttr125l

    Thanks for the offer to discuss. Let me keep adjusting float height now that I know how. My first attempt did not help, so I will do more bending. I may ask for your number in a few days if I am not able do any good.
  12. TTR125Ldad

    starting problems with 2002 ttr125l

    Tutta-velocita, thanks for the reply. Actually, I did not use the clear tube trick to check the float level. Honestly, I did not see how the experiment would help me when I have not found any way to adjust the float. Unless 'float adjustment' means bending the little metal tab attached to the plastic float? The little metal tab closes the valve in the needle valve set when gas in the carburetor bowl hits an appropriate level. Bending the metal tab is the only way that I can see to adjust the float. And if bending this fragile little tab is the only way to adjust the float, Mikuni's engineers should be ashamed. Any way, I ordered a new needle valve set and o-ring today from worldofpowersports.com. $35 with shipping for $2 worth of parts. My search engine found no other suppliers with OEM Mikuni carburetor parts. So that is where I am. Thinking seriously about going back to Honda and never leaving again. The only good thing about Yamaha in my two months of ownership, is that I am learning some things about dirtbike mechanics. I have'nt needed any mechanical ability as a Honda owner for 29 years.
  13. TTR125Ldad

    BBR cradle

    flyred, I just installed a bbr cradle on my sons ttr125l several hours ago. So while it's fresh on my mind, I thought I would respond. The instructions from robbc1 are right on, but perhaps over-simplified based on my experience. You can hold the cradle up to the bike's frame and see which stock bolts you need to remove - two up front that go through the frame and one in the rear. And yes, I found that starting with the long bolt in the rear made the most sense. The problem that I ran into was that when I started to swing up the cradle to the front of the bike's frame, the cradle hit the exhaust pipe. I had to remove the pipe to swing the cradle up to align with the front frame bolt holes. Then use the (slightly longer than stock) BBR supplied bolts to secure the front of the cradle to the frame. Time to put the pipe back on and the project is over. I would like to think that others had to remove the stock pipe to complete this project (and that I am not stupid). For what it's worth, I am keeping my flimsy rubber stock engine guard and the stock frame bolts. I am putting this bike back together stock when it comes time to sell. Seems that tricked out bikes don't bring much if any more than stock bikes. And used BBR parts on ebay bring about as much as new ones. I saw a used BBR cradle for a ttr125 go for $120. New ones go for $125 to $140. A used cradle on a used bike does not add $120 to its market value. Something to think about. Good luck with the project.
  14. TTR125Ldad

    bbr frame cradle install

    Wish I could help with the torque specs, but I cannot. I expect to receive my son's new bbr frame cradle any day now, so I will follow this thread in hopes that someone will post an answer. Since you already have your cradle partially installed, how difficult is the removal of the stock front frame bolts? I put a socket wrench on one of the bolts this evening and it did not move, so I assume that I will need an air wrench.
  15. TTR125Ldad

    price check

    Armour All will not hurt the engine. You will notice it burn off the engine and muffler the next day when you start up the bike. Good luck.