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grayracer513 last won the day on December 2 2008

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About grayracer513

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  1. Seeing this suggested something to me. It sounds like you may be experiencing the numbness either because of nerve compression as Bryan says, or from a reduction in circulation as a result of a continuous too-hard grip on the throttle, much the same kind of thing that brings about arm pump. I'm subject to right hand numbness on long road rides. Whereas I can drop my left hand pretty much at will, the right has a full time job, and will tingle after a time. What I do is to relax half the hand at a time, gripping the throttle with the index finger and thumb for a while, then switching to gripping with the other 3 fingers and relaxing the first set. That may not be practicable off Road, but you might find that anything that helps you loosen up your right hand for as long as possible may help, be it suspension tweaks, riding style adjustments, strength training, or just practice and confidence.
  2. Simple. Through practice and experience, you train your right wrist not to be influenced by the tugging of the bars, and to manage the throttle independently of steering control. No magic to it.
  3. If the piston is stuck, how would an impact wrench spin the crank? Take the clutch off. Remove the nut. Done. If you can get the cylinder off, do that and hold the rod with a glove. Jamming the gears with anything metallic is a bad idea that can cause chipped teeth.
  4. Most often this happens because of a faulty timing chain. Sometimes the tensioner, but usually the chain. If you find several stiff links in it, that's probably it. Change them both on the way back together. Don't even consider reusing the center valve. You have a couple of options. One is to grind on the stem tip until it will pass through the guide (then hope that you can get the head cleaned out) or see if you can open the valve far enough to cut the valve head off and back it out the top. In all likelihood, you will need all three intake guides replaced anyway. The piston that did this should also be replaced, and it would be a smart move to pull the crank and have its alignment checked.
  5. To measure wear on the chain, use a standard 6" vernier caliper. Wedge a wood dowel or tool handle under the chain at the rear sprocket and draw it tight so there's no slack. Measure multiple sections of chain between 11 rollers as shown by "a" in the picture. A new chain will measure 5.85". When it gets to 6.0", it's 2% longer than new due to wear at the pins and the bushings. You should definitely replace it at that point (I use 1.5% as my personal limit). A worn chain is what wears out sprockets, not the other way around.
  6. The first couple of sentences basically just restate what I said. Pre-ignition is caused by any condition that ignites the fuel prior to the intended ignition point. However, while you may not use the word "detonation", that is precisely what "knock" is. "Knock" is the lay term for the audible sound fuel makes as it detonates, rather than burns. Pre-ignition causes it for the same reason that too much spark advance does. The earlier in the burn the detonation happens, the worse it is because more fuel is involved. Your "mega-knock" condition is simply that; detonation occurring very early on in the burn so that it involves a larger portion of the fuel charge. Detonation events have been known to produce dramatic, even spectacular failures, bending connecting rods, breaking pistons and cranks, and blowing whole cylinders off engines. It is often worse on supercharged engines since the whole idea of supercharging by any means is to force the engine to process a larger quantity of fuel.
  7. The Cause of "Arm Pump"
  8. Actually, you can put the filter in backward IF the bike has an aftermarket oil filter cover with a letter "R" on it. The OEM cover has a tab built on that extend through the output hole in the end of the filter. The Ready Racing filter cover does not, so the filter can be reversed. The hole in the end of the filter goes outward toward the cover. Having said all that, it is extremely doubtful that you rode the bike 5 hours without oil circulation. More than extremely. It's a dry sump system, and oil feeds from the tank, into the engine, drains to the sump, and gets sent back by way of the external oil line that runs up the left side of the frame. If you run the bike with the oil cap off, you'll see oil being returned just under the filler cap on that model. A steady stream after a cold start, then once the return pump catches up and clears the sump, it will become irregular and in spurts; the return pump outruns the feed by design. The oil in the tank looks cleaner because you're looking at the top of it instead of the dregs.
  9. Yup. Worn gear dogs on the 5th and 3rd pinions (gears on the main shaft) and the center shift fork. Under power, the gears "climb over" each other, which bends and wears the fork.
  10. You'll need a flywheel puller (don't be tempted to try to use anything but the right one for the engine; they're $20 or less) and a torque wrench capable of accurately applying 6.5 (75 inch pounds) and working around the frame top tube. And a service manual With reasonable mechanical skills, it should take about two hours, and less than $100 in total parts. First, you want to check to see if the timing's off, of course, but it's likely that it needs a timing chain if you don't know when it was replaced last.
  11. If you're not above changing the fork out at the steering head, clamps and all, the head bearings have been the same since '97. Just about anything from 2000 onward can be put onto the frame that way. The newer steering head is a little shorter, but only 5mm or so, and an extra washer will solve that problem. Good a way as any to make sure you keep up on your bearing maintenance.
  12. First, sooty black spark plugs are as likely to be caused by weak ignition as by rich jetting. Second, your mechanic is wrong. They can and will run while a tooth out of time. One of the common causes of jumping time is a timing chain that has developed stiff and binding links from wear/poor lubrication (old dirty oil). That, when combined with an engine that kicks back as it shuts off, as they are apt to do when turned upside down, can defeat the chain tensioner and allow the cam to skip over one or two. Happens all the time.
  13. One reason the gap increases is a split or mushroomed valve stem at the top.
  14. ey Grayracer, You have been a help to me before, thought I'd ask you about something. I have a 2011 YZ450F and I need to reset the TPS, do you know what voltage it is supposed to read at idle?

  15. The two engagement attributes that can be adjusted on any Rekluse are the engagement RPM, or point, and the engagement rate. The engagement point is adjusted by changing the spring(s) that release the clutch at low speed, and the engagement rate is changed by changing the weight of the wedges (EXP clutches) or the balls (Z-Start Pro). The Z-Start Pro has 3 possible engagement point settings, low, mid, and high. This refers simply to the RPM at which the clutch begins to engage (or the speed at which it releases, if you look at it the other way around). This should be set so that the clutch starts to move the bike just above idle. On my YZ450, that was the "Mid" setting. With the Z-Start Pro, there are two engagement rate settings: "fast" and "slow". This adjustment is analogous to how quickly you release the lever on a manual clutch from the catch point to fully engaged. This is done by choosing either all 27 balls, or reducing the number to 24, with 3 empty pockets evenly spaced. I ended up going with the "slow" setting because the fast setting was letting the clutch go from released to fully engaged too quickly, and causing stall outs in situations like turning up a hill a gear too high. There is very little to none at all noticeable delay in the engagement of the clutch as the rpm changes. The clutch reacts to changes in engine speed virtually as fast as they happen, whether it speeds up or slows down.