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About markjenn

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  1. I have the Suzuki rack with the Dirtbagz standoffs. It all plays together nicely. I don't have any issue with camping off the bike with a full kit - tent, pad, camp chair, sleeping bag, cook kit, food, tools, etc. The DRZ is a surprisingly capable backwoods tourer. - Mark
  2. My DRZ sat for 3-4 weeks recently. It would start on no-throttle/choke but I couldn't keep it running off choke except by aggressive blipping of the throttle and it was backfiring. Pulled carb and idle/pilot jet was plugged. A shot of compressed air, reassembly and it runs fine. Some folks here talk about loosening the carb bands and rotating the carb to get to the float blow screws and jets, but on my Mukini the crankcase breather box doesn't allow enough rotation. So I have to take off the throttle cables, disconnect the TPS connector, and wrestle it out. Always fun. - Mark
  3. In spec means in spec. Leave 'em alone until they're out of spec. It's as simple as that. - Mark
  4. I'm a curmudgeon about these sorts of things and generally feel that most riders grossly exaggerate the positives of mods, but it does wake the bike up noticeably. There are no downsides other than the effort to do it, so cut away. - Mark
  5. After about six months of back-orders, TT finally shipped my SDG tall and it arrived yesterday. First impressions: Solid, nice quality, good fittings, rock hard, much flatter, makes the bike less playbike and more true dirtbike, definitely makes the bike taller. Haven't taken a long ride yet, but overall I like it. But you have to like very firm seats - this is not a good seat if you like them soft. I had a tall SDG on my KTM 300 and although being very firm, it definitely was more comfortable than the KTM seat, not that this is saying much. I had a devil of a time getting the front "hook" on the seat pan into the slot under the tank. I have the Clarke 3.9 tank and Zuki luggage rack which both seem to make it harder to get the hook low enough to slot in. The seat pan itself is also slightly narrower than stock right around the spot where the hook is which makes it harder to fit. Despite repeated attempts, I couldn't get it to fit and was about to conclude that the rumors about the SDG seat and Clarke tank incompatability were true. As a last ditch effort, I removed the tank and found the exact right spot to place the seat to get it engaged, then remounted the tank and found that if I bent the seat fairly aggressively, and placed it in just the right spot, I can get it to fit properly. Once in the slot, it fits perfectly and looks great. I dumped the front tab on the Clarke tank which is totally unncessary with this stiffer seat. - Mark
  6. I haven't done it yet, but I'm planning on relocating mine on the helmet holder tab as previously shown. It appears I'll need to grind off the bump at the bottom of the tab, but should bolt up cleanly otherwise. I have the Dirt-Bagz racks, and need the forward mounting hole for the racks so the plate solution presented earlier won't work for me. There may be a very sligh interference problem at absolutely full suspension compression, but I think it will survive Okay. - Mark
  7. There's ten or fifteen email vendors - this is one I've ordered from: Many advertise on Ebay. - Mark
  8. If you want something bigger, there are better racks in the aftermarket, but the stock rack is actually quite well made, fits perfectly, and includes a nice bracket/holder for tools and a document holder. And at $120 from Oneida, the savings are considerable too. I was very impressed with the Suzuki rack. - Mark
  9. From their POV, keeping a selection of shims in stock for all the bikes on their floor so they can sell to the three or four customers doing what you're doing doesn't make any economic sense. That would be $10K in inventory sitting on their shelves to make $10 year profit. Almost no dealers stock shims in their parts department - almost all who provide shims for customers w/o ordering do so by exchanging with the mechanics' selection. - Mark
  10. On my bike that drain from the clock in the speeod unit was only 0.4 mA, but the regulator/rectifier was another 1.4, so disconnecting the instrument cluster may not gain you that much. Spec is supposed to be 1.0 mA total, but at least one other has confirmed drains similar on their bike, so many probably are over spec. That's probably the reason why some are Okay and others are having battery problems. Do the math and it looks like a 9AH battery should be good for at least a month or two before a problem develops (9AH = 4500 hours at 2 mA current) but the battery will have problems cranking the engine long before it gets that low and I think the constant drain reduces the batteries capacity from the moment you start using it and letting the bike sit much. As I said earlier, just a marginal system, at least for some of us. - Mark
  11. Many sites will host pictures but won't allow anyone to see them unless they're registered with the site. So you see them and anyone else who is registered with that site sees them, but not the teaming masses. You may need a host without such a restriction. - Mark
  12. We've discussed this in other threads. The DRZ has a fairly high self-discharge rate through the clock and rectifier and any sitting for more than a few days takes its toll on the battery. I'm sure it varies from bike to bike, but if I don't ride mine every few days to a week and/or take longer riders to get it fully charged again (or keep it on a charger), I eventually have battery problems in a few months. If I had a dime for every battery that was tested and said to be Okay by dealers, I'd be a millionaire. Once a battery gets weak, just replace - they never come back and I don't think the testers the dealers use can really tell if they're good or bad. If your DRZ is used sporadically, I think you either keep it on a charger or replace a lot of batteries. It's a very marginal system. - Mark
  13. I'll add my somewhat mixed experiences with a Clarke for my 06 DRZ400S. I ordered a new blue DRZ tank from a reputable Ebay vendor and it arrived promptly. I was busy and it took three weeks to get it mounted and I was leaving on a 4-day dual-sport tour the next day. Sure enough, I had a slow leak around the right "safety wire" insert. I needed the extra range, so I just lived with it, but finally had to jury-rig some fiber washers and o-rings to manage the leak and complete the tour, albeit making sure nobody was smoking around the bike. (I do have the usual 2nd detent choke knob interference issue but didn't have to rig new fuel or vacuum lines.) When I got home I called Clarke and was told that since I didn't buy the tank from them directly, I would have to return it through the vendor I bought it from. The person I talked to on the phone was very cut/dried about this. So I got ahold of the vendor who responded immediately. He offered to intervene on my behalf to see if I could send it directly to Clarke and get a new one back directly from Clarke, reducing the turnaround. I sent him a picture of the leak which he forwarded to Clarke. I did end up doing the exchange directly with Clarke for about one-week turnaround which was excellent. (I don't understand why Clarke wouldn't just do this from the get-go.) I've mounted the new tank and so far, it is fuel tight. The return was a big hassle and cost me about $8 in postage. Although I had drained the tank thoroughly and made sure it was bone dry, it still had a slight residual gas smell that I couldn't get rid of. While weighing the package, the lady at the post office got a faint wiff of gas smell and it was all over - she wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole. So I had to seal it up in a plastic bag, repack it with fresh packing materials, and spend another 30 minutes in line at the post office. The leak might have been a defect in the plastic around the insert, but I also noted that when you bolt up the safety wire, it doesn't lay very flat against the insert which adds bending stress to the insert and surrounding plastic. Probably the easiest thing to do is to skip the safety wire, but I'm not overly impressed with Clarke's plastic saddle mounts that engage the frame rubbers; they seem a bit flexy and not deep enough. I could easily see a good wreck causing the tank to unseat at the front and without the safety wire, four gallons of fuel might have enough lever arm to crack/split the tank at the aft mounting points. So on the new tank, I retained the safety wire, but was careful to bend it so the safety wire seats flat on the inserts. I also went easy on the torque. I like the tank, but this was a big hassle. Clarke came through promptly with a good replacement, but I think they should accept back warranty claims directly rather than making us jump through hoops. And they didn't reimburse me for the return postage. (It was only $8 so I didn't ask them to, but I've had vendors volunteer or throw in a freebie to cover the hassle.) If you're buying one, you might want to order directly from Clarke in case you get a bum one like I did. - Mark
  14. Just my $0.02, but I think 99% of clip failures are due to improper installation (either orientation or failing to get the clip properly seated in in the pin grooves). Getting a clip in the grooves on an o-ring chain is not easy and a lot of folks screw it up. I wouldn't worry for a minute about using a properly installed clip on a DRZ (or any bike for that matter). - Mark
  15. A lot of folks simply tie-wrap the spark box forward of the standoffs, but I'm going to leave it where it is - it is a good 3/4" above the hole, so shouldn't have much effect on the airflow. - Mark