• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About GotRoosted

  • Rank
    TT Newbie
  1. Yes. You get three needles. One for richer, one for leaner and one that's just right. The word from Barnum's is that the middle needle (the "normal" one) should work for most if not all altitudes on the DRZ. It can be changed without having to remove the carb from the bike.
  2. bronco78: Those are both true statements. My stock carb was definitely improperly jetted for that altitude. I suspect that there may be some combination of jetting and other mods that would extend the altitude range that the bike will perform well within. However after seeing that many of the threads here have something to do with trying to find that combination, and knowing every attempt means taking the carb on/off (did it 4x) I decided to go a different route. I may yet find that I need to do something to the Edelbrock, but so far it's worked significantly better than stock over a decent altitude range with little to no adjustment. I also agree that the Edelbrock is very different than the stock carb. However I think kawidual was talking about swapping an FCR with this Edelbrock and doing all the testing. My old carb was the stock Mikuni. It would be interesting to me to see how much an improvement I made vs. stock even if the carbs are different. Yes, since it's a slide carb w/pump it will be much better. Seeing the numbers would be enlightening. I would also welcome an Edelbrock vs FCR comparison. I'm not partial to either, I just happen to have the Edelbrock and am quite happy with it. For others who may be sitting on the fence some dyno numbers would be a help. I think I still have that dyno coupon from my Dynojet kit. I'll look into it. Problem is, I don't have an FCR handy.....
  3. I finally got a chance to do some off-road riding over a large elevation change with my new Edelbrock. I started at an elevation of just over 4000 feet as indicated on my Garmin 12XL GPS, and rode down Grapevine Canyon to the desert floor in Borrego, which is just a couple hundred feet above sea level. This same ride gave my bike fits recently with the stock carb (stock jetting, Dynojet needle). At the top it would studder and hesitate during acceleration, and at WOT would bog so bad that it would almost stop running. Now the good news: The Edelbrock took it in stride. Excellent, smooth acceleration, great at WOT both at the top and the bottom of the hill. I LOVE the accelerator pump, and found myself using a new technique for turns. With the old carb (and it's slow acceleration) in preparing for a turn I'd go into it a little fast, then tap the rear brake to bring the tail around as I rolled on the throttle. Now with this instantaneous engine response I found I could just blip the throttle and the back tire would spin enough to slide the tail. I've got to get used to all this new-found power, though, because I can make that rear wheel spin at speeds I couldn't before. I ended up sliding out a couple of times because I wasn't ready for that instant response. But I went down smiling!! I got down to the desert floor and even though the bike was running just fine I changed my mixture just for fun. Here's how: Remove left side panel, with left hand reach up to top of carb, press down on little wheel, with right hand slowly give full throttle to bring the needle up to the adjuster and turn counter-clockwise 3 or 4 clicks. Took all of 30 seconds. Hahaha! I love it! I rode around for a few hours, taking Thimble Trail out to Short Wash, and played a little in the Badlands sand area then took the Montezuma Grade all the way back up to where I started. No further adjustments, it just plain worked. My bike ran great the whole ride for the first time in almost 400 miles of riding! This carb rocks! I will never again have to remove a carb to change jets, or worry about what altitude changes there may be on our next trip. I was a bit concerned initially about the 12-clicks thing caused by the burr in the needle guide groove, but in looking over the rest of the machining it looks very good and I'm happy to report that I am thoroughly pleased with this purchase. Ever ride on a friend's bike that's totally dialed in, and you wonder if you could ever get yours running so good? I feel like I have that bike.
  4. I'm not the Edelbrock expert either, by far. But I believe it is a quite unconventional carb in the sense that it doesn't have jets similar to other carbs. In fact, I think its design dispenses with the conventional 'pilot jet'. I have to confirm this to be sure, but I'm at work right now and can't take the time. Also, to be fair, it could have been that I simply flooded the engine while working on it. I remember twisting the grip quite a few times while adjusting the needle height wheel. It may well have started after x-amount of cranking whether or not I changed the needle position, so my comment about lean setup causing hard starting was just a guess on my part. What I CAN say now, however, is after all that I've had no less than 20 starts both warm and cold and it comes to life virtually instantly every time. So I believe the hard starting after installation was an anomoly.
  5. I got my Edelbrock carb and, like I said, good or bad I'd report back. It's a nice kit, very complete except for the two Suzuki parts I had to get, a clamp and an air boot, about $20.00 total. You get the whole throttle assembly, cables, hoses, etc. The instructions are good and highly detailed, easy to follow. You can tell the DRZ supplement is written by someone who went through this procedure himself. It took about 3 hrs to put it all together. Figuring out the routing of the hoses took me a while, but my mom raised slow kids, not stupid ones so I got it all together. Started up the bike and it ran just like up in Kennedy Meadows with my old improperly-jetted stock carb.....that is to say, like crap. From my experience it was rich. No problem, I say to myself, I'll just tweak the needle valve adjuster a few clicks more lean. However it would not go any more lean, and furthermore I could only get 12 clicks of adjustment out of it. The manual says you should get 32 clicks. Kind of made me say hmmmm..... A call to Barnum's Pro revealed that there may be a burr in the needle slide. I needed to take off the top of the carb to check this out. Luckily I could just loosen the manifold and air boot clamps and rotate it enough to take the top off. Didn't need to take the whole carb out again. I took off the assembly that moves the needle up and down in the jet. Simple design, only two parts. The one you turn is threaded and looked fine. The other rides up and down on the threads and has a press-fit split pin that protrudes into a slot to keep it from rotating. This is the part that the needle pushes against and makes it go up and down for richer/leaner. I suspected that the pin was catching in the groove so I filed a few thousandths off of it and reassembled. Now I get 14 clicks. Ahhhh, I'm on to something. File off a few more thousandths and I get 35 clicks. Cool, back in business. Edelbrock should have found this problem at the factory. Barnum's said to start at 28 clicks from fully rich. I set it for 28 clicks and tried to start the bike. Cranked and cranked and cranked and nothing happened. Not even a pop. I read somewhere that too lean can mean hard starts, so I go a few more clicks rich and crank some more. It started up. Rode it around a little and it seems to be running well. Way powerful acceleration, likely due to the accelerator pump. It felt like I was going to rip the knobs off my rear tire. The pump is a cool setup, by the way. It has a linear progression of twist speed to fuel injection. If you twist the throttle slowly it doesn't squirt anything, the faster you twist the more gas it injects. Slick. I rode around the streets here but didn't hit any major elevation changes. However I found that I can set the needle so lean that it won't start, and so rich it hardly accelerates. There's about a 10 click range where it will run well, so I centered it in that area. It has ball-bearing notches to keep its setting. It has very smooth and much more powerful acceleration than stock. This isn't all placebo effect, I assure you. The bike is MUCH more responsive. I've started it about 20 times both cold and warm and it always starts up immediately. In fact if you have a stock carb you're probably used to cranking a few times, no? With this you give a few twists to shoot some gas from the accelerator pump, push the button and it's running before you can get your finger off the start switch. I'm happy. After I get some more off-road experience with it I'll report back.
  6. I’m a friend of Scott’s (sdscotto), the guy who took the plunge with the Edelbrock. Scott got his DRZ a year before I did, but we both have 2003’s. He’s just ahead of the curve. However my DRZ is better…’s yellow. I’ve been looking at the Edelbrock too. Here’s my info: I made my first couple of rides with it totally stock. After reading the posts of how lean the DRZ comes stock, I was concerned about the engine overheating so I did the Dynojet kit modification, and I put on a 14 tooth front sprocket. No air box mod or anything else. Since then I've gone riding at sea level, at the 4000' level (Pinnacles) and 9000’ level (Kennedy Meadows). My bike ran good at sea level, it even had more power and quicker throttle response. However, at 4000’ it ran worse than it did when it was stock. So I started playing with jets. I made the first recommended jetting change and it ran pretty good at home and 4000’. Our next ride was to Kennedy Meadows where my bike ran like crap. I didn’t have the right jets for that altitude, and I hadn’t done the air box modification, so I suffered through that trip. My bike was almost unridable. I should have had a bigger selection of jets but where is that printed in the manual? I think it was way, way rich. Scott’s ran much better than mine, but you could tell it wasn’t totally dialed in even after we worked on jets for over an hour. When he told me about the Edelbrock I was intrigued. I spent about 4 hours researching the carb on the internet and on TT forums, looking for any good info. In the DRZ forum it gets bad-mouthed, in the Honda forum it gets good reviews, and in the other forums there's scant mention of it. I almost dropped the idea because of the bad-mouthing it got, however in looking closer at the posts I began to notice that the few who didn't like it were mostly expressing opinion. There was no substance to their claims. They either had no experience with it or only "heard it was no good". I put no weight to comments or opinions like that. I’m a Hardware Engineer by profession and I prefer to deal with facts. Having said that, I’m not a performance freak. Rather, I just want to ride it and have it work reliably. I’m tired of taking the stock carb on/off, changing jets, dealing with stripped out heads on the float bowl screws, etc. every time I ride. And if I don’t do that it doesn’t run well. I got interested in the Edelbrock because of its promise to allow "jetting" changes with the twist of a knob, and for its accelerator pump. I had nearly decided to buy one when Scott told me he was going to get one (figures). Last Saturday I went riding with him as he tested his Edelbrock’d DRZ on a 4000’ to sea level desert ride. He was happy, and after riding Scott's bike I was satisfied that his bike with the Edelbrock was a substantial improvement over mine. Substantial isn't the right was a HUGE improvement. I mean, DAMN that was fun! When I got back on mine it was like I was riding through molasses. Now the engineer in me comes out....To be fair, his gearing is different from mine, I have 14/44 and he has 14/47, so some of the improvement I noticed was due to the lower gearing giving the impression of better acceleration. However it had smooth power, and it comes on INSTANTLY, and it didn't seem to care a lick about the altitude. Back on my bike, I noticed a big difference going down the hill. Up top mine was very rich, stumbling and hesitating upon speeding up. It ran much better at the bottom. Scott's ran nearly the same at the top of the hill as at the bottom. I thought if my bike could operate that good I would be stoked, so I ordered an Edelbrock for myself. It should be here in the next day or two (hopefully tomorrow). Since some in this thread are interested in learning more, I will report back on my experience with it, good or bad, so we can add to the base of knowledge here.