jpf

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About jpf

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  1. You may be on to somethng. I have ridden nine enduros and five hare scrambles and my intakes tightened up at about 200 miles and have not required any further attention. Only two of the races were dusty though. I removed the screen and used high temp silicon to seal it. It looks like crap inside where it sqwished out (just like the Pro Circuit bikes I saw on a how to segment of Two Wheel Tuesday). I run the fire proof Twin Air and clean it after each ride, use Spectro filter oil and grease the contact point where the filter meets the air box with water proof grease. I have not had the carb top off but will remove it this weekend and seal it up just to be safe. Thanks for the info. So far, so good and my ICO has 846 miles on it and I only use it for enduros. A dealer friend said Kawasaki should buy my bike back for research purposes. Evidently, all of the bikes he has sold have had valve problems. I may just be lucky?????
  2. I have had my since November 2003. I have adjusted the valves once (after one race the intakes tightened up) and check them regularly. The bike has six hair scrambles and ten enduros on it now. I keep the filter clean and sealed. I run Honda GN4 oil, nothing fancy, and change it every 60 - 100 miles and change the oil filter every other oil change. I do not over rev the bike nor do I let it sit and idle. These bikes pump no water or oil when idling. I have seen steam come out of the overflow once while stuck on a hill waiting on the trail to clear but I have had to add no more than a cup of water after a race. I run Pro Honda premix. The only modifications I have done is the two piece water pump cover / oil filter deal and an eighteen inch rear wheel and home made spark arrestor (screen in stock muffler). I did not change jetting, and yes it pops sometimes on deceleration but that takes less energy than yelling at someone. Ha Ha.
  3. The bike was designed to run best at high rpms and the trade off to avoid cavatation of the oil and water was to slow down the flow. There is no oil pressure or water flow at idle. Keep blipping the throttle when you have to stop. This will assure you have sufficient oil pressure and coolant flow. I ride enduro and hare scrambles and have had to add maybe an ounce at the most after a race. I have had steam coming out of the overflow tube but no major coolant loss. I figure it is just a built in coach that is telling you to get your tale in gear and go get'um!!! I have the 1.6 cap and run Pro Honda coolant.
  4. I put an 18" rear wheel on and the Rekluse auto clutch. The bike shines in the woods because it turns so well, is very nimble and has super smoothe power delivery. The clutch is a must because the bike is easily stalled at slow speeds and can be a bear to crank when hot. Back way off of the dampening adjustments for roots and the suspension is fine stock.
  5. The shorter kicker is more to the LONGER legged riders benefit. You are the first short legged rider I have seen stating you do not like the longer stock lever. To install it, just take the stock lever apart ad replace the stock arm with the shorter 125 arm. A word of wisdom... learn to NOT PANICK when starting in a hurry and kick the motor over too harshly. The shorter lever spins the engine faster and a smooth kick is the key to firing the engine up. I changed mine and wouldn't go back to the cheater pipe length kicker for any reason I can think of. Unless.... you are a weenie and can't kick it over on the compression stroke when flooded with the 125 kicker. It will take some pressure to get it past that hard spot but if you can't kick through it just put the weight of your leg on it and it will ease through it in few seconds. This has worked when I have hit that spot after a hard crash and do not have the energy (qualify me as a weenie when tired) and found this trick to work.
  6. I agree with John. I backed off of all of the clickers and mine works great. I had the packing problem prior to loosening things up. A AA rider gave me the advice.
  7. Same as what is on a 125, the wider rim should work fine too. I run a 110 Trelleborg tire and am very happy with it. Yes, it is for more sidewall.
  8. It was 84 degrees in Louisiana last Sunday and we had several miles of first gear slipping the clutch and stopping to work your handlebars through narrow trail. My bike was still lipping full of coolant after the race. I run Honda coolant and the pro-circuit with a 1.6 cap. Most over heating problems come from over filling the crank case with oil. Remember, if you see oil in the glass after the bike has been sitting level for a day or so, it is probably too full.
  9. I put an Excel 18" for woods riding on the rear and all we did is get the Excel spoke kit. Be sure to check the tightness of the spokes after a few rides.
  10. I run Pro Honda coolant and stock cap. One 85 mile Enduro in SC, two hare scrambles in MS, I idle as long as I need to at any given time and have not lost one ounce of coolant. I do take extra care not to over fill with oil when changing and do not over rev the engine. I just put the 1.6 on it in anticipation of warmer weather but so far no problem.
  11. Jeff Reher that works for Knight Sports Center has a very clean 2002 VOR for sale. Give him a call at 662 748 2032.
  12. Oh well, to each his own. Not arguing with you. As I said before, if you need assistance or advice they can help. KLP races what they sell and know the good and bad and how to correct the bad on about any brand you ride.
  13. I don't know much about the Gas Gas and VOR deal other than they put Gas Gas on the map and the bikes have suffered performance wise since they lost them. All I know is they have a wealth of knowledge and can help you with technical information. I never implied that anyone purchase stock, just trying to help fellow riders that need assistance. They help me and have never failed to get what I need and more than once have modified my existing part and saved me money.
  14. The Arizona / California National Enduro swing is the reason you haven't heard anything. They will return next week sometime. I will tell them to check their mail.
  15. I am not sure what their prices are yet but I do know that they will be competetive and when you figure Ohlins suspension set up by KLP for the buyer prior to delivery, the Excel color rims, billet hubs, KLP hand gaurds for the woods riders who want them, and the TM works bike type power that will be included the Japanese bike just went up about $3,000 or more. I would also bet from my experience with KLP that parts will not be a problem. KLP also handles VOR and Kawasaki (they support me on a KXF in enduros and hare scrambles) and can help with parts and repairs. Tell 'em Joe Ferguson sent ya.