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About jeepkevin

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  1. jeepkevin

    KLX250S to 300 with AHL kit?

    I had a K35 and a K128 before. It will be interesting to see what happens to mpg. It's cold and rainy in Dallas right now and with holidays and colder weather coming, might be a bit before I can get a real feel for all the changes.
  2. jeepkevin

    KLX250S to 300 with AHL kit?

    I did that kit recently on my 14'. The gaskets supplied were replaced with the Cometic kit for the KLX300. The head gasket did not line up properly with all the coolant ports. The lower cam tension spring holder bolt (#92153) was tool long and put pressure on the plastic chain guide instead of allowing the spring to apply pressure. I just trimmed it down about 4.5mm. Everything else went smoothly. I used all factory torque specs. Current jetting is idle circuit drilled .018", idle jet K40, main K140, Dynajet 2152 needle at 2nd slot from top, Dynajet spring. I have a UNI filter, lid on air box without snorkel, full FMF exhaust. I'm in Dallas, Tx at appx. 750' elevation. When I originally bought the bike, I dropped the front sprocket one tooth for a little better power. Now I want to go back to stock gearing to take advantage of the higher cruise speed. Going 300cc was a nice seat of the pants difference.
  3. jeepkevin

    Collapsed Oil Filter

    I changed the oil last night to 10-40, installed new filter. No more clicking on startup. It was about 45 degrees this morning. I know that some of my other toys have their own personality. Maybe my XR was just telling me not yet on the thicker oil. Thanks for posting up the oil flow diagrams. I learned a little bit today about the bike.
  4. jeepkevin

    Collapsed Oil Filter

    Good point. My other bikes are similar, I double checked, that mark lines up the oil flow port in the case and the cover. I would think serious oil starvation could occur if you missed that. I wonder if I just got a bad filter?
  5. jeepkevin

    Collapsed Oil Filter

    Bought an 08' XR650L used with 600 miles. I rode it home, did an oil change with Honda GN4 10-40 and a factory filter. I rode the bike for another 600 miles, this took several months over the winter. I found the service manual online and read that the bike could also run 20-50 which is what all my other bikes run. I switched to Castrol, installed new factory filter, and started her up to warm up. It made that odd clicking sound from the oil pump area. Other posts suggest that it is the oil pressure bypass, many Hondas do this and that it goes away after 30 seconds or so, once the oil starts to get a little temp built up. I rode the bike around the neighborhood and came back to check the level. I added a little to get the right reading on the dipstick and started her back up. It continued clicking for the same 30 seconds or so, again I ride around the block. The next morning I decided to ride her to work, but upon startup the clicking never really went away. I shut her down after about 2 mins of running, hopped on another bike and came to work. When I got home, I decided to drain the fresh oil, and just go back to the 10-40 since my problems seemed to have been associated with the oil change. I decided to pull the filter and drain that area and was suprised to find the factory filter compressed about 25% and all the pleats wrinkled. I came over to my trash can with the filter and noticed that the oil would not run through the element. I took another new filter, poured some 10-40 in it and out it came. The older manual online says 20-50 for appx 32 degrees and up. It was 60 degrees during the problems I ran into. So tonight, back to Honda for some 10-40. Sorry for the long post, just sharing my info. Everyone else runs 20-50, thought I could too.