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About mtnmanseth

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  1. Check out "Idaho ATV/Motorbike Program" on Facebook for trail condition updates, including which trails have been cleared... Thank you for the trail work, WWGUY!
  2. Did you sell the 5.6? If not I'm interested. PM me please
  3. My '14 498RR with 5,500 miles and 182 hours has the same wobbly clutch basket - I'm going in this weekend to replace oil pump gears (with the steel ones) and am wondering if that wobble is "normal". Can anyone verify volitan's mechanics opinion here? Thanks
  4. Bull Creek near McCall, Idaho
  5. +1 to the above (great post brysonrs) My thermostat housing started leaking at about 45 hours in... just deleted thermo with Samco silicone hose kit. The stock rear tire is terrible. Try a Shinko 505 Cheater in 110/100 size. Best tire yet, IMO. Also, really, really highly recommend the NECJ needle. I tinkered quite a bit with stock jetting, which is good, but had a hunch I could find better. The NECJ on 3rd (middle) clip not only makes a tiny bit more low end torque, but my bike has not boiled in the gnarly Idaho steep slow stuff since, idle sounds healthier, and much less idle "knock" noise when hot. I'm done tinkering. And, yes, I did also try the JD kit, but was underwhelmed... my personal experience. NECJ 3rd (middle) clip at those temps and elevation should be great. For 11 bucks, try it. Enjoy the new ride!
  6. Or perhaps I'm getting to be a stronger rider and the snort it had/has 3 years ago scared me more back then! I cleaned the carb this summer and refreshed the plug with an NGK Iridium. It runs great, really - love the bike... almost as much as my new 300 Race! But, you're right, from what I'm hearing about the longevity of the OEM top end, it would be a lot of unnecessary wrenching to replace a healthy 4T top end. On the other hand, replacing the top end at 200 hours seems reasonable and responsible to me. Next, I'll look into the MotionPro tester and put more effort into getting the numbers I need to make an informed decision. I'll update this post when I get there... Thanks guys
  7. Many thanks for the replies everyone. I checked my valve clearances and am surprised to find them still in spec: Intake R 0.10 mm L 0.11 mm Exhaust R 0.18 mm L 0.15 mm The valves have never been adjusted on this bike, and after 174 hours for them to still be in spec seems like proof of a well-built engine. Unfortunately, I was unable to perform a leak-down test due to lack of proper adapter for the spark plug hole. I'm going to keep riding it as is and then do a whole top end this winter when there's snow on the ground here. I'll compare piston/gasket kit prices between dealer/OEM and the Pro-X kit, and probably go with whichever is less expensive.
  8. My 2014 498RR has ~4,800 miles and 174 hours on her. I use it for desert / dual-sport days. Still starts instantly and very reliable, but perceive it might be a little down on power compared to new. Manual says new piston every 90 hours, but I don't race it or flog her too hard. Anyone have experience with the longevity of this engine and when the top end should really be done? Also, only finding piston kits by Pro-X, which I was under the impression is an "economical" option - i.e. inferior to OEM. Vertex, Wossner, WiseCo don't list any options for this bike... anyone know any other top end refresh options? Or is Pro-X perfectly fine in this case?
  9. I'm up to 30 hours on my new bike. I'm getting right at 55 miles range (then switch to reserve) on a stock tank (2.5 gals) and not sure if that's normal. So ~24 mpg. Was hoping for a little more. Float height is untouched but seems right, as it's hard to get it to dribble out the overflow line by tipping the bike way over, though I'm not sure if that's a good way to test. I use this bike for technical slow (but sandy) singletrack in the high desert (2k-5k elevation) with sporadic WOT fast sections. Stock jetting. Zero spooge. Runs great. You guys getting the same fuel economy on yours? Thanks
  10. What Sierra_rider said. And I did seriously consider the new GasGas, but their new pricing seemed excessive (high) and a SW Beta dealer made me a deal I didn't refuse on a '17 300RR Race. I'm all about riding something different than the rest of the herd, and have followed GG's rise from the ashes very closely over the past year. But, ultimately, I'm VERY happy with my new Beta yet do wonder what else the GG could offer. For $1,500 less, however, the choice to go with a tried and true new Beta was relatively easy. Perhaps I'll scoop up a used '18 GG in a couple years...
  11. Interesting... my best riding buddy has a '17 300RR w oil injection and his bike spooges A LOT more than my '17 300 Race w/o oil injection. We thought it would be opposite. He's running Motul 710 in the oil tank, just like I am in my gas (50:1). Back at the truck his pipe has a black snot line nearly all the way down and mine has a thin ring of spooge just around the silencer opening. Stock jetting in both bikes. Obviously, same atmospheric conditions. I don't get it.
  12. +1 Motul 710 has MUCH LOWER flashpoint than the 800, which is designed for "racing" ie. on the pipe (hotter combustion) most of the time. 710 is ideal for trail and aggressive offroad riders, as most of the time we're just off idle or short spurts of WOT. Don't jet for spooge, but do expect less spooge with a lower flashpoint oil (like 710) if primarily trail riding.
  13. Big Wheel Channel on YouTube is classy, accurate, and relevant motorcycle reporting at its best.
  14. Good thread. I've tried to repair my kickstand on my older Beta a couple times now... thought it was the 'slot'/fork in the kickstand spreading, so put it in a vise and gently squeezed it back together, but that didnt' really help. Didn't really think about the actual through hole getting widened and sloppy. Giv'er a try and report back, please.
  15. Big Golden fatty fan here, but the 90/100 Shinko 546 (copycat tread pattern and nearly as fat) for literally half the price is really, really great as well. Giv'er a shot next time!