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Yamaguy55

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About Yamaguy55

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
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    Motorcycles, both street and dirt

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  1. I know this is an old thread. If anyone is still following this, what specifically was found? We're moving to the area soon and I have a very dirt capable, plated WR250R that I use here in the wilds of central PA. I'd like to continue to use it in the Ft Wayne/Decatur/Bluffton/etc area. I have a three rail trailer and can either tow it or ride it. Also looking for experienced riders that like to have challenging, but not murderous, rides. Hospitals not on must-visit list. I also have a FZ-09 for road riding (although, with a little engine protection it would probably work well as an off road bike as long as ground clearance wasn't an issue.) Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
  2. Yamaguy55

    Flatland Racing Skid Plate

    I've had a Flatland plate on my 2008 Yamaha WR250R since I bought it in early 2009. Riding around here consists of rock, more rock, and more and bigger rock. After eight seasons, you can tell it has been used but it is still in good shape. I've hit rocks hard enough to stop the bike (not on purpose) and while scratched up and marred, it is fine. I would recommend these to anyone. Along with their other products.
  3. Yamaguy55

    '15 WR250R temporary power loss South Fork,

    It sounds like it recovered. Did it fully? Some of these EFI bikes don't seem to compensate well for altitude. Some require that you shut it off, wait a bit, start back up. And keep doing that as you change altitude. I have a 2008 WRR, but mine stays at relatively low altitude, so I have no personal input on that. But I'm aware some do, just not which ones. Plugged vent in gas cap? Sounds like fuel problem. So if gas cap vent is partially plugged, that could cause it. The old style chromed Yamaha gas cap from a DT1 fits right on, and that's what I'm using. 122-24610-01-00 cap assembly. Got rid of the locking goofy looking thing and replaced it with a factory Yamaha low profile retro (in this case original) one. Seals better too, in case you like letting your bike take naps on trails as I sometimes do. The fuel filter is part of the pump, so you need a new pump if you want to change the filter. You can pull the pump and look: I had mine out and the filter was clean after 7K of very hard off road use. You can see in with a high intensity flashlight from above if the tank is empty. As the pump is fuel-cooled to some extent, avoid running low on fuel if possible, especially in hot weather. The early bikes had a run of bad pumps. Mine was in that list but I am still running the original pump. But I seldom go less than one half tank and I changed out the original radiator louvers with the one sold by Flatland Racing that drastically improves the air flow through the radiator. Fan almost never comes on. If your battery is tired, it can show a full charge (12.9VDC +/-) sitting, but not really be able to fully support the EFI. Mine did that this year: it showed 12.9VDC sitting with the key off, then dropped to 8.5 (!) while running. New battery installed and runs fine now. Put a meter across the battery while running. It should show about 13.5-14VDC. If not, the battery is probably pulling it down. If you haven't had the stator recall done, get it done. Everything on this depends upon a proper functioning electrical system, and any part not working will cause problems. Kudos on keeping the engine management stock. I think circumventing the emissions isn't as good an idea as some feel. They already beat on the car guys for fooling around, I'd prefer not to give them an excuse to come after us. They really thumped the car guys here a few years back: anything not stock had to be put back to stock or removed from the road. That's all I can think of.
  4. Yamaguy55

    1998 Yamaha YZ250 Clutch question

    Better to check than not check and be wrong. However, the parts list is a great resource. Check fifteen times, cut once.
  5. Yamaguy55

    Jets turning green and clogging

    My area is now starting to have ethanol free gas at pumps. Look around and see what you can find. Some of the smaller carbs have the most problems: The Chinese made pumper carbs on my pole saw and mantis tiller clogged so bad I replaced them, while the larger ones in my big chain saw and Stihl weed wacker just needed a rebuild. I then switched to ethanol-free gas and no problems since. The do sell it in home stores by the one gallon cans but it is very steep. A station nearby put in a pump, and that's where I go. The grandkid's PW80 was a real problem as it sat a lot between uses. I switched to ethanol free and it starts right up every time. I think pre-mix two strokes with larger carbs have less problems, probably because of the oil in the gas helping keep the corrosion at bay. Etanol sucks moisture out of the air easily and with gusto. The bowl vents are more than sufficient.
  6. Yamaguy55

    Dirt on spark plug. Be concerned?

    Vacuum the hole well. Clean the old plug and run it in a few turns. Use compressed air in the drain hole to blow the rest of the crap out, assuming you have a drain hole. My Wr250R does. I put the air to it every time I pull the COP. Lots of fun things come out. Put a good grade of anti-seize on the new plug threads and don't overtorque. Dirt in plug threads can easily remove said threads from head. Changing the oil means nothing unless your rings are gone or the piston has a big hole in it. The dirt is in the combustion chamber, not the sump. Hopefully, it will just blow out the exhaust.
  7. Yamaguy55

    Even loctite didn't save me... what do I need?

    The numbers on the metric bolt heads correspond to hardness the way the marks on SAE bolts did. You need to use the upper end of hardness, without going overboard on torque. Many metric bolts are 8.8, but I'd go for the 12.xx ones (sorry, can't remember the LSD. Suffice to say grade 12 metric will be plenty strong) Use red or even green loctite. Remember, loctite can be loosened with heat, and I'm sure the engine heat is close, if not over the amount needed. Makes me wonder when loctite comes with spark plug thread repair kits, especially on air cooled four strokes. Go to Loctite website and see what they offer, there may be a heat resistant version. If you're concerned about the "nut" end, use Timeserts: they'll never come out and are plenty torque proof. Torque: I've been doing this a long time (since the sixties) and with the exception of the one-time-use head and rod bolts, most bolts will give you a "feel" if you don't use a five foot cheater bar. I run bolts of unknown torque in until they seat. Then, if you carefully turn them in, you can feel where they suddenly need a lot more pressure to tighten further. That is the bolt stretching. An additional turn of about the equal of noon to one o'clock (30 degrees) is usually about right. Loads the bolt but doesn't kill it. This is similar to those rod bolts that get XX ft/lbs and then xx degrees after that. Also similar to taper seat spark plugs. Let us know how it went.
  8. Yamaguy55

    1998 Yamaha YZ250 Clutch question

    I can understand why you would look for the ball- it is sort of a Yamaha trademark. Most Yamahas have them. Yours does not. Your answer was easily found on the Yamaha website in the parts section: has a drawing and list of everything. You may wish to look there for simple answers, I've found the parts drawings invaluable when I can't remember the order that parts need to go in. If you don't have the owners manual, get one: for YZs, that is the service manual. If the clutch basket and boss are toast, consider a Barnett: they have steel covers on the basket where the plate tabs ride so they will not groove. The part on the actuation arm that lives inside the engine at the far end of that pushrod bears against usually wears if the really good specific for two strokes gear lube isn't used. Most people thrash their bikes and move them on. Replace that item and the pushrods as well. Seal too.
  9. Yamaguy55

    Air filter questions

    Forgot: wear disposable gloves: you don't need any of those chemicals processed in your liver.
  10. Yamaguy55

    Air filter questions

    I have used the BelRay stuff for as long as I can remember, and it works great. Due to the blue dye, you can tell if you missed a spot. Put some waterproof grease on the part of the filter that seats against the airbox: it prevents any dirt from sneaking by. I've adopted a replacement regimen with my filters: they are usually pretty inexpensive (especially when compared to engine parts!) so if I think I cannot get them completely clean and there is any chance that some dirt may work it's way completely inside, I just replace it. It doesn't hurt to have several (cleaned, oiled and ready, in zipper bags) and just swap when you clean the bike. You can decide which clean up well. Take a very good look at the inside when clean and dry before oiling and see if any debris can be seen. If so, not clean. The lighter the color, the easier it is to see it. I used to have a half-a$$ed chum that spent as little time as possible cleaning filters and there was always crud showing on the inside. His engines didn't last. His chains had short lives as well. It pays to be OCD if you like long parts life and reliability of anvils. On the track, you're never that far from your truck/van, but woods riding out in the middle of nowhere with no cell coverage, it makes a real difference. The availability of help is also vastly different between the two.
  11. Yamaguy55

    Remove Nut on Primary Drive

    Shop rags in the gears do a fine job, just make sure it is doubled/tripled over. Thinwall normal sockets should be robust enough to remove the nut. Use a long breaker bar and I think you'll be fine. I've removed hundreds of these. The motion pro clutch/countershaft/magneto tool is not necessary but is super nice to have. Being a Yamaha of that vintage, it is regular thread, so counterclockwise will remove it. Put some automatic transmission fluid in the engine and let to soak. If you managed to move it, it isn't completely stuck. However, if you're serious about this, then plan on a full rebuild including crankshaft/rod/piston/etc. Plus every seal and bearing in the engine. Use the good stuff, no cheap knock offs and it will run for a long time. If you can find fresh OEM it is probably the best, they last at least as long as the originals. I had a CT1 that I put 55,000 miles on: wore out two cranks, lots of bearings, and rebored my way through two cylinders. Those 175s were great, we had several. Too bad 200cc bikes are out of favor, high end ones are the perfect woods bike. The remark about the disc brake was helpful, although these were drum, both ends.
  12. Yamaguy55

    Carbi Synch for xt550

    If you go to the XT350 manual, around page 12 it tells you how to do this. They are not exactly the same, but the concept is identical. http://www.carlsalter.com/yamaha-service-manuals.asp And yes, it does make sense.
  13. Yamaguy55

    2004 XT250 ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM PLEASE.

    Maybe this: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
  14. Yamaguy55

    need 89 XT 600 3EW Factory Repair Manual

    I'm sure you do.....Not a new bike, and sitting is as bad as high mileage. If you go the rebore route, which isn't a reach with an '89, do the valves and install a Wiseco. Try this: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
  15. Yamaguy55

    WR250R resale

    Be aware that my WRR has a large number of modifications to make it more dirt worthy, so this isn't conjecture on my part. But here's the view from both sides. Accessories for bikes have the value that those valuing them think. So if nobody cares about your mods, they have no value. Just like scopes on traded in rifles: they add very little to the amount you'll be offered. I went looking for a nice used WRR a few years ago when my wife started making noises that she may want one too. ( she since changed her mind, so it was a no-go from the start) I would pay for proper mods that I know that I would do, such as a SC seat, Flatland plate, etc. The modified ones I found all had engine mods as well. And the owners did not have the original pipe and other parts to include with the sale. I passed on those. I have no problems with mods, but if you don't include the original parts, many will give it a pass. If you do, be sure to mention that all oem parts included. Be aware that substantial dos without a suitable brief explanation as to why/the value of. Otherwise, it either looks like a farkeling spree or possible hard use. Frankly, what stopped me for the purchases I saw was engine-pipe mods and no OEM stuff to put back on. It is already happening in some places: they are cracking down on engine/noise/emission mods. It is not now, nor has ever been, legal to do this. They just don't check or enforce it. They are starting to do just that. I went through the "I need more power" phase a few years ago, and almost traded/sold mine. Lucky for me, I woke up. The very few true options out there are either plated dirt bikes (read the above thing about cracking down on sound/emission mods) or truly "race bikes with lights" and the relationship they force upon you. I decided that I like the 26000 mile valve check intervals, zero engine problems, and sufficient electrical system to permit real headlights, not a 35W night light. I ride, wash, chain lube my bike for normal use, and the most I do is tire changes as required. I like the maintenance relationship. I've owned some of the brands on the RBWL side over the years, and won't be owned by any motorcycle any more. I did a period of MX bikes modified for off road use, and won't go back. I would like it if Yamaha would put the WRR on a diet and have it lose 50 pounds, but it really does work very well with minimal mods, and I have decided to stick with it. I ride with some KTM guys, and I have no problem keeping up in the ares we ride in. If I were a competitor, I might feel differently. But I'm not. The WRR, while not perfect, and a bit porky, is an outstanding motorcycle.
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