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About doublenickles

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  1. Make sure the flat plate on the carb slide is put in the right way. it's kinda counter intuitive if I remember correctly.
  2. I bought two of the No toil filters for my 06. The fit was poor and after using no toil oil and grease on the filter it fell apart on the first wash. I'm not sure if it was just a bad batch or what. I Love the no toil products and continue to use the oil and cleaner but I went to a Twin Air and it is a way better - thicker better seams and holds up way better. I'm not bashing No-toil but with something as important as a filter I would't run it.
  3. I recently had to buy some torque wrenches as I am away from home and no longer have access to my fathers 3/8 Warren and Brown torque wrench. Warren and Brown combine the accuracy and dependability of a beam wrench and adds a click mechanism as well. Warren and Browns are hard to find as they are made in Australia and I haven't been able to find a distributor at least here in Canada. Most spring click type wrenches even of high quality are not dependable especially if they are left with any load on the spring - You have to crank them down every time you put them away. You can never be sure of their accuracy unless you have them calibrated regularly which is not something most people are going to do. The more I looked into buying wrenches,I realized I needed 3 different wrenches to cover the range of torque I wanted. Torque wrenches are typically not accurate in their lower range of measure so its best to get overlapping wrenches and operate in the midrange and up portion of the scale. I settled on buying 3 used ebay beam style Sturtevant Richmont wrenches. They have no ratchet mech and are the most basic things out there. but for under a hundred bucks I have 3 accurate wrenches to cover all the fasteners on my CRF450. I rebuilt the entire bike from the ground up and never needed a ratchet head once. I couldn't be happier with my wrenches. I put them in a drawer and forget about them and I know they will be in calibration next week and in twenty years. Sturtevant richmont made the very first torque wrench In the USA and are of amazing quality. I can't recommend them enough. If you have more money I would look into the Snap/on/CDI split beams, the Warren and Brown or the nor bar wrenches. Unless you have a calibration machine at your disposal and or money to burn on a digital I would stay with some sort of Beam wrench! http://www.ebay.ca/itm/STURTEVANT-RICHMONT-TORQUE-PRODUCTS-MODEL-M200-1-BB-/191951459269?hash=item2cb132d3c5:g:d-IAAOSw-itXumu4
  4. I have a works connection one which bolts on the master cylinder. http://img0100.psstatic.com/117991355_works-connection-hot-start-rotating-brake-bar-clamp---.jpg Comes in red as well and has a plastic sleeve which might help the master cylinder turn instead of break.
  5. + 1 on Fenmore's post. I made a socket out of a old 11/16" 12 point in about 10 mins. I then ordered a motion pro one to torque it with. Mine would have worked okay but the motionpro one fits perfectly and your nut won't be beat to rat shit from a screwdriver. Any time you are slipping and chiselling a nut off you are introducing metal into the engine, I would rather do things slowly and methodically once. If you torque engine internals to spec and use thread locker where The Service manual states its great peace of mind. Its nice when your in 5th tapped not thinking that maybe that one bolt is coming loose and is about to grenade your Engine. Use the right tool!
  6. Ya I was looking for some of those grey covers as well as a disc guard and couldn't find any. I tried dying some of that honda white plastic grey as well and just ended up with purple which was no good!
  7. And finally here are some of the almost finished product!
  8. Had some trouble posting pics but here are some. I used permanent loctite on the main bearing retainers and torqued to spec and used blue on the tranny retainers. Should be good. With the ebay radiators I did get some money back its just a pain having to mod a new part.
  9. So after a long hiatus and a move I've got back at it. The bike was torn apart right down to a bare frame and the crank and was in boxes for the move so It was a bit of a challenge to get it all together as this is my first new age four stroke. I scoured the threads on thumper talk and tried as best I could to avoid the engine building pitfalls. I ended up buying 3 torque wrenches all Sturtevant Richmont beam type in different sizes for great prices on Ebay. It was great having a set of torque wrenches I could and can depend on for the rest of my life. I have to say I'm not a huge fan of the hot rods transmission bearing kits they fit and they may be fine but the bearings say china right on them which makes me a little nervous. I used the oven trick to remove the bearings and sweated the new ones in. One of the hardest things to find for assembly was bearing and seal retaining compound. I eventually found some loctite 609 and used it on the right crank seal so hopefully it won't leak. I bought some rads from ebay the oversize ones and the crossover tube spigot was welded in the wrong spot so had it modified which was expensive and a pain in the ass. Has anyone else had this problem? It seems there are 02-04 rads and 05-06 rads maybe I just got the earlier rads. Another fitment issue I had was with the Flatland skid plate its a great plate and I like it a lot however it just barely gets in the way of the oil filter so you have to take it off to change the filter! I think I may just grind a little bit off the top so I don't have to take it off. Otherwise happy though. After I got it all assembled I was excited to start it up. It wouldn't start! I kicked it and it would fire once in a while but would not run. I took the tank off checked timing for the hundredth time and finally came back in and searched thumper talk. Thank you so much Shawn Mac!! I found a post in which he suggested the carb slide plate was upside-down. I took it apart flipped it and voila she started and ran like a champ! Warmed her up and went and rode it for half an hour to break it in and couldn't be happier! the bike rips and although I have a few adjustments especially with the suspension I'm pumped! I really love the look of the old CRs and wanted to build a replica so this bike ended up being a kinda Rick Johnson/David Bailey 1980s replica I couldn't get the bailey decals anywhere so I just cobbled this together with stickers and I think it turned out great - I barely want to ride it! Thanks everyone on TT this Forum has been invaluable!
  10. HRC4 Should have bought your bike ! So went to rebuild my shock today as I noticed it was leaking a bit of oil. Ended up finding the shock body was destroyed started a thread about it here. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1177633-2006-crf450-resurrection/
  11. Bike is a new to me 06 CRF450 I went to rebuild the shock and the preload locking nut came off perfectly and the threads above and below the main nut were immaculate. However i couldn't get the main nut to budge first with a punch then with a spanner wrench I fabricated. I soaked it in penetrating oil nothing. I ended up modifying a 2 foot wrench and with difficulty I removed the nut. The threads were stripped out where the nut was and I fought it all the way down. Now I'm looking at buying a shock! The only thing I can think of that would cause this is the jam nut being loose and it being ridden that way? Any Ideas? Is it possible I missed something? I can't find anything in the manual and I watched a video and it seemed easy.
  12. Ya it was obvious that it would need lots of work when I got it I was just hoping to spread it out a bit instead of all at once. I live in Canada and it seems bikes are a bit more expensive here. I was looking for a 05-08 and they are around the 3500$ mark for a decent one. I got mine for 2 grand and it seemed to run good so Im not pumped about it but I'm not completely heartbroken about it either. Once I'm done I will have a bike that will last me a long time. Waiting on parts and should be doing some more work to her soon.
  13. I was hoping to get away with riding the motor for a season and doing a rebuild next winter depending on a leak down test. I decided to fabricate my own tester using some directions online I used some fittings, a regulator/gauge from a paint gun, an adaptor and gauge from a Compression tester and a grease gun hose. One of the keys to building one is making an orifice between the two gauges. I filled a fitting with JB weld and then drilled it out with a Testors Pin vice from a Hobby store the orifice must be .060 of a inch this is the standard I believe. Anyways I will be looking for some better gauges in the future but this was accurate enough for my purposes. Make sure if your doing a leak down test with the engine out of the frame you have a breaker bar on the Crank and the engine is TIED DOWN somehow. I ended up ratchet strapping it to the vice however it would be much easier to just do it in the frame. There is a ton of force on the engine when testing. Anyhow I could only get my motor to hold 25 out of 100 psi applied. The bike seemed to start fine cold and ran good but I could feel the intakes leaking during the test and could hear air getting past the rings as well. ARGH! At this point the bike started to get more expensive! Heres some pics of the tester and the internals. The intake valves ended up being zeroed out and the guides were worn as well so I ended up opting for a head from APE. The cylinder was Just on the edge of limits and the connecting rod was worn on the wrist pin as well. I found sludge on my flywheel magnets and there was noticeable play in the stator side main bearing. So long story short I ordered A new OEM crank, cylinder, piston, timing chain,main bearings and counterbalancer bearings as well as a rebuild kit for the water pump. I know some of this stuff I could have got away with like maybe either rebuilding the crank or just doing main bearings or using the old cylinder but if it blew up this season due to a shortcut I would be furious with myself. Do you guys think I should be doing the oil pump while i'm in there? I'm way over budget as it is and my VISA is groaning! woras
  14. And heres some more pics of the Chassis as I clean and rebuild it I used a steam cleaner scotchbrite and an aluminum acid cleaner from a Trucker supply store to clean the frame and swing arm and it worked really great.
  15. And here is some pics of the Rebuild so far. I took it apart in my entryway to bring into my basement in parts! I don't think the linkage bearings had ever been greased in 10 years. Same with wheel bearings which had to all be replaced.
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