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xxXXDeathXXxx

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About xxXXDeathXXxx

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

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  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    dirt bikes, stereos, computers
  1. xxXXDeathXXxx

    Quick queston

    In RV's white is positive vblack is negative. In residential black is hot, white is neutral. Makes sense huh? When in doubt check with a voltmeter.
  2. That Dicor sealant is a pain to remove. I have used acetone but it still takes some elbow grease. If you find something better I'd be intersted to know what it is. I've always wondered if something citrus based might work well or maybe some of that goo gone. The Eternabond is expensive. I just bought a roll to do my roof seems for insurance. I got mine through Granger which wasn't the absolute lowest price but they are local.
  3. That's the way the factories do it. Eternabond tape can add extra insurance on top of that. A lot of folks swear by it and will even use it as the primary seal. Oh. I thought your description sounded like this at first. I was looking at this add thinking boy if I didn't already have a setup I like this might be tempting. w/ genny and all. Not affiliated with seller btw just an occasional CL reader. Craigslist Ad
  4. I think I may have seen that WW on Craigslist. Seems like a decent investment for someone willing to fix it the right way if it's the one I saw. With that one you probably need to peel off the outer layer so you can find out if the frame is busted up or rotted out. Especially on the wood frame trailers like that one the leaks can quickly become the death of them. There's more leaking rotten frame cancered trailers around here because of all the rain. It sounds like that one may have been bashed too which means there could be hidden structural damage that happened when it got hit.
  5. Fix it the way the factory would with some butyl tape, and dicor. Then when the dicor dries put some eternabond tape over all the seams and it'll probably never leak again. Gotta check for rot first though and dry it all out real well.
  6. xxXXDeathXXxx

    Buying a used truck...

    Besides the regular stuff like has been mentioned, I really like to compression check anything I'm serious about. It can be a pain for a V8 or something but doing this has saved me on numerous occasions.
  7. xxXXDeathXXxx

    Dodge Ram Owners?

    Yeah, I have basically the same problem with my 5 speed 2nd gen Ram. I like the look of those floating mounts better than the front of the seat floor mount I bought.
  8. xxXXDeathXXxx

    Dodge Ram Owners?

    Nice truck man! How did you mount the radios? Is that a ram mount? It's hard to see. It looks as if they may be floating in mid air.
  9. I'm not really sure but I believe it may be some version of a M551 Sheridan. I'll have to ask. All aluminum armor and since it came off a target range it's completely peppered with ~1.5-2" diameter holes. It makes a fine driveway ornament but it would take some real dedication/insanity to do all the welding and other work to fix it. oh yeah, trailers and stuff.
  10. Here's mine parked behind my Mom's tank up at her N Id compound. We stopped in for a visit on the way home from a road trip up through Kalispel to trade some street bikes with a guy off CL earlier this summer. It's a 5X8. For me that is about perfect. It fits the bikes and whatever else I don't want in the camper. Also the small size with the axle flip and the 35" tires I added will allow for going through more rugged terrain without clearance issues. My only remaining complaint is the ball hitch. I've worried a couple times going through big transitions whether the thing would reach it's limits and something would break, but apparently haven't found the limit yet. I may want to switch to pintle one day. Another consideration...I like the swinging door style as you can fit those Hablo lock kits on there. Don't know if it has ever been needed but I like the peace of mind when the trailers full of expensive stuff.
  11. xxXXDeathXXxx

    new cam for my ole dodge

    Which superchips do you have? The superchips are supposed to be pretty good however the SCT is generally considered to be the best. I don't knwo how much since my Ram has OBD1 which isn't compatible with either. I run the Dodge performance PCM which that say is god but not up to the SCT etc. SCT supposedly does everything that can be done except the speedo adjustment. Many of things it does such as remove the torque management cannot be accomplished by the superchips. One advantage some of the superchips models have as I understand it is the ability to modify speedo calibration to compensate for tire size changes and the SCT doesn't do that. Among dudes who build magnums the SCT is the go to solution because hemifever is this tuning wizard guy who can give you custom tunes for any engine combo conceivable. As far as y pipes. Dodge changed around so much through the years you'll probably have to measure what you need. If I had to guess I'd say probably a 2X 2" in and 1X 3" out. I have the magnaflow y and that seems fine.
  12. xxXXDeathXXxx

    new cam for my ole dodge

    One other thing man. These magnum engines are notorious for blown plenum gaskets which when blown rob like 25% or your horsepower. You want to make sure that thing aint blown before doing anything else. Seriously they go out like every 20K miles when using the oem setup. Hughes makes a plenum repair kit which fixes the problem so it never happens again. Highly recommended tuneup type mod. You can often tell if your plenum gasket is blown by shining a flashlight down in your throttle body opening and looking for pooled oil down on the plenum plate. Another good thing to do on a high mile magnum engine is upgrade to a nice double roller timing chain. Might as well replace water pump while your in there doing the timing chain.
  13. xxXXDeathXXxx

    new cam for my ole dodge

    Here's what I'd recommend. 1. SCT tuner with performance tune 2. replace factory y-pipe with something like a Magnaflow y-pipe. The factory y's are horrible choke point yu can see when you cut them open. 3. Aftermarket 3" I/O universal fit magnaflow cat. 4. 3" cat back with high flow muffler of choice. Just this could probably get you over 40 hp for 3-400 bucks installed. Throw in those H&S 1.7:1 ratio roller rockers, efan, headers, 52mm throttle body, and a ram air intake and you'd have a whole new truck. But some of this stuff can be pricier. BTW I was only recommending new valve springs if you get a more radical cam. By themselves valve springs wont buy you anything unless your stockers are completely shot.
  14. xxXXDeathXXxx

    new cam for my ole dodge

    What kind of power are you trying to make.? ie torquey stump puller power for pulling a load or peaky dragstrip power for high RPM screaming? Alot of guys like the KRC 206X grind as kind of an RV cam but the 210X is more racey. KRC is out of business now but I believe you can still buy their grinds from comp cams. Dodge has some R/T cams but mostly dragstrip guys are the ones that seem attracted to them. Whatever you do you'll likely need to upgrade valve springs etc as well especially if your heads already have some miles. Either way you decide to go with the power profile you'll likely need a retune for the cam which is best accomplished via SCT tuner programmed by Hemifever. This tuner is highly recmended anyway to override the factory "death flash" your truck came with from the factory. The term death flash may sound cool but trust me it isn't. Dodge basically crippled these trucks by detuning them through the years via weak computer tunes in an attempt to cover other design flaws and avoid recalls. A proper performance tune makes a gigantic improvement on a death flashed vehicle in both power and mileage. An alternate less expensive route that wouldn't require retuning the computer or new valve springs/retainers etc would be the Harland & Sharp 1.7:1 ratio non adjustable roller rockers. It bumps up lift slightly and so adds a little kick but isn't so wild the computer can't handle it. They say the lifters are good for around 20hp or so and as many or more ft.lbs of torque but that's just what I've read. You can picke them up for around $300 and thay are way less complicated install than a cam. All the upgrade recomendations assumes the truck is in a good state of tune first. Obviously if you already have a leaking plenum gasket or super worn plugs or something robbing 50hp your best first bet would be getting her up to spec first.
  15. xxXXDeathXXxx

    E150 Mods for Performance and Mileage

    Get a Lincoln Mark IV fan out of a junk yard and a cheap efan controller kit off summit, probably get it all for around a hundred. High flow magnaflow cats off ebay are like $80. If you can't find a good muffler shop to do the rest for less than $300 more keep shopping. With that 4.6 liter I'd probably be thinking 2.5" for the cat and back. Pay close attention to any factory wye pipe right before the cat. Those are usually something you want to replace. When you cut it off you'll see why...cheapo OEM shortcuts are really horrible usually. Jegs/summit has sub $50 wye pipe replacement solutions if it turns out that makes sense which it usually does.
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