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About Taffy

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    TT Titanium Member

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    United Kingdom

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  1. Hello I do a jetting kit for the Husabergs, it is best to see my advert on ebay UK. this started as being for the 400, then 450, 550, 501, 628 and 644. then, knowing it would work on all SOHC european bikes: I got it onto the 400, 450 and 525 KTMs. I've fitted the kit to about 5 KTM LC4s over the years and they have run sweet in the workshop but of course you can't be there with the owner and they can panic a little. I have left the LC4s till last because nobody races them as such and the back-to-back testing is never compacted and results validated. The reason I didn't put a kit up for sale knowing it would be OK was because the LC4s seem to need a Huge PJ compared to anything else and so we needed to kind of believe what we thought we believed....bloody hell! it REALLY IS true!!! But anyway, I had someone in this week that did everything I recommended and we've sussed it for sure. so if any of you care to try it, your welcome to contact me. as for this topic, there is a good deal of power to be made by machining the front face of the carb off and fitting a bellmouth. a bellmouth that would then have a neck behind it for the airbox rubber to fit too. we fit a 2" stack inside a cone air filter and it makes a lot more power...very noticeable. back in June, I fitted a blue bellmouth as a stand alone change to the Sidecarcrosser I tune and sponsor and he said the difference was real, especially in the 'meat' of the power. with these big engines, the 39/41 are way too small for real performance. so in an attempt to get more out of the Husey, I have bored one out to 44mm and it runs really well. however, any of you that have done the big bore mod (to 43mm usually) will know, the centre ring gets out of step with the entry and exit. so my next tests, now I have no splutters from the stepped carb: is to put a 1.5mm plate in the carb to lower the centre ring. the centre ring is also weak now of course because it is so thin. I'm going to 'try' (as the engineer has the last say) and get these centre rings made with as much precision and meat left on them as I can so they aren't so frail but it should mean a good 44mm carb. I just need to know that lowering the centre ring and the lower half of the carb is not going to run crap. one step at a time right? just to let you know what kind of power they release, I have a Husaberg I tuned in the Norwegian Kross-kart championship and he uses the big Mikuni. he swears it produces over 90bhp. now I could tell you what he really claims but I find it impossible to believe! so let's all just say that he "claims 90bhp" and it HAS to be the big Mikuni as I know the rest of what makes the motor go! Essentially, a jetting kit, inside a 44mm carb, with a 2" stack and a cone air filter (OK, maybe not on the KTMs but necessary on the Huseys) will produce a huge leap in performance. kind regards Taffy Taffmeisters UK
  2. I realise this answer is a little late. my advice is to close the fuel screw until you have a hanging idle. this is in the workshop OK? then unscrew (richen) till it is gone. from there, set off for a ride and get ready to adjust. when finished and it is the best it can be, turn the motor off. check how many turns in to close the PS. next, find the PAJ in the front face of the carb and write the number down, same for the PJ. from here you can make the right move if you writr to me via an email at my workshop. I used to be the postest with the mostest but that was 14 years ago here. there is a PJ to PAJ correlation and then there is getting the pair right. that is dictated by the needle clip a little and the PS turns. there are even times when I have felt that the Keihin FCR has the wrong slide cutaway. but that's another day! happy days! Taffy
  3. Taffy

    Fixing 2002 fe501

    Hello yes I have quite a few of them. one of the things that nobody usually gets through! Taffy
  4. Taffy

    got an FCR need help

    i agree 100% ed! and were they right? were yamaha right in 98? in 99? when they had a 100PAJ? nope! these tests have been done on other bikes and stand up every bit as much now as they did then? can you tell me what technuically has changed for things to have changed? regards Taffy
  5. Taffy

    half choke

    yeh ha ha ha and i'm thick! try reading your own quote for the answer mate! ok? actually i didn't ride it. there you go! i started three or four of them up and put customers on them for the trail ride. i trust they all found the correct position. i just had to get them running and used half choke mostly. i did ride one later in the day, can't talk of the choke as the bike ran great and everyone wanted to ride one before the WR250s that were there. anayway, drilled the MJ to 1.2mm and now they fly and it's all sorted. it was my first ever experience of choke = up in 35 years of riding so i'll take it on the chin. i still chuckle at it now! regards Taffy
  6. Taffy

    got an FCR need help

    eddie your information is wrong. the correct PAS setting for a 38PJ is just 3/8ths of a turn out from closed. small air for small juice. i have chart for this which i did in 2001 whilst still riding a WR400. therefore 100% right for yamaha http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/Carburation the PAS affects the area coming off PJ onto the needle and it's possible to find a flat spot at low/medium revs in say third gear as the mix is too lean. the PS is in to lean it all back down again. take the PAS down to 3/8, turn the PS out to 1.5 and then try the snap wheelie test making adjustments either side of 1.5 turns to get the right get-go. you still haven't told us which needle and the clip you are running or the APJ status. so there is still plenty of mileage in this thread .... regards Taffy
  7. i hope you didn't mean me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! try toffee with a double f and a double e! regards Taffy
  8. Taffy

    half choke

    no just the MJ. i've found the problem! i have only ridden it for about 10 miles in snow and i have discovered today that the choke works in the opposite direction! up is on etc etc. the needle will be tried lower tomorrow. they wree the only two things i thought i needed to do? regards Taffy
  9. evenin! i have put a 120MJ in my 230 and was happy that given that it was okj before when warm: that it would be fine now! but now it hates running without half choke? i have blown out the carb and also tried the little FS under the front both in and out. have i missed a trick? regards Taffy
  10. Taffy

    Ignition Switch needed for Sherco 4.5i

    it's basically the same one as the husaberg has used for 7 years and if only i lived in the USA i'd send you about 4 different ignition keys to try. i've been lucky and one key did fit my third lock from my first lock. go into a husaberg shop and ask for all the keys! regards Taffy
  11. Taffy

    Sherco Enduro Parts Cross Reference

    only jesting mate! no worries. just thought i'd let ya stew on that one for a few days! but i'm learning new stuff about these all the time and i hope this very useful thread continues. regards Taffy
  12. Taffy

    Sherco Enduro Parts Cross Reference

    where i come from you would stick your head in the oven first and then you could receive this "gass"? i believe it's known as a 'backhanded compliment'!!! well i have now stripped and rebuilt an '06 and i would make the following observations: tappets these can be done by undoing the left radiator from it's mount, rolling it around whilst on the hoses and to lay against the side of the head. i was able to work around it very easily and changed an exhaust tappet shim. ? i quetstion whether the tappet clearances are correct? the factory figures that is? i believe the exhaust valve gaps are possibly too large? if you have a cam follower bearing go west if you didn't know, it's necassary to purchase the entire rocker arm if things go wrong. but they are identical to early husaberg follower bearings from 2001-2003. the pin they roll on is 8mm and just needs knocking out and a new 'husaberg' assembly fitting. afterwards, use a cold chisel to 'dink' the pins and make sure they don't come out in use. i was speaking to a UK bloke yesterday named neil and he has many more cross refeerences. i've told him to come and look for this thread and maybe he'll add his here. regards Taffy
  13. just ordered new... cheers taffy
  14. Taffy

    tappet clearances - bad!!!!

    cheers troops av - nice link mate! the only other one is bent valves but i don't think so... we'll see regards Taffy
  15. Taffy

    tappet clearances - bad!!!!

    cheers bill! i did several searches just now and found the info i needed. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544100&highlight=cam+timing also these golden numbers: Cam timing on a wr/yz 250 at tdc there should be 12 pins on the timing chain between the 12 o'clock dots on both cams, 13 on a wr. the cam lobes on the right side of the bike should be facing away from each other, intake cam at 10 o'clock and exhaust cam at 2 o'clock. hope this helps. cheers so i'm sorted mate? any thoughts on the crazy tolerances on two of the valves? regards Taffy