kx200

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About kx200

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  1. When the large part of the adjuster nut was flush with the cover. This put the right side adjuster marks in the lower part of the range. I have just moved them to the upper part of the range and will try the bike in the morning.
  2. Bought a used 200 mxc with an eye on racing it next year for fun. Had a few problems that I have sorted out but am still struggling with a big one. When I first got it it topped out on the radar gun at 49 mph! that is with 14/48 gearing. I took the engine apart and found the center power valve stuck in the half closed position and the left and right gears in backwards. Scrapped 1/4 inch of carbon off the valve, freed it up, and put everything back together the way it is supposed to be. Felt much better but it still falls flat at the top and maybe hits the mid 50's. I put a new plug in, adjusted the power valve starting point (flush with cover), cleaned the air filter, checked the carb (184 main) and it was clean, and repacked the silencer (it had NO packing in it- funny it sounds no quieter with the packing than without!). It seems to run strong through the gears and just signs off all of a sudden. If I back off of wide open in 6th it speeds up. Any thoughts? Other than not revving out and the shifting being notchy I love this thing and think it would be a fun desert bike. Help, help, HELP!!!
  3. Thanks for all the replys. It is an XR600 that I am talking about. The flat slide carb is alot like the Square slide but the bottom is also flat- no oval. It has problems both hot and cold. It started Friday after 68 kicks. Started Saturday with 1 kick when it was stone cold and the temp was 36. Go figure! I've checked the ground and the connections on the electrical parts and the all look good and have good continuity. I pulled the plug and grounded it on the frame and sometimes there is spark and sometimes there isn't so it sure seems like something electrical to me. When it does run it has a slight sputter at high RPM if that helps. It also has a Baja designs kit with the old style switch- I have heard of some problems with those but not intermittantly. BTW- lite beer and it did snow the next day;)
  4. I have a '99 that is an "occasional" starter. It starts when it wants and doesn't when it doesn't. It runs fine when it is running with the exception of a slight miss when the throttle is held W/O. I have spoke to my mechanic and he said it may be the ignition "trigger" on the right side of the bike, a poor ground on the coil, or something else in the ignition. He also said that the miss may be a worn needle. Anyone have these problems and found the fix? Thanks Joe PS: I have a square slide Kehin carb and am also looking at what others are using for jetting at 4,000'.
  5. One tip that Jeff Fredette gave me on the E model KIPS is to replace the alum collers with the sub-ports because they wear and cause the sub-ports to fail. After putting in new collers take a smalle punch and put 4-6 dimples near the outside of the collers to keep them centered. It seems to work pretty good Cheers Joe
  6. I run a 14/45 combo with a Renthal o-ring. My bike is ported, piped, jetted...blah, blah, blah and I race in the south-west where it is nice to air it out at 90+. In the mid-west woods I ran 14-50/52. That gave me plenty of snap to get over logs and more than enough top end to reach the theoretical top speed of the course- 24 mph. I like to run the countershaft sprocket as large as possible and use the rear to get the speed I want- the chain angle is lessened that way. Remember the wider your gearing (14/45 is very wide while 13/50 is very close) the larger the gap between the gears and vise versa. The KDX is a pretty wide gearbox to begin with so gearing taller will make it even taller. gearing lower will tighen-up the gear spacing. Last thoughts- tall gearing will increase your top speed (while taking longer to get there), widen the gear spacing, and smooth out the powerband. Low gearing will lower your top speed (but you will get there quicker, tighten-up the gear spacing, and pep up the powerband. Buy a couple of front sprockets to play with (13,14,15) and see what works best for you. Once you find that out do the math and order the smallest rear sprocket to go with the largest front sprocket that works on your bike. Cheers Joe PS: I talked to the folks at Rekluse a couple of years ago at the LV Enduro-cross and they said if I let them have my KDX for a couple of weeks they would design an auto for it. If you are serious give thems a call.
  7. It would be OK to use the clutch to kill the engine if you have to but DON"T, DO NOT, NEVER.....EVER use the decomp lever to kill the bike unles you want to rebuild the valve train. I have seen several XR's killed (pun intended) in that manner. Replace the kill swith or but a BD kit on and use the little rocker. Cheers Joe
  8. I found the engine on the D-37 web site. Great source for parts by the way. A guy in Apple Valley picked up a rat bike for free from his friend and decided it would be better to part it out than to fix it ( it had sat outside for many years). For giggles he kicked over the bike and after cleaning the carb and chasing out the spiders it started to his suprise. Joe
  9. If I remember right it is supposed to shave about #20 pounds off the XR's numbers. It deffinately is lighter than a stock XR with muuuch better suspension. Not as light as my YZ 250 though! I saw somewhere on the net that 100 of the frame kits were produced and about 40 of them sold. Maybe there are still a few of the kits sitting around in storage somewhere. Does anyone know how to get ahold of Horst? I lost track of him in the mid '90's. The frame was made by C&J (now red feather). Give them a call they may still have the specs. http://redfeathermotorsports.com/home.html The swingarm was made by calfab (I think they are out of bussiness). Good luck on that one. Update- I got the sprocket parts tonight and actually rode the beast! Only rode it a couple of miles but man I love this thing. The suspension with the anti-torque device is so plush. I was just rolling over the rocks like they weren't. Probably not the best for moto or long desert whoops. I can't wait to try it in the daylight. Still have to find the headlight- I know it's here... somewhere. I might try putting the '99 electronics on it. Does anyone know if there was any significant change in the CDI unit from '88 to '99? Can't wait till Friday to ride it more! Joe
  10. Already on order- I can't wait!
  11. Hello everyone. It's been a while but I almost have "Frankie" on the road. The replacement engine I found turned out to be a good running '99 that I picked up for $300. All the mounting holes matched up. It was a tight fit but I got the engine in over the weekend. The fit is sooo tight I had to "tap" the spacers in with a 3# sledge! I had to grind some of the cooling fins down to make clearance for the oil lines. The only remaining issues are the sprocket (the new one has more splines and I don't have the mounting plate) and the headlight (I can't find it but I know I've seen it recently- at least once in the last two uh... three years). Here are some pic's http://s1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee470/kx200 Thanks Joe
  12. Thanks for the help guys. It appears that the engine is a 1999. Bonus. I was told it was a 1989 when I bought it! Thanks Joe