Jump to content

cdf450

Members
  • Content Count

    2,855
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

1 Follower

About cdf450

  • Rank
    TT Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Alberta

Recent Profile Visitors

2,721 profile views
  1. Yeah you’re right. I didn’t look at it like that. I guess it could possibly cause the jet to just “drool” out the oil and not actually squirt it. Oh well. Lesson learned. I figured drilling it gave me a 1% chance at fixing it whereas keeping it plugged gave me a 0%. Worth a try. I had the bottom end tore down and the jet and oil pumps replaced. Bike runs good so far. Only got 1 hour on it though.
  2. I dont know what would drain the battery other than the TT voyageur. itll do it even if the bike isnt ran for a few hours, in the minor cold like loading up in the shop when it ran fine then driving 45 mins to the riding spot. even the XP10 wouldnt jump it. needed a truck with booster cables. so im leaning towards a permanently killed battery due to too deep of a discharge. pretty frustrating. jumped it with the truck, rode all day just fine. started fine 10 times. bike sat in the shop for 2 days and it wont start now. voyageur tells me the voltage right on the screen.
  3. Yup. They’ve been getting rain. Beats the -40 were getting here though. Leaving on Tuesday! [emoji41]
  4. ok getting real sick of constant battery problems with my 13 450sxf. I bet ive spent close to $1000 trying to get rid of this problem and it just wont go away. its a snowbike. first I had an anti gravity Li-ion battery... it didnt like the cold. so I bought a yuasa ytz7s battery. it worked pretty good but the SXF stator wasnt enough to keep it charged with a LED headlight and heated grips. it would always die and not e start the bike back up so I bought external battery posts and an anti gravity xp10 jump starter. did the trick on the trail when it died. even then, on some cold mornings it wouldnt start at -15 ish. let the bike sit all summer, and the battery died, naturally. during the summer, I sent my stator to baja designs to get rewound to 90 watts... should be enough to charge the battery. the xp10 wouldnt even jump it anymore... weird. only brings it from 11.3 to about 12.5 ish. I needed a big industrial car charger hooked to it. that got the voltage to the 14.4+ real quick, she started up, a few times. so I loaded up and went riding. got to the staging area.. no start again. so we boosted if off buddies truck. started up. I rode all day. shut the bike off probably 10 times, started up fine each time, im sure at this point and an hour or so of riding that the 90w stator charged it up. bikes sat in the shop for two days and its back down to 11.3 volts or so and wont start the bike... the shop isnt even cold and it was fine last time I rode it. whats going on here? I got nothing plugged in or left on that could be draining. there is a trailtech voyageur on it but its off and im sure its not the culprit. ive spent $300 on batteries, $200 on a jump starter and $300 for the rewind and still got a bike that wont start... really pissing me off. whats going on?? did I overdrain this battery and permanently kill it?
  5. They are right. I’ve got a 450sxf with a 520 big bore and even its underpowered at times. I think the track makes a world of difference. The yeti maxtrack 2 sucks. Camsos new track is where it’s at
  6. yes sir... and I got dinged for a new one despite my original having only 4 minutes runtime on it. BUT, that rear angled oil jet I was told sprays to the center of the small end of the crank rod, and lubes that wrist pin through that slot in the rod. also, there was very very minor damage in the small end of the rod but nothing you could feel with your fingernail, and my bottom end guy bore gauged it and came back fine, but there was visual marks. so maybe I did damage the original wrist pin. anyways, motor ran good, ive got 1/3rd of a tank through it. a few short WFO runs in the snow, like less than 3 seconds... I was scared to twist the throttle. now the yeti snowmx track attachment is having problems. the upper and lower sprockets for the belt drive are out of alignment and caused my belt to walk off and get shredded. I put a new belt on in the shop to test and started it on the stand... it also tried to walk off the sprockets and shredded the edge of it a little. damnit, these are $110 a piece. good news is yeti will warranty it and fix it all for free as its part of a recall so im dealing with that now.... I just wanna get some snowbiking in before I go ride Moab!! #firstworldproblems. was nice to get out and get a little throttle therapy though. where in AZ? im going to St George, UT and Moab in a week and St George is like 15 mins from the AZ border..youre scaring me. theyve been getting lots of rain lately. hopefully its not ugly there!!
  7. yeah thats all anyones talking about.. its impressive how popular it is haha. some states like Minnesota seen nearly -60 with the windchill!!! thats scary cold, even for a canadian! I imagine you dont gotta worry way down in texas though. ever seen a snowbike down there in real life? were gonna see -25 this weekend for 2 days then back to 0 (32) right after that. cant really complain I guess.
  8. it absolutely sucks. no joke. this is the worst winter weve ever seen. its nice for life in general and highway driving... but for guys with sleds and stuff its horrible. went out today and there was barely any snow, AND the snow sucked because it was 40F/5C. last year we literally had 40' in the mountains at this time and handlebar deep powder every couple days.. just one of those winters I guess. last winter spoiled me thats for sure. im just glad to have the bike back running!! been stressing about that since march 2018.
  9. thanks man! shes got a twin too out there somewhere. not cheap ($35k each) but well worth it!
  10. I was mainly looking for coolant as some stated that the warped head could of caused coolant to enter the cylinder and wash the oil from the cross hatch which is what caused my setup to be scored within 4 minutes. confirmed that was not the case. also was curious as to if there was any shavings in the oil which there should of been as my angled oil jet was plugged up and the guy that did the bottom end said there was shavings in there and some of the oil ports, as well as the stuff I personally found in the metal screens. Ive got amsoil break-in oil now. going to run it for a full tank and about 3-5 engine hours then send that for an analysis too just to help me sleep at night. make sure theres no shavings from the oil set up, or that the new setup isnt making shavings. also going to cut out the oil filter pleats and spread them for a closer look. also going to boroscope down the spark plug hole to see if I can see the cylinder. yes, I have trust issues. (not in any of the people who touched my motor... but I dont trust the motor in general. was scary riding it today and getting to full throttle for the first time.. my nerves are shot)
  11. FYI heres the oil sample from the 4 minute setup: and also, for future readers or anyone whos reading now... that water temp part is fairly important, Travis from thumper racing said " The FI cold start and switch over point use that temp sensor to read engine temps DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE OR EVEN START IT UNTIL YOU VERIFY it is working correctly or just replace it to be sure. If that sensor is damaged it can throw the FI curve out the window if it is giving faults reading making the engine think it's colder or hotter than it is." oops. I rode it for about an hour today, lightly. will get a new sensor ASAP!
  12. cdf450

    swollen clutch membrane

    So the reason my clutch lever wasn’t rebounding wasn’t the membrane (or maybe it was) but the plunger in the master cylinder was jamming up... I had a HELL of a time bleeding it after replacing the slave. I was basically trying to bleed it with the clutch lever pulled in as the plunger was stuck inside. Was also not easy to dig outta there with needle nose pliers. Glad I had a spare on hand. Brand new slave, new clutch plates, master cylinder rebuild, new membrane, and fresh dot 4 fluid and the clutch works and feels amazing now. Nicole forwarded the info to brembo and hopefully get a replacement for my other bike. Will keep you all updated.
  13. This is the only decent pic I could get from the two oil pump assemblies. The marks are too small and my camera skills suck The guy that did bottom end also noticed that I must of melted my coolant temp sensor when I overheated it the first time when it was around 20 engine hours old. I don’t think this piece is overly critical for now as I’ve got two trailtech temp sensors (voyageur) as well as the rad cap temp gauge Was up till 1am last night tinkering with it. It’s 90% done. Few small things today and we’re off for a break in ride! Will keep you guys updated.
  14. it was from the original motor, which I dont know what initially hurt it. but I continued to run it for 55 HARD hours (snowbike... like several 90 second WFO screaming runs up a mountain) after I over heated it one day and warped the head. at that point, the rads were pressurizing so bad they were steaming within 10 mins and stinking like exhaust fumes so I decided to rebuilt it. when I tore it apart, the piston and cylinder were VERY badly scored. I imagine thats where all the shavings came from. they didnt get caught in the filters for some reason. (the guy who redid my bottom end said the o rings on the end of the metal screens were hard and barely doing their job. maybe thats where?) so, I installed a new big bore piston and cylinder, ran it for 4 mins at idle in the shop, and thats when I realized/confirmed my head was warped and slowlyyyyy leaking (was warped by .005") so I popped the head off, and turns out that within that 4 mins my brand new piston and cylinder were already scored. turns out the rear angled jet was clogged from the very first 55 hour catastrophe and thats what caused my second setup to get ruined too. lesson learned the hard way. 1. are you supposed to test all jets when doing a top end? 2. how do you test that rear angled jet as its not fed unless the head and cylinder are on? why the filter and screens didnt catch those shavings and allowed them to clog up that jet is the main question now. my bottom was fully gone through, everything looked good and measured out nicely (bearings, crank rod, shift forks, etc..). a few of the oil pump pieces were scarred (ill post pics later) so those were replaced, as well as that angled jet that was clogged and then drilled open (I figured drilling was a 1% chance at fixing it.... better than the 0% chance that a clogged jet provided.. worth I try I guess, had nothing to lose). otherwise those seemed to be the only pieces in the bottom end that suffered damage from the shavings created by the 55 hour setup.
×