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Everything posted by md30

  1. just did. they said as long as its under fifty pounds and 62 linear inches I should be fine. thanks thumpertalk moderator: please close thread
  2. I'm flying internationally and want to check in a pair of tires. I'm gonna wrap them together in nylon, like how they came when they were delivered to my house. Is that something the airlines would let me do? Anyone done it?
  3. I'm rebuilding my 2002 cr250 engine. I got a new pro-x piston after reading so many positive reviews, but was dismayed with the jagged edges around the bottom of the piston. Is this normal? Seems like a sure way to scratch up your cylinder wall! It's only smooth on the flat edges around the piston skirt, but on the four curved areas it's rough as hell. I know I could file them down, but it's not very comforting that a piston can come like that from a factory! Full pictures:
  4. I'll probably just file it down and use it. My bike does have a bridge but from what I read only forged pistons (like Wiseco) need to be drilled. This is specifically why I wanted a cast piston. My original piston (which you can see in my video in my other thread about my clutch exploding) which has 67 hours on it still looks pretty new! still shiny, no blow-by, no deep scratches! I wish Honda didn't discontinue them!
  5. It just doesn't seem worthy of the "Made in Japan" stamp on it! If they cut corners around the edges like that it makes you question the overall quality of the piston! You know what I mean?!?!
  6. 2002 CR250. Original clutch, with 67 hours on the bike total. Yesterday I was going up a nasty hill and the engine got up to 250F (Edit: I incorrectly wrote 250C in my original post).. the clutch started slipping like crazy and there was this nasty strong burning clutch smell. Today I went to change the tranny oil and only 400ml of 650 came out, along with a ton of glitter. So i filled it back up with oil to flush it out, and more aluminum flakes came out. I did it again and still more flakes, some large, so i removed the clutch cover to find that one of the plates was shredded! i then removed the whole side cover and there were alummnium bits everywhere. about 60% of that plate was just reduced to flakes. but the sprockets all still look good. the clutch basket has a couple notches in it but they appear minor so I'll just file those. As far as cleanup, what do you all recommend?? this is all that's left of the plate:
  7. you should start a youtube channel to showcase your grill and gravity techniques. that park at the beginning of my video is carnegie, in norcal, near livermore/tracy
  8. I'm posting a screenshot, maybe that will show up for you. the tricky one to remove without a special tool seems to be the one circled in green because you can only access it from one side. any ideas? i have a heat gun and a propane torch.
  9. Here's a video of my progress thus far:
  10. Hey guys quick couple of questions on bearing removal: The transmission bearings are totally shot and need to be replaced. The right side case bearings were easy to pound out, but the left side are a littler trickier. I don't have the case in front of me to take pictures, so I found a photo of a 99 crank case online which is similar enough to pose my questions: 1. How do you suggest removing the bearing circled in green? Should I order the $95 Tusk Bearing Remover, or is there another tool I should be looking at? 2. What about the "shell" bearing below it? I circled in red a little divet which I assumed is used for removal. Do you just stick a tiny punch or flat head screw driver in there and bend it out? 3. Lastly, the two screws circled in yellow (they are missing from this photo) are in there really tight, I assume thread locked. Do you use an impact screw driver to remove this, or do you heat it with a torch and unscrew, or both? Thanks
  11. engine is apart. what a mess! \
  12. this was a fun little hill, felt like a jungle
  13. You are probably right, the first commenter also brought that up. Definitely not reusing the fibers.
  14. I was hoping to hear from someone who experienced this too... I'd never heard of a clutch disc exploding like this. I always assumed the bike would boil over and seize a piston if the temperature got too high, but never a clutch disc disintegrating! Did the aluminum bits cause any damage to any other parts of the engine? I was thinking about replacing the crank seals although they are still fine... We'll see. In addition to the gaskets, what else do you recommend replacing? Ill get a new piston since I wanted to do that anyways, even though that looks to be in great condition too, judging from how it looks from the exhaust port. I don't have that many more pics and I left the bike at my parents house where there's space to work on it, but I took some videos, ill post later in the evening
  15. Of course I'm going to fix my precious baby, I'm not a savage! Would you part out this beauty? As far as the temperature, you are right, it was 250F, not C, I use a radiator cap with a temp gauge as seen in number 17 in the video above. As far as the plates the stock ones are alloy, but I'm going to order a steel one though.
  16. So the consensus is, there's no way to flush out all those bits without splitting the case? No magic formula, eh?
  17. ok! here you go: there's actually a first part to that video, but it focuses more on the wheel im building than the disc guard. Key findings are: positive: -solid feel -thick fin -direct fitment negative: -part of disc left exposed -color is weird neutral: -has some flex. don't now if that's good or bad
  18. Looking to get one of these for my 02 cr250, but no reviews on quality, craftsmanship or fitment.
  19. Today, and yesterday, I made progress building my a new 18" rear wheel, and installed a new rear disc guard after breaking a mounting tab off my old one! part 1: part 2:
  20. I think I'll be riding this bike off road a lot more than I had planned... at least for weekend camping trips on flowy trails! Gonna get a tubliss front and rear, and swap out that front tire for something more aggressive (originally planned to be a mostly street bike)
  21. some hill climbs which dont appear nearly as steep as they are
  22. replaced this tiny seal on my rear brake master cylinder that was causing the brake to slip. you can see in the picture on the top where the rubber has disintegrated a bit, causing the leak. had to buy a whole rebuild kit for $17 just to get that tiny rubber!