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apgamer

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About apgamer

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    TT Member

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    Maine
  1. Long story short, I've had a front end clunk in my 2002S for a while while braking hard or going over sharp bumps. I thought it was the suspension, thought it was the brakes, thought it was the wheel bearings so I ruled all those out. I then guessed the steering bearings, so I bought the bearing kit and tore it down this afternoon. Castle nut was loose. The bearings look to be greased and in good condition. Should I replace them with the new ones since they might be ovalized from knocking back and forth due to the slop? Did I do permanant damage to them running loose for so long? Can I just replace the bearings and leave the old races inside the headtube? (it's a pain to get them out and press new ones in) The old races don't look grooved or anything. Or should I just say screw it and grease the old bearing and put them back in with the properly tightened castle nut?
  2. apgamer

    Deteriorating Forks? Suggestions! PICS...

    Learned about this in my composites class. As was stated previously, carbon on aluminum is very bad mojo due to galvanic corrosion, along with some nice salt water to act as an electolyte. This is why there is usually a layer of S or E glass between aluminum and carbon when laying up a part. I would have thought the hard anodizing would have given some protection, but it was most likely worn away my the gaurd rubbing. Corrosion like that, on an aluminum part, increases the possibility of failure due to fatigue by a huge factor. Replace the fork and part out the old ones. (inner tubes ect.)
  3. apgamer

    400S fork oil capacity

    What is the approximate volume of oil needed to do both forks on a 2002S? I'm asking just so I know how much to buy, i'll set the fork level properly by measuring height. Hmmmmmm, and my manual is for 2000-2001 bike so I think the oil height is different for the 2002-up What's the oil height also? thanks for the help
  4. apgamer

    Need FCR experts opinion dispute from buyer

    I learned this lesson when I bought a used FCR. The AP diaphragm was shot, the bowl gasket leaked, all the jets were clogged. It wasn't the seller's fault. I knew I was buying a used FCR for $200 so I sucked it up, cleaned it up, and it runs great now. Sounds like you sold a carb to a newb who doesn't even know what what the air/fuel screw does and takes his carb to a dealer to clean it lol. I bet the thing had a minor air leak and the dealer ripped him off with the "worn slide" line
  5. apgamer

    Oil Check Without Starting Engine

    thanks for the help guys. The oil level was fine, I just get paranoid when I start it up for the first time after the winter. Went for an awesome 3 hour ride yesterday. So many bikes out since it was 65 degrees
  6. Bike's been sitting for the winter. It drips some oil all winter so I don't want to start it to do the normal oil check procedure without knowing there is at least a minimal amount of oil in it. How can I check to make sure there is enough oil to start it?
  7. apgamer

    Eddie Sisneros suspension work is awesome!

    Eddie, Can you explain what goes into your suspension rebuild? What sort of work are you doing inside the shim stack and pistons? Mid valve changes....ect. You seem to have a great price going on for this and I'm curious what we get for the price. I'll prob be sending mine out to you this winter
  8. please use new ones. I buggered mine up and then installed them again....when I went to take the kickstart kit off to sell it, even the impact driver didn't work and I had to drill them out
  9. apgamer

    what 320mm discs fit a drz

    Yamaha YZ rotors fit. I have a 320 mm motomaster on my DRZ currently
  10. apgamer

    smrookie to envade Washington

    envade = invade?
  11. I'm ditching the injection because I'm cleaning up the rear frame and getting rid of the oil tank. I would have to rejet even if I didn't get rid of the oil injection since I'm running pod filters
  12. I've thought about that But drilling jets is really inaccurate and the chances of my be able to drill two of them to the exact same size (two carbs) is slim
  13. yeah, those kits are all over ebay. Issue is that I need more jet options other then the stock size. I deleted the oil injection and I'm running premix and pod filters so I need to go up a couple sizes on the main. you cannot find larger main sizes
  14. Well, This is a little out of the ordinary for TT but I figured there's a lot of knowledge here so I'll give it a try. I just purchased a 1975 Yamaha RD125 two-stroke street bike. I'm cleaning it up and cafe' racering it. The issue is the carbs. It's a parallel twin so it has two 18mm TeiKei carbs. There is absolutely zero support for these and I cannot get larger jets or anything for them. I'm thinking of fabricating a two-into-one intake plenum and running a single, larger carburetor such as a 36mm off a YZ125 that I can actually get parts for. Anyone have any thoughts on why this wouldn't work? Can I just add the two smaller carb bores together and spec a carb that has that plenum size? It would make it so much easier to jet and run throttle cables for a single carb
  15. apgamer

    Valve Job

    I don't think porting does anything when it's only got a 440, FCR, cams, and exhaust. Think you need bigger valves and a stroker to do any good
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