• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Oldmossyspokes last won the day on July 13 2013

Oldmossyspokes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,504 Excellent

1 Follower

About Oldmossyspokes

  • Rank
    TT Gold Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    I like Adventure...Bikes or not. Time spent in the mountains is time not wasted.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,929 profile views
  1. Your welcome, I've done this a few times. Stay in touch
  2. You mentioned "A & B" riders and trails. This makes me think of tight trails at speed. Yes, use soft luggage but I wouldn't go with panniers because they'll get in the way when you need to pivot on a leg. They always say "load the bike low", but if you are an A or B rider the weight up higher behind you won't be an issue. Look to a "Giant Loop" type bag and an Enduro tank bag but keep it smallish. For cooking get a little Crux/Optimus type stove for boiling water (takes about a minute) and bring Mountain House meals (no clean up). They aren't everyday food but they are quick easy and taste pretty OK when you're hungry, quite filling. (the biscuits and gravy is the best breakfast, opinion) Also throw in a bunch of energy bars. A light sleeping bag and a set of thermal underwear doesn't take up much space and a self inflating bed roll is your best buddy. (roll them together to keep it tight). The first and foremost item is a good first aid kit (with burn cream) and some chemical ice packs plus an ace bandage (if you pack it you won't need it). Don't forget your favorite pain reliever and a small bottle of Gold Bond powder. (for changing out tubes and other things you might not think of until you need it). Extra gloves Extra goggles (take the spare goggles even if you're starting out with a face shield/visor) A small tarp (big enough to wrap around your sleeping bag) or a tent if you like; Hammocks are small and awesome if there are trees around Para cord and a knife Spork type eating tool Extra change of clothes and tennis shoes/hikers plus a light weight water proof wind breaker A few big contractor garbage bags and some gallon baggies (wet underwear and socks suck in the morning) Spare tubes and an inflator plus tire tools (if the bikes all have the same size tires a few tubes usually gets it done) if you don't have them, you might them... Tow strap (a few motorcycle tie down straps will work and they can be used to hold your stuff tight to the bike) One gas bottle for the Crux/Optimus stove will get you through three days just fine Water proof matches and a lighter A small handful of bike hardware and a bag of zip ties plus duct tape (assumes the bike has a tool kit...and is just insurance most of the time) Money & cell phone plus a credit card If fuel availability is sketchy put on a Rotopax can with a spare gallon of gas (will typically get you back to a road, minimum) Put the spout side opposite the muffler (typically requires a rear rack) Camel back and bottled water (four bottles per day away from a store) If you have room left a folding tripod stool is a game changer (small and light) Tactical Flashlight and a USB cell phone charger (Battery Tender makes a USB port adapter that plugs right onto a battery tender cord plug) Small, light, jumper cables (trust me on that one), (assumes the bikes are electric start) Maps and a compass (in case you break the cell phone) A GPS (Garmin, etc.) is a "nice to have" but totally unnecessary if you have an area map and compass This list is really fairly light and compact enough for a DS on trails. Don't try to ride trails loaded like my DRZ in the picture...that's a mountain road load.
  3. I have a bit of experience with bike packing, what might I help you with?
  4. Thank you kind sir. I have owned her for 17 years now and just went through it in the past 2 years. I got it for a song from the original owner whom hardly ever rode it. He is a friend of the family and let me ride on it when I was still in high school, before it had 100 miles on it. It had about 3000 miles on it when I got it and has 35,000 on it now. It has had anything made of rubber replaced as well as upgrades to the ignition, electrical, carbs, paint and a Vance and Hines 4 into 1 header, to mention a few items. Some how that stock seat has survived and is in perfect condition. We get a lot of looks rumbling at stop lights and screaming past people that drive along at around the speed limit. I've actually got into debates with youngsters at gas stations that wouldn't accept that it was made in 1982 after they asked what it was. From the era before the term "crotch rocket" referred to bikes wrapped in plastic. Anyways, she still purrs like a kitten, a kitten with an attitude.
  5. HOWEVER: Off Road this would be no comparison/no contest. Apples and Oranges all day. As soon as one needed more than 5" of ground clearance the road bike would be done as well as having a large dent in the header, that would be a shame.
  6. More on the topic of Why: Many times out riding our highway bikes we have come across that familiar sign stating something like this, "scenic overlook 2mi.". These tend to draw us in for curiosities sake and we find them hard to resist. Inevitably, just around the first corner it turns to gravel. We stop and debate whether or not we should continue but typically come to the agreement that the dust and mud will wash off, then press on. Most of the time this is at 10mph trying to be sure we don't flake out and drop a pretty bike on the gravel and mess up the paint and chrome. Often we have shared the thought "if we just had knobbies on these machines they would be fine for this type road". BUT, we aren't going to install knobbies on a road bike because the vast majority of the time spent riding them is purely and intentionally paved surface...that's what they are made for. Aggressive tires on a heavy bike are outstanding on gravel, just as we always assumed they would be. Instead of fumbling along at 10mph we can travel as fast as we desire and not even think about traction being a factor. And the mud and dust look right at home on an ADV...that's what they are designed for. Notice a trend here; for us? A few images from our recent past...this is what we do with our heavy bikes: Trivia time: my 1100 weighs about the same as my DCT...the 36 year old, somewhat modified, GS1100 would hand the DCT it's butt on a platter in a road race.
  7. As stated in the first post, we'll answer any questions asked, if we can. First, great looking CR250R! I used to ride an Elsinore CR250 in the early 80's. The tires on our AT's are MotoZ Tractionator ADV's, 90/90-21 (54T) on front and 150/70B-18 (70T) on back. These are tubeless tires installed with tubes because of the spoked rims, MotoZ recommends this application for spoked wheels. Our ages? Certainly, I'm 53 and my wife is 47, yet neither of us feels a day over 25. I'm not sure there is really an "age group" that finds the AT appealing; I believe it's more of a "use group". I desired to own an Interstate capable off road machine for many years leading up to the purchase of the AT, but I needed to wait until my wife had enough time off road to feel comfortable riding a beast like this off road, and money was a factor as well. My dream ADV for years was the BMW F800GS but when the AT came out I quickly gravitated toward it as I'm very familiar with Honda machines and have experienced low cost of ownership with all of them I've had. Also, having rode many different machines on the interstate I prefer 1000cc's over anything else. Less than 1 liter just doesn't do it for me for acceleration and sustained Interstate speeds. I've rode a whole gambit of 400's, 600's, 750's and even an GS850GL in the past, none of them were enjoyable to me holding the speed above 75mph for hours on end. Perhaps it could be useful information to know that I'm 6'-5" and weigh 232lbs. My wife is 6'-2" and doesn't weigh anywhere near what I weigh...she goes to the gym almost daily for a workout and doesn't eat bacon sprinkled doughnuts with me.
  8. Now any fair account of anything includes all aspects of reality. We have no desire to paint a pretty picture. I mentioned in my last post that our trails have some really challenging sections that are best avoided on a heavy machine or any machine when wet. What possessed me to try and ride this particular section is beyond reason, yet testing is testing, yes? This clay is the slickest "terra not so firma" that I've ever encountered anywhere. It is covered in alder leaves and looks pretty tame until a pack of bikes goes through it with leaves a flying. I have seen many wipeouts right here performed by excellent riders on machines of all colors and varieties. This time of year I need to shift my quad into four wheel drive to make it through here. I tried it anyway...because that's what trail riders do, right? If you take a good study of that image you'll notice the bike is still totally clean at that point...I dumped it as soon as front tire hit the clay, the back tire had not even got to it yet. Note how well those Tractionators clean themselves out...this is really sticky stuff here. This is the "why" of installing crash bars...the pretty bike is still pretty, no worries. Look at that shine...that would have totally sucked without protection installed. I found that it was easy to pick back up. I've been wondering about that and seriously, it was very comparable to picking up my DRZ...no problem. Once this thing goes off center riding on grease your done, no point in trying to right it. One thing I noted during this exercise is that the bike shut itself off after about two seconds of being on it's side...I had not read that anywhere yet. I'm pretty sure I didn't hit the kill switch but I was going for it when it shut down. Now, I did ride the rest of the way through there with my feet on the ground and it was pretty easy but I couldn't keep the back tire from spinning until I got back on the hard up around the corner. When I got done riding I hosed it off and went over it with a wash pad and it was as good as new again.
  9. I read on the internet somewhere that one can't ride an Africa Twin on trails. I assumed this came from someone that doesn't own an AT and likely hasn't rode one either. SO, that's exactly what I did today to form my own opinion. The DCT didn't blow up or anything but I think it did break a nail and got a paper cut. Here's some images. These trails are on our property in Washington State: I did learn that mud washes off an AT just the same as any other bike I own and one must keep it moving for best results. These are our Enduro practice trails and they are quite tight in many places...the challenging sections are not the kind of places I'm going to stop and take a picture for fear of getting stuck. BUT, I made it through everywhere I rode. I skipped a few sections that are difficult on my WR450F, no point in being stupid about it. It's a 500lb bike and it goes through trails like a 500lb bike, imagine that. Won't be my first choice when someone say's "lets go trail riding"...not what we got them for, but it can be done none the less. I rather liked it where the ground was tight and the roots aren't too big. It's hard to control the torque on squishy sod and mud. Too much power...shucksy darn.
  10. A point of clarity pertaining to DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission), what I like to characterize as Dual Clutch Technology: With DCT one has multiple shift/clutch mode options with one being entirely manual...i.e. the rider, not the computer, chooses which gear the bike will be in at any given moment or RPM. The base model has four automatic modes and one manual mode for the gears and two modes for the clutch. The default mode for the clutch provides some slip for butter soft shift transitions and a "hard and fast" mode, selected with the "G" button (on the dash), this limits the slip and bangs it right into the next gear without hesitation. The "G" button is sometimes characterized as the "Gravel" button. With the "G" button selected and the shift in "manual" the rider enjoys a transmission that transmits the torque instantly, almost like speed shifting a manual transmission, one can pop through the gears with the tire spun up, as long as the torque control is also lowered or off. The up shifts are done using the finger that you typically have wrapped around the clutch...no clutch lever; this finger is free and likes to have something to do. Yes, there is a learning curve but I caught on very quickly and really enjoy riding the DCT. If I had it to do all over again I would choose the DCT again. It's amazing technology that should not be discounted in myth, try it, you'll probably like it. Riding the bike in "D" mode is boring...don't let that be your test ride. In "D" mode the bike will be in top gear by 35mph if you don't grab a bunch of throttle...it will short shift it's self, only delivering a modest amount of torque and saving gas money. I favor Sport mode "II" (2), it selects the shift point where I would, most of the time. If you desire it to take off like a rocket and hold each gear to a maximum speed, sport mode "I" (1) is for that. Sport mode "III" (3) is far better than "D" for casual riding in my opinion. Best part is no matter what mode your in, even manual shift, the bike will down shift for you if you let it...it's really cool! BUT, one can always shift manually, up or down, no matter what mode the bike is in and manual selections are exercised immediately upon request, it's not like an automatic transmission in a car, far from it. It's not an automatic transmission at all, it's a manual transmission with two clutches; it can clutch and shift on it's own and it does it with precision and intent. If one desires to fry the tire, this is not an issue, it does it quite well. No need to let off the throttle to shift, it can all be done at full throttle if desired, but be careful, if your not mindful of the speed it'll be going over 100mph long before you reach the end of the on ramp.
  11. 1100GSE, 1100 Multistrada, CBR1100XX? GS1100GL, 1982 Suzuki shafter. Really fast all the way to 132, where it hits the red line...just when it starts getting fun
  12. I'm only concerned with the bees at speed, I run a little thumb nail on my 1100 and it works great in that regard. Besides the shield, it's a totally naked bike.
  13. 98mph Nice! If you liked that shield @ 98mph, I gotta try it out
  14. I haven't decided which one to go with yet, I did not like the stocker above 60mph, I'm too tall and the wind hits me just about shoulder height...I dislike getting hit in the neck by bee's. How fast have you rode with it?
  15. Whoa, hey their partner: I wasn't disrespecting our beloved CRF250L, we ride our '13 all over the place...it needs no defense as it holds it own. I was only commenting that in my opinion if you plan to do $2500.00 worth of mods to a 230L one could save some mod work time and just change the tires to knobbies on a DRZ and go...that's all. We like to leave bikes pretty much stock if we can...especially the engines. To each their own. And yes, the bone stock DRZ400S has way more "Getty-Up" and go than the 250L, it better, it has 150 more cc's... I've seen far above 80 mph on our DRZ. Cheers